Tracksaw Question

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I have a Festool tracksaw (TS55 with a 55" rail). I have noticed that it doesn't actually cut perfectly straight. I can use it to cut a "straight line" and a straight edge will rock on the cut edge and the cut edge will rock against my tablesaw fence. I have heard of people using a tracksaw in place of a jointer for glue ups. I don't see how this can be done with the cuts that I am getting. I called Festool and they sent me out a replacement 55" guide rail (good customer service), but I still have the same problem. Anyone else experience the same issue or have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[zapdafish]

when the saw is on the track is there any horizontal play? there should be none. If there is, there are knobs to tighten it till the saw can barely move along the track and then ease up just a tad till it slides freely but with no play in it.

that question comes up from time to time over here.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/


also if the track overhangs the wood by alot, that could cause problems too as there isn't any friction to hold the track in place.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I tried to tighten the saw in the track. It didn't seem to help. I even tried tightening it to the point that it was hard to push the saw. I'll check out the link. I have tried clamping the track in place and not clamping it in place. It doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[KenOfCary]

Wow, I am really surprised that you're having any problem with the Festool Track Saw tracking perfectly. I get perfect cross-cuts and perfect cuts in plywood with it.

How old is your blade. I found that mine was beginning to dull a good bit - after much use. I particularly noticed it doing Rip Cuts. I bought a Freud replacement Rip/Cross-cut blade and will send the original off to be sharpened. Can't tell from your description if a worn blade could be a problem, but I'm sure in my case that it was.

I always clamp at least one end of the track in place using the Festool track clamps. Both ends for critical cuts.

I'd really like to know what your ultimate solution to this problem turns out to be. You pay extra to Festool not to have these kind of problems.

 

[Chuck N]

I've had good experience with the Festool T55 REQ on the MFT/3 table and without the table making accurate cuts using the track. When I'm not using the table I use clamps to secure the track. I've even combined two 55" rails for long plywood cuts with good results, again using clamps to secure the track. Perhaps you should give Festool, or the selling dealer, a call.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

Have you put a good straight edge against the piece that you cut with the track saw to verify that it is straight?

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I've had good experience with the Festool T55 REQ on the MFT/3 table and without the table making accurate cuts using the track. When I'm not using the table I use clamps to secure the track. I've even combined two 55" rails for long plywood cuts with good results, again using clamps to secure the track. Perhaps you should give Festool, or the selling dealer, a call.

I called Festool when I first noticed the issue. It seemed like original track wasn't straight, so after owning the tool for 1.5+ years, they sent me out a replacement 55" track free of charge. The customer service was very good in that respect. The problem is that I am getting the same results with the replacement track. I can make cuts with both of them and the new one seems a bit better, but a straight edge on the cut edge still shows that the center section of the cut is proud creating a crown that the straight edge rocks on.

 

[Chuck N]

I called Festool when I first noticed the issue. It seemed like original track wasn't straight, so after owning the tool for 1.5+ years, they sent me out a replacement 55" track free of charge. The customer service was very good in that respect. The problem is that I am getting the same results with the replacement track. I can make cuts with both of them and the new one seems a bit better, but a straight edge on the cut edge still shows that the center section of the cut is proud creating a crown that the straight edge rocks on.

Interesting problem. I wish I had the knowledge and experience to suggest what might be causing it.

 

[bluedawg76]

I called Festool when I first noticed the issue. It seemed like original track wasn't straight, so after owning the tool for 1.5+ years, they sent me out a replacement 55" track free of charge. The customer service was very good in that respect. The problem is that I am getting the same results with the replacement track. I can make cuts with both of them and the new one seems a bit better, but a straight edge on the cut edge still shows that the center section of the cut is proud creating a crown that the straight edge rocks on.

seems like a straightedge ought to identify the problem. is the track bowed? how bout when you clamp the track, is it bowed? if not, sounds like the blade is deflecting slightly. can you see a portion protruding after the cut?

 

[Berta]

You can adjust it so that the blade only protrudes a little past the wood. This gives the best cut. It could be you have it all the way like a regular circle saw.

 

[FredP]

cut 2 pieces with the track saw. turn one 180* and see how they fit. The strait edge may not be as strait as you think? you can also check the strait edge with a piece of dental floss stretched from end to end. shim each end equally and measure in the middle with feeler gauges . should be exactly the same all the way down. you can check the track using the same method. if all check out then it's most likely the blade.

 

[KenOfCary]

I too am beginning to suspect your straight edge. Is it the constant in the equation? In other words, you've tried two tracks now. Have you tried two straight edges?

Fred's suggestions are very good to rule out the various variables.

Any possibility that the cutting surface is the problem? Are you using an old piece of foam for instance that could be a little used up. I need to get myself some fresh foam pieces as mine are getting pretty ragged.

Your blade is sharp and tightly mounted?

I have also joined two 55" tracks together to cut full length pieces of plywood or rip 8' boards in the barn while rebuilding the stalls. That is even super stable and parallel (as long as you use both extension rods to join them.) Digression: I always wondered when it takes two of them to join the tracks why they are sold in one-packs. End Digression.

 

[campbellcraft]

If you can come to my shop we can swap saws, tracks and blades. Should be able to figure out where the problem is.

Bob C.

 

[KenOfCary]

Jeremy, bottom line is with what you've invested in a Festool system, you should not accept anything but perfection. It is good to know that they're standing behind their product and willing to work with you.

Persevere and get this issue resolved whatever it takes. You have our support.

 

[chris_goris]

55" isnt that long, can you lay across corner on something you know is flat like the top of your tablesaaw?

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I don't believe the straight edge is the issue. The straightedge sits flat against all my cast iron surfaces and sits flat against a board off of my jointer. I also get the same result (straight edge rocks) when testing the tracksaw crosscut with different straight edges. Bob, I must might take you up on your offer. It looks like you are only about 40 minutes away from me and a bit closer to my work.

Bob/Ken,
Have either of you ever put a straight edge and a critical eye against your cut edge using your tracksaws?

 

[KenOfCary]

Bob/Ken,
Have either of you ever put a straight edge and a critical eye against your cut edge using your tracksaws?

Haven't actually done that but haven't had any reason to suspect a problem. I am planning on doing that the next time I use the track and saw though.

 

[gdoebs]

I have the 8' rail and noticed it wasn't cutting straight. The ends were wider than the middle of the cut. I think the track was slightly bent. I just applied a little pressure (a few light taps with a dead blow) to the middle with the ends clamped down. Straighten it right out. I also noticed if during a cut you apply lateral force to the saw, you can flex the track just barley. I always make sure I don't apply any lateral force when ripping.

Oh, if you want to compare saws and tracks sometime, I'm in Greensboro near the airport.

 

[redknife]

Jeremy- this must be frustrating. I checked recent pieces cut with the TS75 and 55" track- they sit flush on my table saw, although length is < 24". I also checked some of the longer isolated cut marks in my mft/3 as well as Styrofoam and they are dead on straight. I checked the track on the 1080 track as well as the track on my 1400 and 1900 tracks and the aluminum track is dead on visually with a good straight edge. I have joined wood edges before using the longer tracks and did not have visual gaps.

Anyway, my considerations would be (some redundancy from above):
1) Is the current extruded aluminum track verified as straight?
2) Is the splinter guard edge straight as a marker of the delivered cut? (may be affected by aberrant on and off)
3) Is the wood to track interface stable?
4) Saw adjusted to track per instructions without play?
5) Is there any torquing on the rail when setting second side (more likely to affect longer rails)? (i.e. is the extruded aluminum straight after clamping)
6) Is there any torquing during cut?
7) Is there internal stress in the wood? (i.e. have you assessed a cut using MDF or similar stale product)

Past there I'm perplexed and would be at the mercy of Festool helping. I do think the system has the capacity to cut straighter than you are experiencing.

Chris

 

[campbellcraft]

I did check 8' cuts on a kitchen build 4 years ago which included a 5'x9' island (my Wife loves me). Cuts were right on. If you decide to stop by I'm retired and have a very flex able schedule.