Table saw help

[slowhike]

some years ago I became the owner of a used, 3 hp Grizzly table saw.
I have not used it on a regular basis.
I can't actually call myself a wood worker, though I love to learn about it by reading and watching videos.

The table saw had been making a bit of a dragging noise for a while but I neglected to get to the bottom of it. The noise it made while running. While I was recently I was making a few small things to help in the shop... a holder for two cordless drills and some accessories, a charging station and a rest for my random orbit sander, the noise increased and them the blade locked up.

Next day, I took the table off and gave it a much needed cleaning.
If I very briefly bumped the switch on then off, it would try to turn but only go maybe a quarter of an inch.
Someone suggested spraying the shaft at the bearings with penetrating oil.
After I did that and waited a while, I flipped the switch and it turned again but with a noise that shouldn't be there.

So now I'm wondering if it might be bearings that will need replacing.
I managed to find a way to load a short video on FB but it will not allow the FB link here.
I'll try to find a way to load the video (with sound) but then again, you may not need it.

From the pics you can see rust. It has sit for a number of years in a shop that is not fully enclosed, no heat or air.
I have a tube of White Lighting lube to use after it is back in running shape.

 

[slowhike]

Thank you for any help you can give.

 

[marinosr]

What happens if you remove the belt and try to start the motor?
Does the motor shaft spin freely by hand with no belt on? Does the arbor shaft spin freely with no belt on?

It sounds like new bearings are in order, either on your arbor shaft, motor or both. Hopefully there's no damage to the bearing contact surfaces.

Edited after reading your post better.

 

[Mike Davis]

I let mine get that bad, it sat in a barn for two years on soft dirt.

I had to take it completely apart, clean and dearest every part, repainted a few pieces, put it all back together, adjusted the blade to table alignment, adjusted the rip fence.

It works like a charm now, just checked square of a piece I cut Sunday and it is perfect.

It's been 12 years since the last time I adjusted it. I guess I got it right. Since then I have rebuilt a couple other peoples saws and adjusted several dozen.

So, your saw can be like new again, it will take some work. Starting with the bearings. I would go ahead and order a set from Grizzly or match the numbers with a better quality brand. Then clean all that rust and start putting it back together.

I live about 30 minutes North of Winston-Salem. If I can help let me know.

 

[slowhike]

Do you hear any electical hum when you turn on the motor?
What happens if you remove the belt and try to start the motor?
Does the motor shaft spin freely by hand with no belt on? Does the arbor shaft spin freely with no belt on?

It could be a seized bearing, but a seized bearing can cause worse secondary problems, such as burning out your motor windings.

I guess I need to take the 3 belts loose and try those things.
I don't see just how to remove the belts, other than loosing the bolt/ slide that keeps tension on the motor and belts.
Thank you.

 

[slowhike]

I let mine get that bad, it sat in a barn for two years on soft dirt.

I had to take it completely apart, clean and dearest every part, repainted a few pieces, put it all back together, adjusted the blade to table alignment, adjusted the rip fence.

It works like a charm now, just checked square of a piece I cut Sunday and it is perfect.

It's been 12 years since the last time I adjusted it. I guess I got it right. Since then I have rebuilt a couple other peoples saws and adjusted several dozen.

So, your saw can be like new again, it will take some work. Starting with the bearings. I would go ahead and order a set from Grizzly or match the numbers with a better quality brand. Then clean all that rust and start putting it back together.

I live about 30 minutes North of Winston-Salem. If I can help let me know.

Thanks. I'll try removing the belts first to see exactly were the issues are.

 

[marinosr]

I guess I need to take the 3 belts loose and try those things.
I don't see just how to remove the belts, other than loosing the bolt/ slide that keeps tension on the motor and belts.
Thank you.

That's how you do it.

 

[Mike Davis]

I guess I need to take the 3 belts loose and try those things.
I don't see just how to remove the belts, other than loosing the bolt/ slide that keeps tension on the motor and belts.
Thank you.

Yes, that is how it works.

 

[slowhike]

Mike Davis, I'll give you a fuller picture of my situation.
Because of health problems, etc, I have only worked part time for a while.
Health wise, things are going better but my financial situation has gotten desperate.

Though it's not exactly what I want to do, I'm hoping to get the table saw in good working order, along with an old Delta/ Rockler band saw (came from a school) and sell them.
I can get by with out them until I can do better but catching up my mortage is first priority now.
Looking for full time work now but will be struggling to keep my head above water for a while.

If by chance you were down this way sometime (Midway, between W-S and Lexington) it would be great to have someone like yourself give the saws a look in person.

 

[bob vaughan]

Maybe these will help.

https://ncwoodworker.net/forums/ind...saw-motor-problem-2-update.67740/#post-630141

https://ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-start-capacitor.31922/#post-314609

 

[slowhike]

I loosened the bolt holding the motor tight, pulled the motor up as far as it would go and retightened the bolt.
There is still not much looseness in the belts but I got the first one off.
You can see it hanging on the motor below.
you can see I worked the middle belt over to the first top pulley. To tight to bring any further so my thinking is to move the bottom over to the first pully so I can take the top off.
Repeat with the third belt.
I'm guessing that letting them hang loose on the motor while I test the motor and pulley bearings with out the belts should be fine.

 

[FredP]

don't know much about grizzly but on my saw to loosen the belts I raise the blade all the way up, then cut a stick to fit under the motor to the saw base. then lower the blade. the stick holds the motor up and the belts loosen. now put a stick to your ear and against the arbor. spin the arbor by hand. if you hear a clicking sound get new bearings. do same with the motor.

 

[slowhike]

I got the belts off the way I described above.
Did a video but still don't know how to share it here. Anyway, the motor seams to run fine but as it's winding down, there is a little extra sound, not sure it's anything to be concerned about for now.
But the main thing, after it stopped, I tried rolling the pullies. They turn rough.
I'll contact Grizzly to find out about the pullies.

 

[slowhike]

Someone suggested I try lubing the bearings and try that.
I have my doubts that would be enough. I wish I could add the video so the pullies could be seen as I spin them and they quickly come to a stop.
If anyone uses face book, I did learn how to send the video in a message.

 

[bob vaughan]

Sounds like there's a need for a couple of 6203LL bearings in the main shaft. May need some bearings in the motor also, but I don't know that size. Probably a 6204LL and 6203LL.

 

[slowhike]

Sounds like there's a need for a couple of 6203LL bearings in the main shaft. May need some bearings in the motor also, but I don't know that size. Probably a 6204LL and 6203LL.

Thank you.
I'll be looking into that.

 

[Rwe2156]

That motor noise is probably the centrifugal brake.

 

[marinosr]

Someone suggested I try lubing the bearings and try that.
I have my doubts that would be enough. I wish I could add the video so the pullies could be seen as I spin them and they quickly come to a stop.
If anyone uses face book, I did learn how to send the video in a message.

If your bearings were seized before applying penetrating oil, simply packing new grease in the bearings isn't going to cut it. You'll need to remove the bearings, take off the seals, clean out all the crud that allowed the bearings to seize in the first place, inspect VERY thoroughly for any wear to the races, balls, or cages, repack with grease, and reassemble. Damage to the bearing surfaces is likely if the bearings are seized, though, and need to be replaced if that is the case.

Do yourself a favor and just replace the bearings. You can buy a pack of four cheap chinese 6203-2rs bearings on Amazon for $8. I wouldn't put those in production environment saw, but for a hobbyist saw with a light duty cycle they will be fine. Auto Zone will loan you a bearing puller for free. To install the new bearings you can either heat them at 200F in a toaster oven for a drop-on fit, or drive them (carefully!) onto the shaft using a wood block with a hole just slightly larger than the shaft, so that the force is applied on the inner race.

 

[Roy G]

Richard, to warm up bearings for installation, I have carefully saved some incandescent light bulbs. Put the bearing on the bulb, turn it on, wait a few minutes and install the bearing.

Roy G

 

[Mike Davis]

I saw somebody on tube put bearings in a microwave for 30 seconds.