Resawing Observations

[BKHam]

I've been using the Lennox Bimetal blade sold by Woodcraft bands, now Union Saw, for years. Typically i'm getting a 1/2 inch blade with 3 TPI. Its a quite large kerf for a bandsaw blade but would last quite a long time. Being a 1/2 inch blade meant I could still do a lot of the everyday bandsaw tasks I wanted to do.

I needed a new blade quickly for a resaw project and ordered a 1 inch, 3 TPI timberwolf blade from Amazon (i won't make a habit of the amzon part).

A couple observations:
-the thinner kerf was nice for a couple reasons: my saw seemed to handle it better, thinner kerf, less wood, makes sense. less waste, I haven't looked up specs but it was noticable.
-never wanted to get the wider blade because its usefulness for other tasks and curves was not great but it really works well. much less wandering.
-bandsaw dust colllection generally sucks, i have a rikon. i do the normal 4 inch port, a second hose under the table and I did a vac on the back end of the table. still a mess.
-my setup fouls bearings very quickly. still thinking if this is me or chinese bearings or what.


On a 4 inch wide, 8/4 board i got 15 slices.
On a 8 inch wide, 8/4, i went a little thicker for insurance, got 12 slices.
both boards are ash.

thats it. just a few thoughts for the internet.

 

[Martin Roper]

I'd continue to experiment with the dust collection issue. I found a solution that works well on my machine.

 

[Willemjm]

I've been using the Lennox Bimetal blade sold by Woodcraft bands, not Union Saw, for years. Typically i'm getting a 1/2 inch blade with 3 TPI. Its a quite large kerf for a bandsaw blade but would last quite a long time. Being a 1/2 inch blade meant I could still do a lot of the everyday bandsaw tasks I wanted to do.

I needed a new blade quickly for a resaw project and ordered a 1 inch, 3 TPI timberwolf blade from Amazon (i won't make a habit of the amzon part).

A couple observations:
-the thinner kerf was nice for a couple reasons: my saw seemed to handle it better, thinner kerf, less wood, makes sense. less waste, I haven't looked up specs but it was noticable.
-never wanted to get the wider blade because its usefulness for other tasks and curves was not great but it really works well. much less wandering.
-bandsaw dust colllection generally sucks, i have a rikon. i do the normal 4 inch port, a second hose under the table and I did a vac on the back end of the table. still a mess.
-my setup fouls bearings very quickly. still thinking if this is me or chinese bearings or what.


On a 4 inch wide, 8/4 board i got 15 slices.
On a 8 inch wide, 8/4, i went a little thicker for insurance, got 12 slices.
both boards are ash.

thats it. just a few thoughts for the internet.

Lenox only makes the Bi Metal Die Master II in 1/2".

The 3TPI is 0.035" thick, I have never tried that one, as for a 0.035" thick blade, one needs at least a 24" bandsaw wheel diameter and my 17" Grizzly is too small.

I use the 0.025" 6TPI

I tried a Timberwolf once, the same as yours resawing veneer out of 12" wide Satin Wood (Pau Amarillo) for a large king headboard. I believe after the 3rd slice the blade was dull and basically kaput. Went back to the Lenox to finish the job and years later that blade is still on my saw. Satinwood by the way is pretty hard on tools.

Linky

https://www.kmstools.com/blog/choosing-bandsaw-blades/

 

[chris_goris]

No one bandsaw blade will do it all. Its the same as tablesaw blades. there are crosscutting and ripping blades, both have their place. Im not sure how big your Rikon is but a 1" blade is pretty large for a saw under 16" (for HP and tensioning reasons)

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

I've got a big honking band saw--Laguna 16HD with a 3hp motor--so it handles the 1" wide blades just fine. I always switch to it for resawing because as Bradley pointed out there is much less wandering. This is especially important when resawing thin veneers. The thicker kerf isn't an issue with me, and I can swap blades in <15 minutes.

 

[Rwe2156]

Many people recommend 1” for resawing, but it takes a pretty big saw to tension a blade that wide.

I’ve never used over 3/4” on my 18” saw.

The blade is important, but just as important is a fence parallel to drift, and keeping the board tight to the fence.

 

[BKHam]

in my original post, i wrote "not union saw", correction is "now Union saw".

Willem
- yes i have been using the 1/2 Lenox.
-I don't understand the blade thickness comment. I don't think you need a big honking saw to run the Lenox.
-I think the timberwolf has some sharpness left in it after the Ash work. I have no illusions, its a short use consumable.

Wiley
even with an underpowered saw, of which my rikon is, the 1 inch blade is just like insurance

RWE
maybe I shouldnt be using a 1 inch blade on my rikon but if it works, it works.

 

[tvrgeek]

I don't see the size vs tension, more the structural strength of the saw. So, an old C-frame with riser, you are not going to get much tension, or the fragile aluminum upper blocks on the Jet and similar might lead to failure.

But, I do understand the minimum radius and tendency to break bands on the smaller wheel size. I can see it more in thickness than width. My Harvey 14 claims to support a 1 inch, but a 3/4 is as big as I can get the blade running where I want. It does, or I did not notice, any spec on blade thickness. I guess for re-saw you want a big 20 and run a 1 inch carbide blade, for everything else, a 14 with a 3/8 or smaller.

When I wear out my 3/4 bands, I will be testing various 1/2 bands. I suspect that is the sweet spot for a 14 re-saw. I have not spent enough time testing vernier re-saw with a 3/8, though some "experts" suggest it works fine if the saw is properly tuned. Honing the set does make a huge quality difference.

I do want a band that does not go thump-thump with a less than perfect weld. Each thump does show up in the surface.

 

[Rwe2156]

RWE
maybe I shouldnt be using a 1 inch blade on my rikon but if it works, it works.

What size saw is it? My 18" Rikon can tension a 1" blade, but I just don't see the need.

The last resaw blades I bought were the Infinity rip blades. I used to use Woodslicers, but they dull too quick. These Infinity blades last 2-3X as long.

I do want a band that does not go thump-thump with a less than perfect weld. Each thump does show up in the surface.

Interesting. Its never bothered me. So should I send my $288 Woodmaster blade back?

 

[BKHam]

the thump thump may be a bad guide bearing at least my experience.

i have a 14inch Rikon.