Tapering table legs on bench jointer

[rusty]

Have a 8" cutech bench jointer, carbide teeth, and works very well.
Working on a table with 3 1/2" square legs 29" long, and want to taper two sides down to 2" at bottom of feet.
Taper will start 7" from top of leg. watched a couple of utube videos already.
looking for more info before I start. any ideas

 

[Dave Richards]

Maybe this: Tapering at the Jointer - FineWoodworking

 

[FredP]

I taper legs on the table saw with a shop built jig then clean up with the jointer.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I doubt you have sufficient infeed/outfeed table length on which to mount stops, but you might try it freehand on scrap. But like Fred says, it's such an easy, one pass effort with a tapering jig on the tablesaw. Use a jig like these:

 

[rusty]

Tapering a 3 1/2" square leg on a 10" craftsman table saw is iffy in my opinion. I normally taper flat stock with a taper jig on my TS if it is not too thick. just looking for alternatives.

 

[Dave Richards]

Another alternative would be to do the tapering with a sled and your planer. You can rough out the legs at the bandsaw and finish them at the planer. A benefit to doing this is you can do at least two if not three or four legs at once depending on the width of your planer.

 

[FredP]

Didn't catch the 3 1/2" thickness. Bandsaw would be my next choice. Same jig

 

[Joe Scharle]

Well next then I'd attach a long fence to the jointer and clamp on a stop. I've this method when I only had a Shopsmith.

 

[TENdriver]

Rusty,

for me, removing 1.5” of material on the jointer is a stretch. I agree with Dave, that removing the waste with a bandsaw is preferable, though I probably would use the tablesaw in two passes from opposing sides.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I taper legs on the table saw with a shop built jig then clean up with the jointer.

Same here.

 

[Oka]

Agree with Tendriver, remove most of the waste get within 18-1/4 then finish off with joiner, faster easier and you will more predictable results.

Rusty,

for me, removing 1.5” of material on the jointer is a stretch. I agree with Dave, that removing the waste with a bandsaw is preferable, though I probably would use the tablesaw in two passes from opposing sides.

 

[Chris C]

 

[rusty]

Don't have a bandsaw, and that humungas hand plane hurts my whole body just looking at it....
Time for a new toy, bench bandsaw with a decent fence should do it, I can make a taper jig for it.
Any suggestions?

 

[Dave Richards]

I can make a taper jig for it.
Any suggestions?

Simple one. A piece of 1/4" Masonite or MDF a little longer than the legs. Glue or screw blocks to it to hold the leg at the right angle. Use the rip fence as a guide. I could make a drawing for you if you need it.

 

[rusty]

that will make a nice taper jig.
What is a decent benchtop bandsaw that has a good fence?

 

[Dave Richards]

I guess I can't recommend a benchtop bandsaw. I haven't looked at them for years. Whichever one you choose, make sure you get an appropriate blade for the task. Don't get one with a lot of teeth per inch at least for cutting these legs.

 

[Chris C]

Don't have a bandsaw, and that humungas hand plane hurts my whole body just looking at it....
Time for a new toy, bench bandsaw with a decent fence should do it, I can make a taper jig for it.
Any suggestions?

You'd be amazed at how easy that big plane is to use. Mike Davis is holding a class in April on the most important hand plane skill of all.....sharpening. It makes all the difference.