Saving Sheetrock

[kenger22]

Anyone have any good tips to try and save sheetrock?

Her's my dilemma, I need to wire my garage, im adding another breaker to the box, one for all my tools, and one for the lighting and garage door etc. But i need to add a few more wall outlets in the ceiling so i can add some actual shop lights instead of the crap "the lowest builders" put into it. So I'm trying to save myself about 200 dollars in new sheetrock if i can save the stuff thats in there now. It's all plastured up so i cant really see the screws. Any ideas would be great.

Thanks

 

[PChristy]

Anyone have any good tips to try and save sheetrock?

Her's my dilemma, But i need to add a few more wall outlets in the ceiling so i can add some actual shop lights instead of the crap "the lowest builders" put into it.Thanks

Is there an acces to this area from above

 

[kenger22]

no unfortunately not

 

[PChristy]

If it was me I would run conduent on the outside of the sheetrock then run your wire to where you want to have your lights - am no expert but I have seen some done that way - hopefully the experts herewill chime in and give you a better answer

 

[DaveO]

If there is no access from above or below to drop/fish the wires down between the studs/joist you could use a Rotozip (the only good use for it) to cut a narrow path for the wiring. Patching that wouldn't take much new drywall and mud.

Dave

 

[PChristy]

If there is no access from above or below to drop/fish the wires down between the studs you could use a Rotozip (the only good use for it) to cut a narrow path for the wiring. Patching that wouldn't take much new drywall and mud.

Dave

wouldn't it depend on how the rafters are running if you are installing new lights-it would work ok in the wall - if you done this I would use the mesh tape to cover it back up when you mud it back

 

[Tarhead]

I surface mounted BX cable in my garage.

 

[DaveO]

wouldn't it depend on how the rafters are running if you are installing new lights-it would work ok in the wall - if you done this I would use the mesh tape to cover it back up when you mud it back

Yeah, if you're going across the rafters it would be more difficult. But if you could cut a 6" wide section out you should be able to get a right angle drill in there to punch through the rafters. I never thought about saving the cut-outs. With the Rotozip's 1/8" "kerf" they would be quite easy to put back in place and tape/mud the seams.

Dave

 

[Gotcha6]

What is the composition of the ceiling joists? 2x dimensioned lumber? LVL, or TrusJoists? The joists themselves can be found by 'sounding' the ceiling with a hammer. Once you find one they should be on a repeatble center spacing (16", 19.2", 24"). You can fish from cutout box to cutout box easily if there is no insulation, and you may even be able to do it if there is with a fiberglass fish rod(not the kind you take to the lake). As far as going across the joists, you'd need to cut a slot large enough to get a drill bit into the middle third of the joist. Do this on alternate spans and drill each way. Save yourself some trouble down the road and make the space above your electrical panel a removable section. Slip a piece of 3/4" plywood or 1 x 4 into the space above the slot cuts & patch them back using drywall screws, construction adhesive, and fiberglass tape.

 

[MrAudio815]

Yeah, if you're going across the rafters it would be more difficult. But if you could cut a 6" wide section out you should be able to get a right angle drill in there to punch through the rafters. I never thought about saving the cut-outs. With the Rotozip's 1/8" "kerf" they would be quite easy to put back in place and tape/mud the seams.

Dave

Well here is a picture of what I did to run 220v last year. I did exactly what DaveO said. Well not exactly, I used a razor blade and a square to cut the sheetrock and I used what I had, a regular corded drill, man it would have been nice to have a right angle drill.:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead: I haven't put the sheet rock up yet since I was planning on adding insulation since the other side is the outside. Haven't got the funds yet. :icon_scra Or maybe just put it off!:rotflm:





and one more

This one was a bummer, :BangHead: it took a long spade bit from both sides. You have to do your best to keep it straight, but it angles and you end up meeting somewhere in the middle. I was also told that you need to put a metal strip on each of the 2x4's before you replace the sheetrock so someone doesn't drill/hammer a nail into the wires.:saw:

Well I hope this helps,

 

[Donna Wynne]

Can't do it. Don't even try.

I used to love watching "Holmes on Homes" on the Discovery Home Network (before it got taken over by that inane and useless Planet Green Network), but I would cringe to see Mike Holmes' "Make-it-Right" team ripping out drywall, studs, and everything else and toss huge chunks into a dumpster. I kept thinking to myself surely he's throwing away all that good stuff. Now I know why that stuff went into the dumptser.

When I needed to add some lines for some more lights and a 220 line in my garage for my a new table saw, I decided I was going to save all that beautiful drywall by taking it down carefully and opening up the wall for the electrician. Unfortunately, all I got for my effort was a mess and a jillion small pieces of good-for-nothing broken drywall which I had to pay to take to the landfill and I had to hire a drywall guy to fix my disaster in addition to paying the electrician.

When I later needed to add some more power in my garage, I just had my electrictian run romex in metal conduit fastened against the wall with those omega-shaped straps. He ran the lines exactly where I needed them. It looked neat and professional, and everything was completed in a half-day and at a cost of less than 1/4 of what I paid for my first disaster.

Donna