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Ed Fasano

Ed
Senior User
The responses to the Sharpening Poll seemed to have stopped, so I'm posting the results. I omitted the "Some Combination of the Above" number because it was a poorly posed question in the structure of my poll. My bad. In any case, Thank you to those who responded. Here's what you had to say:

Sharpening Poll Results
Total Responses

57

%
Oil stones

2

3.5%
Water Stones

6

10.5%
Ceramic stones

7

12.3%
Diamond plates

17

29.8%
Sandpaper on a reliably flat surface

10

17.5%
Tormek or Tormek clone system

4

7.0%
Work Sharp system

10

17.5%
I avoid the use of edge tools because effective sharpening is a black art
0

0.0%
I outsource the sharpening on my hand tools
0

0.0%
Other – Please specify
(Makita horizontal water stone)

1

1.8%

I suppose the only mild surprise to me might be that Tormek users fewer than I anticipated. I'm guessing that its expense is the reason. On that note, Tormek has announced a generation 3 model T8 with an even higher price.

Ed
 
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danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
I find it relaxing too!

Gary I see you and Rick use the Shapton ceramic on glass to go final on edges. In the past I have used the Japanese water stones after using the Makita wet wheel like another user. After years of water and cleaning then frequently flattening the water stones I looked for an alternative. I wanted some thing that was more expedient and not so messy.

I found something that seems to work well and its easy: diamond plates.

Now I don't know if it gives you a nicer edge than the higher grit stones but it sure is reliable - in the shop and on the road. I have wondered about the 4000-8000 grit world but I just haven't pulled the trigger.


When looking at Shapton stuff I read about the need to buy a flattening diamond plate(290.00) to keep the ceramic plate just right. Now that seems pricey?

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shapton-Diamond-Lapping-Plate-P237C84.aspx

Now that seems pricey?



Getting back to diamond plates(the smooth 8 x3). I can sharpen scraper blades all day with these and I still have flat plates. This has been a major bonus for saving maintenance time.

So my interest is: how do you keep the ceramic plates flat and working well? Does it take a good bit of time?

I know this thread is about a survey but it seems like the participants are filling up small camps. Maybe a little more on why you favor one method over another.

Thanks
Dan
 

cpw

New User
Charles
5.

I do sandpaper on plate glass because it's a cheap way to get started.
Switching to diamond plates & strop a la Paul Sellers as soon as I can swing it.

I also have a Delta wet grinding wheel for quick reshaping.
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
I have tried lots of methods. My last mistake was a Delta Sharpening Center now gone. 1, 3, 5 on plate glass, 7 & 11. The Work Sharp is gift from heaven. I also use a Wolverine with a 8 in. slow speed grinder. My latest addition is a Razor Sharp slotted polishing wheel with green aluminum/chromium oxide. This gadget makes things really really sharp.

Pop
 

nn4jw

New User
Jim
Obviously there's no one "best" way to sharpen all edges/tools, no matter what the manufacturers claim. Not all methods are equal, but whatever gets the job done for a particular type of tool and edge and you are comfortable using on a regular basis is a good individual choice. What I use on a knife isn't what I use on a turning gouge. Plane irons get yet another method. And what I'm using today may well not be what I use tomorrow. But it could be what I used yesterday.
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
5.

I do sandpaper on plate glass because it's a cheap way to get started.
Switching to diamond plates & strop a la Paul Sellers as soon as I can swing it.

Charles,

This was me. Sellers' approves the "cheap" method of sandpaper on glass too. Figuring I'd never spring for three or four plates, I convinced myself to buy one plate per quarter off of Amazon until I had them. Took me about a year to pull it together but truthfully, just having the first coarse plate helped immediately (while still using paper for the other grades).
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Charles,

This was me. Sellers' approves the "cheap" method of sandpaper on glass too. Figuring I'd never spring for three or four plates, I convinced myself to buy one plate per quarter off of Amazon until I had them. Took me about a year to pull it together but truthfully, just having the first coarse plate helped immediately (while still using paper for the other grades).

I also bought a coarse diamond plate (220gr). Works quickly for re-establishing the primary bevel on planes and chisels, and for setting a camber in a plane iron. Great to have when you knock a chip out of the edge, or have used up the primary bevel, especially on today's thicker irons and harder steel. I also have the 600 and 1200 for the secondary bevels, but finish up with 2000gr paper.

Go
 
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