Stile & Rail Sets

[Steve W]

I'm thinking about making a new front door for my house, since the one I have is one of those bland metal ones that disfigure 99% of all houses built after 1975.:wmad:

I see that Freud has a S & R set where you can take off the top of the rail bit to form extended tenons. Like so:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/FS99-302/Freud-Interior-Exterior-Door-Router-Bit-Sets

Anyone here ever use one of these sets? What's your opinion of doing it this way as opposed to using loose tenons?

I am not considering a shaper. Too heavy for my shed-shop and too much denero.

Thanks in advance O wise ones!

:kermit: Steve

 

[nelsone]

All of the Freud bits I've used have worked quite well. Never tried that set though. If you get it, let us know how it works.

Norm made an entry door a few episodes back. As I recall, he cut a dado for the panels and used molding around the panels. It's an episode I wish I had a means to record, I'd like to have it.

Good Luck!

 

[Trent Mason]

I've never used those and have minimal experience with the router. I've always wondered how it was done though. Hopefully someone will give you some good feedback and if so, I can't wait to see how it turns out. :eusa_clap

Trent

 

[Gofor]

Haven't tried that bit. Only tip I have is one I saw on Ask This Old House:

In the dado for the panels, use full strips of foam weatherproofing strip instead of "space balls" to allow panel expansion/contraction while still weatherproofing the door against cold drafts or A/C/heat loss. Sounded good but haven't had opportunity to try it yet.

Please let us know how it works altho I'm still looking for an alternative to using forstner bit/chisels on deep mortises (don't so enough to warrant a dedicated mortiser) which this bit won't solve.

Go

 

[Charles M]

Steve,

I am biased of course so will refrain from giving an opinion. However, if you will PM or email me I will happily send you a pdf file of the instructions we include with those bits.

 

[dino drosas]

Steve,

I have also been thinking about that same bit set after seeing it at Woodcraft along with a sample of the finished product. They have a cut sheet showing the set in use with step by step pictures from start to finish. It appears to do a great job and the fit is dead on. I have always used floating tennons on any doors I have made including the one pictured. This is the front door to my house made from reclaimed heart pine. All the stiles and rails were milled square. The mortises were cut with a horizonal mortiser and the tennons cut on the table saw. The raised panels and the glass panes are all held in place with applied moulding. The mouldings stand proud of the door by 1/4" thus making the overall thickness 2 1/2". I trimmed the casings with the same moulding using it as a backband

 

[Turtlewood]

I bought the Freud 99-268 2 Piece Entry & Interior Door set on Amazon awhile ago, but have not had a chance to use it yet. But then again, that's the case for a lot of stuff I've acquired.

It doesn't have the panel cutter, but I can use some of my other bits for that.

Don't forget that Amazon right now has 25% off Freud right now. So best to check them if you do buy a set soon.

-Kevin

 

[Steve W]

Dino, that's a great-looking door and is one of the designs that I'm considering. Alternatively, I'm thinking of one large window using either stained glass or a combination of stained and clear.

One of my favorite designs for years has been a perimeter of small stained glass rectangles with a large, clear piece in the center (found on lots of c. 1870s houses).

I'm also thinking of adding sidelights, so this mission certainly has room to creep!:elvis:

Thanks, all, for the comments so far!

:kermit: Steve

 

[cpowell]

I've used floating/loose tenons on large panels. I think that bit set would really have helped me save a lot of time. I don't have a horizontal mortiser and made the rail mortises on the router table with a jig. Big pain.

I don't know that I would even use the rail end cutter with the top on. I would probably cut the waste away on the TS and BS leaving a slightly oversized tenon then make a succession of light passes with the bit to form the finished tenon and end profile.

If you buy it then please post your findings.


Chuck