Setting up and tuning a ridgid 14" bandsaw

[Volksdad]

I bought my saw in early 2006 on a closeout, and moved to NC and packed it in a shed. Earlier this month I started setting up my TINY shop, and it was time to set up the bandsaw. After my initial assessment, I finished putting it all together per the manual, and found the yellow safety key missing. I cut a small piece of plastic to bypass the key and switched her on.

[video] http://youtu.be/TEISQuT0Y-g[/video]

Clearly there are issues, and I started doing some research. Joe Scharle was kind enough to send me pictures of his modifications to his own ridgid saw, and i started trouble shooting.

I removed the blade and replaced the belt with a segmented one, and aligned the drive pulleys at the same time (they were about 1/2" out of whack).



I also balanced the upper wheel with wheel weights, adding 3/4 oz to make it settle randomly.



I used self adhesive zinc wheel weights designed for motorcycles. (Wurth automotive product)



Here's my next issue. The lower tire is cracked and worn, though the upper one seems fine. Should I replace these as a pair? Urethane or regular?

Also- What do you guys recommend to clean up the table and dissolve the rust/ preserve it?

Glen

 

[Mike Davis]

I would replace both tires with urethane.

I use sand paper and WD-30 to clean cast iron then paraffin wax to keep it free from rust. I'm sure there are less laborious high tech solutions out there.

 

[Volksdad]

Thank you Mike. I'm going to get two new tires at Klingspor in the morning.
As far as the table is concerned, I'll open a fresh can of elbow grease tomorrow and get to it.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I use a slurry of WD-40 and Barkeeper's Friend (same kind of can as Comet) and a 320 sponge.
Then keep it protected and slick with Johnson's wax. Got some Bioshield...still got it!

 

[Volksdad]

OK, I found a 14' 2x8 at homely depot in their "bargain" bin for $3, so I grabbed it and made up two 1 1/4" thick panels to add mass and weight to the saw. I tool the base and saw apart and threw away the silly rubber feet that came with the tool. I made a 19" x 29" piece for the bottom and a 13"x23" piece for the top. I used 3 1/2" hex headed 5/16 bolts with washers to put it all together. I painter the bottom of the wood to slow moisture absorption (and also because i CAREFULLY screwed up the panels by not alternating the grain properly to avoid cupping.. ugh.)

At any rate Klingspors had a GREAT price on 14" urethane tires- two for $29.90! So, I bought two and slid them on. I test fit everything without the new blade in place and it starts without jumping and hums along nicely!! Tomorrow I will work on the hammertone rattle can job and finish cleaning all the metal surfaces.

I noticed that the original guide blocks are not quite square. Should i just try to square them or upgrade to "cool blocks " or some other guide right now?

 

[Mark Gottesman]

Paint "BOTH" sides to slowdown cupping and don't skip the edges. Since it's all together, I would forget about it unless the wood warps and twists the frame. Looks good and the additional mass will help. You could add battens underneath. Read up on cool blocks, I seem to recall reading in some article that they are not really any better than regular guide blocks, but again, I have no experience with them.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I cut my blocks from lignum vitae.

 

[Volksdad]

Paint "BOTH" sides to slowdown cupping and don't skip the edges. Since it's all together, I would forget about it unless the wood warps and twists the frame. Looks good and the additional mass will help. You could add battens underneath. Read up on cool blocks, I seem to recall reading in some article that they are not really any better than regular guide blocks, but again, I have no experience with them.

I painted the bottom, facing the floor already, and im going to disassemble what I have to do a proper paint job on the table, which is where cupping would be most disastrous. I'd also like to stiffen up the two skinny ends of the bandsaw. There's no crossbrace there and I believe that it would not hurt to have one.

the floor of my shed is plywood and not the stiffest. Out on the little porch that i built to have workspace outside, i put the support members 12" on center. I usually run the machines outside. (Plus i don't worry about dust accumulation as much).

thanks Mark and Joe for weighing in on the blocks. I'll do some more reading before spending.

glen

 

[Volksdad]

Ok so it's been busy at work, but I finally had a day to do some stuff so... Time to tackle the rust!


I sprayed and scrubbed for about an hour, didnt have unlimited time though because i had to make space for the New Table saw I bought.


Ta-dah. Ok, it's not perfect but it'll Do for now.
I did mount my blade and set the guides. Without the guides set the blade seems to wander a bit, rhythmically. Is this normal? ALSO my upper and lower wheels are off plane, that is, a straightedge will not touch all four edges when its next to it. Do you think this is important?

Glen

 

[Mike Davis]

Yes, you need to align your wheels so the blade will run true.

the blade will vibrate and flutter until you get the tension just right. But, it's not a huge deal. Most saws run with the tension off a bit.

 

[Volksdad]

Yes, you need to align your wheels so the blade will run true.

the blade will vibrate and flutter until you get the tension just right. But, it's not a huge deal. Most saws run with the tension off a bit.

So I should spend some time futzing with the tension to see if it keeps the blade in path then first? To be clear. The blade wants to wander back and forth on the center of the tire. The tires themselves seem to be a touch wide for the groove. Maybe a 32 or so. They have a slight bulge in the center not echoed in the wheel bed. It's very slight iirc.

 

[Bas]

I cut my blocks from lignum vitae.

:rotflm:

 

[Joe Scharle]

Hah! You spurn my parsimony .

Next time you come by, I'll show you!

 

[Joe Scharle]

Glen, sounds like you could benefit from looking at a working saw. I'm not far away and available most of the time. PM me if you want to take a look.

 

[Mike Davis]

So I should spend some time futzing with the tension to see if it keeps the blade in path then first? To be clear. The blade wants to wander back and forth on the center of the tire. The tires themselves seem to be a touch wide for the groove. Maybe a 32 or so. They have a slight bulge in the center not echoed in the wheel bed. It's very slight iirc.

No, that is a different issue than I thought you described at first. The tires should be slightly crowned, that sounds correct. Except they should fit the wheel. Most likely the wheels being out of alignment are making the blade wander.

 

[Mike Davis]

I cut my blocks from lignum vitae.

Probably as good or better than cool blocks and certainly better than steel.

 

[TCAS]

Don't forget to check out YouTube for some excellent videos on the subject of bandsaws.

Here are a few of the good ones:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JowHmdihl-Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwu7GvJ76qU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxfZphxj2eM