Powermatic 3520B...Dream Machine or Hype

Status
Not open for further replies.

HBFlyer.com

New User
HB
I mean no disrespect with the title but I am interested in knowing from those in the know how good is the Powermatic 3520B? Given the opportunity, i will be moving into the turning world. Before that time I'm in research mode. I'm interested in turning big bowls as well as legs for furniture. Most of my shop is either Powermatic or Jet. I have found that the PM equipment is heavier duty than Jet.

From NCWW archives I've read that any machine is only part of the issue. Everything else you need to be successful can be equally expensive.

So I'm reaching out to all of you with the knowledge and experience to see if the 3520B is my machine as well as what accessories need to be top priorities vs. wishlist.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
The Powermatic 3520B is a great machine. I started on a Jet and finally moved up to the 3520B. I should have just started with the PM. Jump in and enjoy!!
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
I started turning with a low end Delta several years ago, found a Jet model with cast iron head and mechanical VS (sorry, I Dont recall model numbers, but they werent old) that I learned to turn on. All the while keeping my eyes open for something better. Well, I stumbled across a PM 3520B completely outfitted , and I mean COMPLETELY. Turning was a chore on those old machines. As I have said before, it is now sheer joy to turn anything!. I have done some large bowls, 24" dia, chucked up lopsided firewood, and turned some very nice furniture legs (5" dia, but wouldnt hesitate to go MUCH larger) and it just does whatever it is asked to do. Flawlessly. One of the neatest things I was able to do with it was teach myself the dynamics of bowl turning. By this I mean, with the Electronic variable speed control, I could run the machine at virtually full torque at literally 2 RPMs and watch how a bowl gouge cut wood at what angles. Prior to this , it was catch city and very frustrating. Not many lathes will give you this level of control. If youre serious about getting into turning, I wouldnt hesitate to start there if you can financially.
 

llucas

luke
Senior User
Bought the 3520B about 4 plus years ago...love it, would do it again. I only wanted to buy a lathe once, and had pretty much decided that was the one I wanted. I searched the CL postings, the want ads, etc. looking for a used deal for a good while. No luck. So I became aware that of all the 3520 lathes out there, nobody was selling. That realization served as a recommendation of the machine, and sealed the deal for me, and I pulled the trigger on a new one.
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
Took me 3 years to decide which lathe to update to after wearing out a 1970's Craftsman lathe. I just did not know enough to make a intelligent decision. Then, one year I was teaching a class at a folk school and had a chance to talk to the resident woodturner there. He also had a dealership for Powermatic machinery. I had a chance to try several makes of lathes there at the folk school and see the physical machines to compare---OneWay, Woodfast, and the PM. The PM 3520 is what I ended up buying------it is a pleasure to turn on. No regrets what-so-ever. Well maybe one, it preceded the PM 3520B which has some nice added features. I probably will never use the machine to it's full capacity or wear it out. I feel like I got the most bang for the buck in a lathe.

Good luck in your decision, Jerry
 

aplpickr

New User
Bill
My PM has never failed me! I turn bowls, plates, even pens. We have seven lathes, there won't be any more. No need!
 

arcwick08

New User
arcwick08
Short version: Great lathe, everybody who has one seems to loves them, you'll be very happy with it and likely never need another lathe.

Long version:

If you've never been "a turner" before, that seems like a lot of lathe to try it out. The 3520 specifically, IMO, is quite expensive for what it is.
When I started turning I got a cheap, used lathe. After using that for a couple years, I got another, slightly less cheap (but still cheap) used lathe (which is what I'm still using today). Only now (some 10 years later) am I looking for an upgrade. Jet's 16-42 is at the top of my list at the moment. I considered the PM3520 quite a bit as well, but at the end couldn't justify the massive price increase for what amounted to a little extra throat capacity and some beefier castings. (Que the rage from 3520 owners :p)

From NCWW archives I've read that any machine is only part of the issue. Everything else you need to be successful can be equally expensive.

You are right on here. Over the years I've spent many times the money on tools and 'turning stuff' that I did on my lathe. Good quality tools, chucks, jaws, bits, grinders, wheels, jigs, thingers and whatsits all are expensive.
Again, this is all my opinion but I'd say that the lathe your using will account for something like 20% of the final product. The tools, the technique and the turner all make up the lion's share of what makes good turnings.

If you're looking for a top list of accessories...

Chuck and jaws: Get a good one. I favor Oneway's Talon and Stronghold. They are built great, have a number of jaw options and will last a lifetime. I know others have great things to say about Vicmarc's chucks, as well as the Nova series. All should serve you well. If you want to do bowls, get the 'cole' or 'jumbo' jaw sets for the chuck you get. These let you easily reverse mount and foot bowls without a lot of hassle.

Grinder/Jig: If you don't already have one, get an 8" bench grinder and a 120grit wheel. Then get the Wolvarine system and Varigrind sharpening jigs. I can't emphasize enough how much of a difference these jigs make in getting a good edge on your tools. I toiled away far too long manually sharpening my bowl gouges before getting one of these jigs. In my turning progression, getting my tools sharpened correctly (using these jigs) made the single biggest difference in my results of ANYTHING.

Tools: There a zillion schools of thought here on what/who make the best tools. You'll see a lot about carbide-cutterhead scrapers (easywood tools, etc). These are not bad, strictly speaking. They'll get you up and turning quickly. However I think they tend to stunt skill development in new turners. With those tools you can sort of just shove them into the wood and get reasonable results. The cost is that people tend to never learn good tool technique or control. They have their place, don't get me wrong, but there are a ton of traditional hss tools that will serve you just as well, if not better, over the long haul (and cost quite a bit less).
On HSS tools: I love the Thompson lathe tools. They're phenomenal steel and priced very, very reasonably. Doug Thompson makes every tool you could need.

Too much info? Sorry... long winded....
 

HBFlyer.com

New User
HB
Thanks for the windiness. Since all my 220v machines are PM or Jet. I did look at the 1642 as my plan b. The part I don't have a handle on is how much to budget for all the extras. I'm going to start by jumping into the deep end of the pool so this won't be gradual.

Our new home (construction to start shortly), will offer plenty of space for my dream workshop. The lathe is the last item I think I'm interested in.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I would guess about $2000 to equip the lathe with a Stronghold chuck, chuck jaws, grinder, Wolverine and Vari-Grind, set of Sorby tools, and a few Bowl Gouges for a good start.
 

arcwick08

New User
arcwick08
I just saw your location, are you living on HHI now or building there? I've got a bunch of family who've lived out there for years.

No idea what your budget is like, but with the information you provided, I'd steer you toward the 2HP version of the 16-42. You'll save ~$1,300 right out of the gate and not outgrow the machine for some time (if ever).

For expenses on turning accessories...
Face Shield $35 (That is the Uvex on amazon. Face shield NOT optional. You can also spend north of $300 if you want the fancy respirator/shield jobbers)
Grinding jigs ~$150 (Wolvarine and Varigrind)
Tools ~$300 (get a roughing gouge, spindle gouge, bowl gouge, parting tool and a scraper, call all those $60 each from Thompson)
Chuck, ~$230 (This is the basic Oneway Talon with standard jaws and the thread insert for your lathe. There are other options in chucks, but good ones are all in the $250 ballpark)
Jumbo/Cole chuck jaws ~$100 (The oneway talon jumbo jaws. Optional, but nice for footing bowls well)
You could get some additional faceplates and drive/live centers, but all good lathes come with a set already that will get you going (The Jet and PM both include very nice live centers, if memory serves)
There's consumables too - finishes, sandpaper, wax, etc - but if you're a general WW, you've already got those things.

I'd say if you rounded it out to $1,000 you'd be VERY well equipped to get started. You could save money by getting the cheaper "Hurricane" line of turning tools off amazon. But you could also spend more by getting a second chuck body (changing jaws gets old fast)

I'm sure the others will fill in any gaps I've missed here...
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
One thing to think about, no matter which lathe you buy, youll need all the same accessories to go with it. so, thats sort of a mute point.
 

WoodWrangler

New User
Jeremy
The Powermatic 3520B is a great machine, hands down. I own one and find it to be everything most turners would ever need.

HOWEVER, if money were not the concern and I wanted to buy the ultimate I would go for a OneWay 2436 or maybe even a Robust American Beauty.

Why? They simply are more polished and "special". Powermatic makes a great machine, but it's still rough around the edges (more-so that one would hope at this price point).
 
Last edited:

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
The Powermatic 3520B is a great machine, hands down. I own one and find it to be everything most turners would ever need.

HOWEVER, if money were not the concern and I wanted to buy the ultimate I would go for a OneWay 2426 or maybe even a Robust American Beauty.

Why? They simply are more polished and "special". Powermatic makes a great machine, but it's still rough around the edges (more-so that one would hope at this price point).

How much "polish" does one get for 30-50% more? And I not sure how you define "rough". Those machines while Im sure they are nice, to me dont have anything that delivers that price. Same basic specs as the PM3520 and not much cast iron. Cast iron deadens vibration much better than welded steel of the same weight and they are roughly the same weight.
 

WoodWrangler

New User
Jeremy
How much "polish" does one get for 30-50% more? And I not sure how you define "rough". Those machines while Im sure they are nice, to me dont have anything that delivers that price. Same basic specs as the PM3520 and not much cast iron. Cast iron deadens vibration much better than welded steel of the same weight and they are roughly the same weight.

I never said it made "cents" :eek: afterall, I have the Powermatic!

I will say that the "polish" is not worth the money, but the American-made part ) of it does have allure (of Robust).
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Phil and I bought our PM 3520B's at the same time. Like him I'm totally happy with mine. I moved up from a Delta Midi which is a very nice lathe. Just wanted something bigger to turn larger items. The PM is incredibly stable and easy to use.

Adam did a good job of talking about accessories. I tend to like Nova Chucks simply because the jaws are interchangeable between all of their chucks. I upgraded from a Nova G3 to a SuperNova Chuck as part of the PM purchase and all of the jaws I had still fit the new larger chuck. The jaws for the Oneway chucks require jaws made specifically for each of their chucks.

A slow speed grinder and sharpening jigs are essential unless you only use carbide tools like the Easy Wood Tools.

Yes, you'll spend a lot on accessories and turning tools, but you can go slow as your needs change. you don't have to buy everything at once. Just don't buy HSS turning tools without having a way to sharpen them. You will need to sharpen often.

The PM 3520B does require single phase 220V wiring, the motor cannot be rewired for 120V. It is actually a 3 phase motor with the VFD built into the lathe.
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
I have had a 3520A for quite awhile. After I got the spindle threads straightened out so I could use an after-market chuck, it works just fine. until you want to turn a leg. Even though the name would imply 35" between centers, it doesn't work out that way. if i extend the tailstock beyond the end of the bed, i can get 30" between centers. So if you want to turn legs in addition to bowls, add another $400 to the purchase price for the bed extension.

Roy G
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
How much "polish" does one get for 30-50% more? And I not sure how you define "rough". Those machines while Im sure they are nice, to me dont have anything that delivers that price. Same basic specs as the PM3520 and not much cast iron. Cast iron deadens vibration much better than welded steel of the same weight and they are roughly the same weight.
You have to turn on a one-way to appreciate it.

This IS the Festool / LieNielson etc. debate. (it is not crystal clear to everyone what the extra money is for)

Most people don't have a chance to work for any period of time on various lathes. I bought my Jet 10-14 because I had an old Craftsman lathe and took a class - used the jet and realized what I was missing. (an added feature is its portability)

When I had the opportunity to try a PM and a One Way - whoa! what a world of difference from a small lathe. The fit and finish on the One way is much better IMHO!
There can be a "ringing" in the one-way (harmonics I think) with an out of balance blank but that great big tube and the steel ways deadens a lot of vibration...

As all the PM owners have said - the PM is a GREAT machine. How do you think a PM or One-way compares to a Robust - there isn't one - again, we are talking about a different class of machine...
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
For a lathe this large I would not consider anything less that the Stronghold chuck. Sometimes I would like something even a little bit bigger. But, that could be my lathe. It is old and in need of some TLC.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
For a lathe this large I would not consider anything less that the Stronghold chuck. Sometimes I would like something even a little bit bigger. But, that could be my lathe. It is old and in need of some TLC.

I would be curious how the Easy Chuck compares to the Stronghold. I know Stuart Kent swears by it and he does turn some pretty large stuff - I know even using the talon I have never had a problem...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top