Straight edge for breadboard ends

[DSWalker]

I made a tabletop that is 3' x 4' and need to add breadboard ends. The piece is too big to manage on the tablesaw.

No track saw. Using a jointed board to run the Skill saw along, but each end cut has small deviations leaving a gap. It is small, but it is there.

Any suggestions to help get a good clean cross cut on the ends?

 

[Echd]

If you have a jointed board, is a router with a flush trim bit an option?

 

[Dean]

I used a clamp on straight edge and router

 

[Gofor]

Ditto the router using a straight edge. The straight edge needs to extend past both ends of the cut. (same when using it with the Skil-Saw). Using sacrifical boards for the tool to ride on at the beginning and end of the cut will help to keep the skil-saw/router from dipping or weaving when starting and finishing the cut. If you have a shoulder plane, you could clean up the first cut.

If you clean up the cut on the top, you most likely will have to clean up the bottom also to provide enough depth for the end to mate up flush with the table top. The bottom side can be a bit over-deep as the gap will not show. I usually make the bottom cut a hair deeper to ensure the top fits tight.

Lacking a router, using some sand paper glued to a board can be used to work down the high spots. However, from what you describe, there will be much more "high" spot than low, so it will be labor intensive.

 

[Rwe2156]

Use a downcut spiral bit for best result. HIghest speed and go slooooowwww.

 

[BKHam]

do you have a shoulder plane? you could straighten that way. Also, remember this with breadboards.....if it looks right, it is right.

I've had my underside shoulder but a little more relieved (small gap) just so the top side shoulder was dead tight.