Router Tearout

[DaveNorthrup]

I have a project that will have 3 wood handles fron 2x2x6 Red Oak stock. I hope to have 1/2" round on the top front and top, bottom and front sides of each end. On the inside bottom I'll route a cove to allow a finger rest. The rounding bit has a bearing and I was real careful in the setup. The problem is that when I route the end grain, I get real bad tearout. It's so bad that even saving the routing with the grain to the end, the tearout isn't taken away. What I've tried so far, is I made a zero clearance sacrificial fence and I read that wetting the wood helps, nope. My router is a variable speed (PC 7518) and I slowed it down all the way also.
Any advice will be appreciated,
Thanks, Dave

 

[BillPappas]

I have a project that will have 3 wood handles fron 2x2x6 Red Oak stock. I hope to have 1/2" round on the top front and top, bottom and front sides of each end. On the inside bottom I'll route a cove to allow a finger rest. The rounding bit has a bearing and I was real careful in the setup. The problem is that when I route the end grain, I get real bad tearout. It's so bad that even saving the routing with the grain to the end, the tearout isn't taken away. What I've tried so far, is I made a zero clearance sacrificial fence and I read that wetting the wood helps, nope. My router is a variable speed (PC 7518) and I slowed it down all the way also.
Any advice will be appreciated,
Thanks, Dave

Have you tried it with the bit running full speed...the smaller the bit, the faster the speed needed usually. I would also suggest you take multiple small cuts to complete the end grain routing. Then route the sides so the tear out is removed...you maybe doing this already if I am reading your post correctly.

Hope this helps...

Regards,

Bill

 

[Joe Scharle]

Another thing to consider is a small parts carrier/sled to give you more control in presenting the ends to the bit. It's hard for me to hold a small edge to a small bit.

 

[DIYGUY]

Did you start with 2x2's? If you started with something wider I would make your end cuts on the wide board first. Then rip your 2x2's from that. Try using a board that is 2x7 and it should be enough width to yield your final pieces. Alternatively, try making your cuts backwards - that is, with a climb cut. For the short distance you are cutting it should be okay ...

 

[Travis Porter]

What brand of bit are you using?

I would guess you either have a low quality bit or a dull one. The new Freud quadra-cuts are extremely nice for low tear out and little to no rough edges.

 

[ScottM]

- Sharp bit

- Take a little material off each pass and not all at once

- Route the end grain first then the long grain.

 

[PeteM]

Try Charles Niel's "Bump Cuttin'" technique.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-l4suyL84-w&feature=email

pete

 

[Bear]

Hello Dave, may I chime in with my two cents worth, or maybe only one. You have gotten some very good suggestions. My personal experience would be for using wide stock and then slicing to dimension, the suggestion of a sled for small pieces is also highly recommended.

Climb feeding end grain has never proven successful for me; in fact, it has proven to be dangerous in some cases. That is coming from one that uses the method almost exclusively with the grain cuts. I began using a stock feeder and climb feeding when trying to profile rail and stiles for doors in hickory, it was the only way I would have lived long enough to finish the job. Even with the power feeder, I have not had good luck climb feeding end grain.

Perhaps there is a trick to it that I am ignorant of and would be obliged if someone would like to clue me in.

If you are using a fence and must use the smaller pieces, I would suggest using the fence to take very light passes and make sure to use a backer. You may also try coating the ends with a CA glue, if that does not interfere with finishing.

Good luck.

Bear

 

[DaveNorthrup]

Thanks to all for your help. I was able to accomplish this without tearout by 1) "Bump" routing a gentle stop cut along the entire length of the endgrain. Then 2) With a smaller rounding bit (1/8") made a 1st pass, then made a second pass with an larger rounding bit (1/4"). Then finished up with a 1/2" bit. I went very gently and did make an small sled to stabilize the pieces. Probably over cautious but didn't want to waste more wood.

Bottom line, It got me where I wanted and I learned something.

Again, Thank you to all that replied.
Dave