Safe to rip this?

[dazart]

A family member wants a key holder for the entrance and liked this wood. I've never cut anything but store bought wood.

If I put the 'straight' edge against the fence, is this safe to rip? I don't think the blade will go high enough to cut all the way through either.

Not sure of a solution for that either.

 

[MarkE]

I would cut it with a bandsaw.

If you have to cut it on a tablesaw, maybe make some kind of sled to hold it steady. It wouldn't take much of a sled, just attach the workpiece to a piece of plywood that is a bit wider. Run the plywood edge against the rip fence.

 

[dazart]

Guess the band saw should be next on my purchase list.

 

[Jeff]

A family member wants a key holder for the entrance and liked this wood.

Entrance to what and what kind of wood is it? From your River Birch log?

How long and thick is the section at it's maximum and how high can you crank up the table saw blade?

It may be safely doable but you'll have to take it slow. Tell us more about what you want to get from this piece.

 

[ehpoole]

I would cut it with a bandsaw.

If you have to cut it on a tablesaw, maybe make some kind of sled to hold it steady. It wouldn't take much of a sled, just attach the workpiece to a piece of plywood that is a bit wider. Run the plywood edge against the rip fence.

I agree, when dealing with wood where kickback is a real concern the bandsaw is the safest choice by far. While bandsaws are not absolutely immune to a kickback-like event (if overfed), because they press the wood into the table they do not tend to throw the workpiece back at the operator when overfed as the table and blade each absorb the full force of the event (however, in extreme cases blades can break and lead to injury but ordinarily nothing bad will happen), leaving very little energy for launching the workpiece nor can they naturally throw an item back at the operator in normal course since the blade is never traveling in the operator's direction (just be sure to avoid standing within the lower wheel housing or directly under the table! ).

I also agree with the suggestion of temporarily securing it to a sacrificial backer board that does afford a clean guide edge for making the cut on a tablesaw if the bandsaw option is not viable. And, if all you are trying to do is create a flat back for mounting purposes, then a few passes over a jointer, with proper safety push blocks (in case of kickback), can achieve that result as well so long as it is a long enough board (about 3 times the width of the cutterhead opening between the infeed and outfeed tables) as too short a board is a kickback risk on a jointer -- but if that is what you are seeking then a jointer will likely handle the full width versus the ~3-1/8" limitation on tablesaw blade height.

 

[redknife]

Jig saw an option. Not sure of the end product.

 

[bob vaughan]

clamp a board on it and trim a straight edge with a hand router or portable circular saw and you'll have an edge straight enough to work with a table saw.

 

[dazart]

Basically want to turn it into a rectangle.

The part I think will be difficult is the thickness. After that I like the router with a flush trim or straight bit for the sides sounded reasonable?

I basically have a router, table saw, jigsww, and circular saw.

 

[Graywolf]

Just my two cents, but what about just cutting it with a hand saw and get it done. I wouldn't put it on a table saw, I would cut it a band saw or if I didn't have that then I would go with a hand saw and get a little exercise.

 

[dazart]

I'm ok with the have saw approach. Any suggestions or the style/brand/type to buy?

 

[FredP]

I don't know where Huntersville is, but if you can get to Franklinton I can get this done for you.

 

[Graywolf]

Steve, you sound as if your starting from a small grouping of tools and a really rough piece of wood. I don't know how big this piece is, so tool choices are many. My earlier point was there is more than one way to get at this without going and spending hundreds of dollars, unless that's what you want to do. Hand tools just like with power tools, you can get lost in the choices and the thinking that I have to have this to do that or I have to have the very best or nothing at all. It's a very deep rabbit hole. There have been hundreds of books written on the subject and fortunately or unfortunately I have read most. that in no way makes me an expert, nor did it stop me from making mistakes along the way.
so with all that stated, any advice I give you is going to be subject to harsh criticism. I don't care I'm a maker, and I make everyday. I'm used to it. Fred made really nice offer to help you process your piece and if you want drive across state, that is a option. For that matter come to High Point and I'll process it with you. There really isn't one answer fits all here. So if you want to go the cheep route and go to Lowes and buy a fat max hand saw, that will get started, and if you want to spend more money you can go to Wood Craft and buy a couple Pax hand saws. Those are just choices close to where you live. Or you can go to some flea markets and pick up some cheep used saws, however there is a lot more knowledge needed to go that way. I don't know how much you know about woodworking in general so advising you becomes more difficult because I don't want insult you nor do I want go over your head.
so now that I have written a small paper here, here is the shameless self promotion, if you interested in learning about hand saws, I am teaching two workshops, one in September on saw sharpening, and one in October on handsaw use with some skill building exercises. Would love to have you join us. You can find more information in the classes, workshop and education section of this site.
good luck and I hope hear from you.

 

[KenOfCary]

I was also going to suggest a hand saw, but Richard (Graywolf) beat me to it. No possibility of kickback with a hand saw. Well at least it would be a very low speed event if it managed to happen.

Depending on the end result you're looking for a coping saw might be the answer. Not a quick solution but you can make whatever shape you like out of the piece with a little patience and elbow grease. Good luck with the project and be sure to post pictures of the end result.

 

[DaveD]

That looks like an ideal job for an old fashioned hand plane.

 

[Tarhead]

Happy to assist with this if you need to use a bandsaw and/or a jointer. I'm near the speedway.

 

[dazart]

Ok - So it might be a lot smaller than what I think everyone thinks it is. That's my mistake.

I just want to figure out a way to cut the 1 1/2" depth down so that it's flat and I can put it on the wall. I think I'll try with a saw I guess, but I'm not sure how straight I'd be able to do it by hand. I have another piece that is similar - I could always practice on that piece. I was just hoping there'd be something more exact to keep make sure it's straight so it sits on the wall flush.

 

[Raymond]

Just a suggestion.

Horizontally speaking, cut the top and bottom straight for your rectangle. Leave the ends sort of rough and then you will know how much to cut off the rounded back to make it flat enough to hang.

 

[Skymaster]

on cut side i wood run it thru a jointer to flatten a side, the if you want to flatten the round side, use a planer off the jointed face. I really do not understand what you want to do exactly

 

[Tarhead]

Assuming you want to end up with one rectangular board with 6 sides square and had only a tablesaw and a carpenter's saw:
I would take about 3/4" off from each long edge with the board attached to a ripping jig for rough boards to keep it from kickback on the table saw. This will give you a roughly 1" X 6" board with one curved side on it.

Then turn the board onto its narrow edge with the flat wide face against my tablesaw rip fence.

Wind my blade up to about 1/2" less than half the board width. I want to leave about a 1/4" strip bridging the 2 pieces. Then do what Stumpy does in this YT except use a handsaw to do the final separation of the curved offcut from the main workpiece. Trying to make the cut completely through with the tablesaw would cause my pucker factor alarm ring: [video=youtube;iv7qbqd_MyA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iv7qbqd_MyA[/video]

 

[Jeff]

on cut side i wood run it thru a jointer to flatten a side, the if you want to flatten the round side, use a planer off the jointed face. I really do not understand what you want to do exactly

Yep, it's been like pulling teeth to get some, one, or a few specifics and it could have been a lot simpler from square one!