Shop Update


Corporate Member
I sent a couple pictures of my new shop just after acquiring it. I have been working on it since then.

Today, I removed the gas heater which was mounted to the ceiling but the shop does not have gas, so it has never been used in its current location. I have decided to install a mini-split so I don't need the gas heater. Anyone want a free heater??

gas heater.jpg

The ceiling and upper walls are insulated with R-13 fiberglass insulation. After purchase, I learned that the lower walls had no insulation. So I have been removing the interior walls (painted OSB) and have started transferring the ceiling insulations to the lower walls. I will put thicker insulation (R-38) on the ceiling after the walls are insulated. I started on the wall with no workbenches or electrical, so I made good progress so far (but I now have to remove all of the surface-mounted electrical to be able to remove the OSB).

Hiding behind the insulation was a mess I did not expect:
rotten beam.jpg

A view from a little farther out to give more context:
rotten beam wide.jpg

And even wider:

I am currently removing things so I can fully understand the extent of the damage, bit it appears that this is the only beam which is damaged. The board it is sitting on is also rotted.

Any suggestions on how to repair this mess?



Corporate Member
couple of things I am assuming that is a roof rafter we are looking at. They made the repair incorrectly. ALL the seams on a patch needs to be blocked. Otherwise, there is no shear or moment collection. This looks like a home depot parking lot guy fixed it.

The bigger issue is why was it leaking in the 1st place. need to figure that out 1st. Confirm you have that resolved before you commence with the current needed repairs.

Assuming it is as a roof, you will need to redo that patch. To do that, you will need to shore the damaged one 1st, then go up 12-18" beyond where the damage ends and cut out, and remove. Keep that piece as a template. Then add another 2x12 on each adjacent rafters to make stronger.
Then, nail in a doubled 2x12 or equal across to the 2 adjacent rafters as the header. That is a blocked out and headed off configuration just the same as you would do for a skylight. All the added wood needs to be nailed together with 2 rows @ 8" oc nailing w/16d (3.25-3.5") nails. Then, install hangers to the header and for the new rafter. Finally, cut the new rafter piece and install. You could install the hangers 1st, but I have found doing that way you usually get the hangers in too low or too high, that's why I have always done it this way.

After it is installed, make all the other repairs to the roof and you are done.

One thing I am not big on OSB for floors or roof sheathing, it is too prone to failing once getting wet. Just saying............

hit me up and I can give more detail if needed.
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Corporate Member
Thanks, @Oka!! Your suggestions were very helpful. I have successfully repaired the rotted rafter and the other boards which were also damaged. As I was taking it apart, I kept finding more than needed to be replaced. Here are the worst pieces:


If I use clamps, it is a woodworking project, right??


All structural work is done! Yeah!

@Oka In an earlier message, you mentioned you were not a fan of Tyvek. The white material in the walls is tyvek and it crumbles when you touch it. Clearly it would not provide any moisture protection at this point.

Thanks again for your help!


Corporate Member
@DavidK Np, glad I could help. Couple of things I see. On the bottom, you should pressure block the patch you put in @ the bottom plate. Yeah Tyvek sucks. It really does no last in the warmer conditions.
Better to use 60 min building paper (2-sheets of black paper called D-sheet) 60 min building paper . 200 year old system still is better.

Disconnect the panel from the stud, (de-energize 1st), then block behind with 2x6 top and bottom.

Finally, You need a vapor barrier between the sheetmetal siding and the studs. Otherwise the heat will cause moisture in the wall when there is high humidity. The simplest way to do this is with a rubberized paint, or urethane paint sprayed on the inside .
You could also go with foil backed insulation and staple it tightly to the stud as well. Do no use the paper back insulation in this condition. If you decide to go cheap on this, at least paint the bottom foot and top foot.


Corporate Member
@Oka Thanks again for your help! Your experience is very much appreciated.

I have installed pressure blocks on the bottom (thankfully, Google was able to show me what that was :) ) and blocked behin the power panel. It is much more secure now.

For some reason, the Home Depot here in Durham does not have 60 min building paper, nor is it available to be shipped here. The link for Honolulu shows a bunch of it in stock. How strange...

I am trying to understand your suggestion for moisture barrier. Clearly, the Tyvek is not doing anything (and it was never installed along half of the back wall). Are you suggesting spraying rubberized paint onto the metal to seal any joints and screw holes?

Thanks again for your feedback!


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