Should I put sandpaper on my DP table?

[tvrgeek]

OK, we have a table, fences, hold-downs, vices, etc. so things don;t move while drilling. Makes sense. But I see commercial tables with melamine or Formica on them. Slick. Makes no sense. Anyway, as I am waiting on Amazon ( delay shipments so I get the best rebate) I decided to make my DP table. Almost done. I'll show the things I did different from any I have seen when the hardware gets here. Ran out of T-bolts.

The question is thus: Would it be a good idea to cover the surface with 800 or maybe 1200 sandpaper? How about the fences? I don't see a downside but as I have not seen it done, it makes me wonder.

 

[creasman]

Mine is covered with laminate (very slick), but I haven't had an issue. If I can't hold it in place while drilling, then I need to use a clamp of some sort. I assume your table has a sacrificial insert that will get replaced from time to time. Have you thought about just covering this w/sandpaper?

 

[pop-pop]

Mine is covered with laminate (very slick), but I haven't had an issue. If I can't hold it in place while drilling, then I need to use a clamp of some sort. I assume your table has a sacrificial insert that will get replaced from time to time. Have you thought about just covering this w/sandpaper?

Sounds like a possible drill bit duller. 1/16” crubber might be a better choice.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

You want your working piece to move around easily until you don't want it to move, then you clamp it in place. Additionally, if you ever need to drill something that already has a finish on it, you wouldn't want to scratch it. These are reasons why commercially available DP tables almost always have formica, laminate, or melamine surfaces. Don't reinvent the wheel on this one.

 

[Martin Roper]

I bought a Groz drill press vise for my table. It adds a nice amount of mass to whatever I'm drilling but slides around on the laminate. I'm thinking of getting some self-adhesive grip tape to put on the bottom for quick jobs that don't really need it to be clamped down.

 

[tvrgeek]

I bought a Groz drill press vise for my table. It adds a nice amount of mass to whatever I'm drilling but slides around on the laminate. I'm thinking of getting some self-adhesive grip tape to put on the bottom for quick jobs that don't really need it to be clamped down.

View attachment 228609

For metal work, I have a good Palmgren vise, bolts, and the SOP vise-grip clamp. I can attest, even with the mass of the vise, a bit can still catch and spin the vise and work around. They put bolt slots in them for a reason. Quick jobs are usually where you get hurt or break a bit.

Grip tape, cork, rubber etc. all are compressible so it can lead to precision issues which is my beef to start with. Maybe 3000 grit. I can't think of the last time I drilled something with a delicate finish. Top is MDF and I will shellac it tomorrow for durability but that makes it slicker. I suspect commercial tops are laminate for durability. I'll have to remember to always take the table off for any metal work. Magic Tap is probably quite destructive to MDF. My old Osborn miter gauge had like 50 grit on it and it never damaged anything. My favorite push block has 220 grit on it.

Yes, an insert. Different from others. So is my quick release. I'll post it when the hardware gets here along with my selection of fences. Tomorrow is the cabinet under it to hold the fences, table, toggle risers, clamps, etc. I have not decided if I need a scissors jack under the table to stabilize it. I do get a little flex with big bits.

I was testing the column lock. It seems to only need about 45 degrees so a front push-pull control may be workable. All the designs for moving the crank ignore rotation or tilting the table. Most attach to the table, not the column boss. I was thinking complicated like flexible shafts, but just extending the crank and lock to clear the table sides may be enough. Not that far to reach if the table was not in the way. Unlike the tilt on the TS. I wish the boss was steel not iron as I could weld supports to it. Don't have a torch big enough to braze any more.

Last subject is chip collection. I could run a line from the DC or miter vac but just getting another cheap Ridgid vac is probably cheaper and just clean up after a session. Drills only make chips, not fines so it is cleanup not air quality.

 

[pop-pop]

... quick jobs that don't really need it to be clamped down.

After using these auto-clamps for several years now, I am now of a mind that there ain't much that doesn't need to be clamped down or at least against a fence. No more surprise bit grabs for me. YMMV

 

[tvrgeek]

Gad, even Amazon is playing games. Search shop vac by "featured" and a cheap $32 one comes up. Search "lowest price" and it does not show up. $79 as lowest. Can't trust anyone these days.

 

[tvrgeek]

After using these auto-clamps for several years now, I am now of a mind that there ain't much that doesn't need to be clamped down or at least against a fence. No more surprise bit grabs for me. YMMV
View attachment 228611

I do want a pair of them. Yours look different from the Rockler or MIlescraft. What is the source?
Does your laser actually help?

 

[pop-pop]

I do want a pair of them. Yours look different from the Rockler or MIlescraft. What is the source?
Does your laser actually help?

Mine are Kreg brand.

I look at the DP laser maybe half the time. Useful when moving the table to use a new spot on the insert plate and when adjusting the fence.

 

[pop-pop]

Scott, Kreg was the only brand back then (5-10 years ago). Keep the following in mind when evaluating the other brands.

There is one shortcoming with my Kreg autoclamps. With thick (say over 3") workpieces, the arm is at a high angle and tends to pull the workpiece slightly toward the clamp when locking. No problem with normal thickness pieces.

To counter that, I try to get the clamp pads behind the drill bit if possible. Otherwise, I move to my other drill press that has a cross slide vise.

 

[tvrgeek]

Thanks. One size never fits all. My vise-lock has the same issue. I once put it on a threaded coupling to get more height on an awkward bit.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I find the best way to hold something is the fence. Mark the hole position on the part, pull the drill down to the center point to hold the piece, move fence to piece and secure fence. If you have multiple pieces, clamp a stop on the fence at that point and go to town.

 

[tvrgeek]

I have various fences. Fine for taller work, not for thin work. A fence can also be one more thing to flex. Just holding the work is an easy way for the bit to pull off the mark as wood in inconsistent. Again, a place for sandpaper and clamps. Even with a spur point, though much better than a chisel point bit. Just the flex of the table is enough to cause issues.

Going to shave down an insert and put laminate on it to see if I can keep the woodworking table on for most metal work. Quick slide in is easier than removing the table.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I’ve never noticed any flex in my fence, it’s a simple 3 x 2 x 1/4 aluminum angle milled square. It can be flipped depending upon the need, or just removed. I have noticed smaller drill bits are going to follow the path hardwood gives them no matter the bit type or how well you hold y piece.
Base is 1/2” 6061 Aluminum, top is 3/8” Durlon, brass guides. Gears and crank for vertical adjustment. One of these days I’ll make a sacrificial insert. It’s very utilitarian, but serves my needs.

 

[tvrgeek]

My standard metal work fence looks like the same extrusion.
When you moved the crank, did you do anything for the collar lock?

So, here is the table, underside and a few fences. I can also use my router table fence that has dust and stop block accommodation. Got a couple T-track Milescraft clamps on order. Not self adjusting though. Ran several inserts. Siomple doevtail sl they slip in from the front, and I can slide or trim them as they get chewed up.

 

[Wilsoncb]

My standard metal work fence looks like the same extrusion.
When you moved the crank, did you do anything for the collar lock?

So, here is the table, underside and a few fences. I can also use my router table fence that has dust and stop block accommodation. Got a couple T-track Milescraft clamps on order. Not self adjusting though. Ran several inserts. Siomple doevtail sl they slip in from the front, and I can slide or trim them as they get chewed up.

Collar lock is just stock. Table looks like it’s coming along nicely. Over center clamps are handy (can never have enough of them), I’m guessing you will “key” the table to locate it the same every time.

 

[tvrgeek]

Table has three side rails that are shimmed to be snug, so accurate positioning as well as more resistance to movement. You may notice it is elevated on 2 x SYP. That is so the crank clears my hand. I am thinking about the crank and lock.