Stabilizing an old workbench

[danceswithwindows]

We recently moved into my wifes original home, and I have been experiencing both the blessing and curse of taking your entire workshop apart and setting it up again in a new space (more space, but also more disjointed - really excited to have a dedicated space though).

Attached are some photographs of a workbench that has been in her family for at least 3 generations. I will be incorporating it into my new layout. It will not be my primary "woodworking" bench where I will be using handplanes etc., but I envision it seeing a lot of use as a secondary bench for the myriad of general things that pop up, as a secondary bench to keep the woodworking bench clear and perhaps as a sharpening station.

The bench is constructed of 2x4 and 2x6 lumber, and the top is made out of 2x8's . Some 3/8 slat material is used on the backs and sides The bench appears to be nailed together, with some carriage bolts utilized where the corners of the bench structure meet. The top is supported by 2x4's running perpendicular about every 2 feet. Again, the top is nailed down.

I am looking to solve a few problems:

1. The bench is quite sturdy in the long direction, but very wobbly in the short direction. I imagine the nails have loosened up over years of use, and the lack of any proper joinery obviously doesn't help. Not sure how to stiffen it up without some fairly major surgery. A sheet of pywood along the back would help in the long direction, but I dont really want to just screw a sheet of ply to both sides of it.
2. There are large gaps between the 2x8s on top which are frustrating, and the boards are cupped some such that it is not anywhere near flat. I was planning to remove the top, remove any metal/nails stuck in there, joint the edges (via handplane) then glue up the top and get it a bit flatter, again by hand. Not aiming for perfection, just more usability.

Any thoughts or ideas on these approaches are much appreciated. I will submit some progress photos as I go.

 

[pop-pop]

1. The bench is quite sturdy in the long direction, but very wobbly in the short direction.

Think triangles. Fit a diagonal brace as tightly as you can. Maybe screw the siding to the brace also?

 

[Rwe2156]

A corner brace or even a sheet of ply on the inside will firm it up. Still I'd add some screws everywhere there's a lap joint.

It's a utilitarian bench, whether to resurface the top is up to you. I'd carefully check for nails and screws first!!

 

[Martin Roper]

I would remove all those boards on the ends (pic 7) and replace them with two sheets of plywood. If the bench is steady along the length of it, a single diagonal internal brace screwed to each of the boards would really strengthen it.

As for that top I'd pull it off and scrap it. Trying to denail it then plane it down to anywhere near flat would be a giant PITB. I would just get some kiln-dried SYP 2x6s, and joint and glue them. You could probably buy what you need for less than $40.

A while back I made a top for a shop cabinet by gluing oak flooring remnants onto 3/4" plywood. I trimmed out the edges with some scrap oak strips.

 

[danceswithwindows]

I would remove all those boards on the ends (pic 7) and replace them with two sheets of plywood. If the bench is steady along the length of it, a single diagonal internal brace screwed to each of the boards would really strengthen it.

As for that top I'd pull it off and scrap it. Trying to denail it then plane it down to anywhere near flat would be a giant PITB. I would just get some kiln-dried SYP 2x6s, and joint and glue them. You could probably buy what you need for less than $40.

A while back I made a top for a shop cabinet by gluing oak flooring remnants onto 3/4" plywood. I trimmed out the edges with some scrap oak strips.

View attachment 223872

Very nice. How did you connect the top to the cabinet?

 

[Martin Roper]

Very nice. How did you connect the top to the cabinet?

The carcass was constructed very similar to this:

I just drove 6 or 8 screws up through the top stretchers into the countertop.

I made the carcass and I found the doors and drawers at a Habitat ReStore for $15.

 

[Wilsoncb]

For the front to back movement I would start by removing the nails in the 2x4s and replacing them with #10x3” deck screws. Looks liked there are 8 of them. If that doesn’t work, then you can do something more extensive.

You said you didn’t want to just add plywood sheets to the exterior of the sides (or ends). I’m assuming you want to maintain the original look? If so, can you brace it on the inside? If there is room for a 2x4 or 2x6 that can go from the inside bottom of the front 2x6 to the inside top back 2x6. If there is no room for that then I would just go with x-bracing flat metal straps.

 

[Mike Davis]

I would try to keep this as original as possible. Pull off the top boards, remove all the nails and any other metal, like you said... joint, glue flatten.
I would remove the end panel boards, install some 1/2 inch plywood with glue and screws then re-apply the old boards on top of the plywood, may have to trim to fit inside legs.
Maybe add some more carriage bolts where possible to strengthen the joinery of the legs.
Lightly wire brush by hand to loosen any chipped paint, roll on a couple coats of satin polyurethane to preserve the original look.
Re-install the top and the vise.
Some people don't appreciate heritage and history but as as person who refurbishes old rolling pins I can see the sentimental value in this.
Would be nice to pass it down another 3 generations.