I bought a portable table saw because I don't have too much room and pretty much because I was hoping to get away with being cheap. It's nothing fancy. It's a Ryobi 10" table saw. I can't seem to get a clean cut from it. I have even tried using the Freud ripping blade. I still get the teeth marks, I think you call it chatter or something like that. Can somebody point me in the right direction? I was always under the impression that you can get a nice clean cut given that you use a rip blade. Thanks.
table saw question
- Thread starter OriginalChong
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Is your fence flexing? That would be my first question given your saw.
Try adjusting your fence so that it is a bit tighter and alo check your fence alignment. That worked for me. Oh, and a decent aftermarket splitter will do wonders as well. They're cheap! I got this one and it works great ... http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10889&filter=splitter
Are you getting the teeth marks on all rip cuts with all wood in all thickness? Or just certain woods, or thickness. It could be that the saw might be underpowered for the cut that you're making. Or possibly you could have some play in the arbor. Take a combo square and set it in the miter slot and extend it to touch one tooth on the front of the blade. Then check that tooth at the back of the blade and see if there is any difference. This would be better determined with a dial indicator, but you might be able to detect if the blade isn't running true with the combo square.
HTH, Dave
HTH, Dave
Well, I use a engineering square to make sure it's the same distance at the front end of the fence and the backend of the fence. How accurate does it have to be?
Are you getting the teeth marks on all rip cuts with all wood in all thickness? Or just certain woods, or thickness. It could be that the saw might be underpowered for the cut that you're making. Or possibly you could have some play in the arbor. Take a combo square and set it in the miter slot and extend it to touch one tooth on the front of the blade. Then check that tooth at the back of the blade and see if there is any difference. This would be better determined with a dial indicator, but you might be able to detect if the blade isn't running true with the combo square.
HTH, Dave
This could be, I was ripping 1.5" oak.
I think that what Chris might be referring to is if the fence is moving a bit during the cut while you are applying pressure to it it with the stock. Your fence should be and remain absolutely parallel to the blade. Some folks like to have a slight (thousands of an inch) greater than parallel at the back of the fence, but dead on is best in IMO.
Does you fence have one point of attachment or two? If it has one, at the front rail of the saw you could use a clamp on the rear to make sure that you aren't having any flex as the stock travels through the cut.
You could probably test this theory out by locking down your fence and pulling on it from the right side and seeing if you get any movement :eusa_thin
Dave
Does you fence have one point of attachment or two? If it has one, at the front rail of the saw you could use a clamp on the rear to make sure that you aren't having any flex as the stock travels through the cut.
You could probably test this theory out by locking down your fence and pulling on it from the right side and seeing if you get any movement :eusa_thin
Dave
That's a pretty heavy rip for a small saw. If you aren't having any issues with 3/4" thick stock, then just chalk it up a little more than your saw could handle.
You also could have had some poorly dried wood or reaction wood. Oak is hard to dry, and 6-8/4 stock is even more difficult to dry properly. If you were getting a little movement from the wood during the cut it could be pushing into the blade and leaving the teeth marks.
Dave
I agree with above recommendations.
I am assuming that this happening on edge jointed, milled stock (S3S)? Blade marks are unavoidable if you are ripping rough stock for dimensioning...too many variables.
Also, do a cut removing just a small bit of the edge. i.e., set fence at 4 inches wide, rip, then set fence for 3 15/16 and rip. If the kerf is closing on the cut due to internal grain stress relief, it could be creating tooth marks/burning. The wood will not move appreciably on such a small cut.
If this problem is due to a fence alignment issue then the marks should tell which side of the blade is causing the problem, since the rear part of the blade is passing UP through the stock on a radiused curve and the front of the blade is passing DOWN on a radiused curve. The blade marks will tell the story.
The only other thing that comes quickly to mind is arbor/blade runout. You can check this with a dial indicator after you've verified alignment.
My Freud glue line rip blade (if that's the one you are using) will leave an impression on the wood but it is not a radiused curve such as you would see if the fence or a tooth is misaligned. I don't remember the exact impression, seems like it is sort of a waffle pattern. The pattern is very faint - not a deep swirl at all. However, the glue line rip blade will provide an edge that will in fact make a completely seamless glue joint. It just needs to be cleaned up if the edge is visible.
If that pattern isn't normal for a Freud Glue Line Rip blade then I got a bum one. :lol:
Hopefully it's just a fence alignment issue and will go away once corrected.
Chuck
I am assuming that this happening on edge jointed, milled stock (S3S)? Blade marks are unavoidable if you are ripping rough stock for dimensioning...too many variables.
Also, do a cut removing just a small bit of the edge. i.e., set fence at 4 inches wide, rip, then set fence for 3 15/16 and rip. If the kerf is closing on the cut due to internal grain stress relief, it could be creating tooth marks/burning. The wood will not move appreciably on such a small cut.
If this problem is due to a fence alignment issue then the marks should tell which side of the blade is causing the problem, since the rear part of the blade is passing UP through the stock on a radiused curve and the front of the blade is passing DOWN on a radiused curve. The blade marks will tell the story.
The only other thing that comes quickly to mind is arbor/blade runout. You can check this with a dial indicator after you've verified alignment.
My Freud glue line rip blade (if that's the one you are using) will leave an impression on the wood but it is not a radiused curve such as you would see if the fence or a tooth is misaligned. I don't remember the exact impression, seems like it is sort of a waffle pattern. The pattern is very faint - not a deep swirl at all. However, the glue line rip blade will provide an edge that will in fact make a completely seamless glue joint. It just needs to be cleaned up if the edge is visible.
If that pattern isn't normal for a Freud Glue Line Rip blade then I got a bum one. :lol:
Hopefully it's just a fence alignment issue and will go away once corrected.
Chuck
You got it DaveO.
I had the identical saw with the Delta badging and was never satisfied with the inherent flexibility of the fence. Sounds like a great excuse to upgrade saws!:lol:
If this problem is due to a fence alignment issue then the marks should tell which side of the blade is causing the problem, since the rear part of the blade is passing UP through the stock on a radiused curve and the front of the blade is passing DOWN on a radiused curve. The blade marks will tell the story.
Chuck
Dang, you learn something new everyday! Thanks! :eusa_clap
You also want to check to see if your pulleys are aligned and belt is tight (if it is belt drive) and that your arbor is pretty stable.
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