Plane question
- Thread starter Rwe2156
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Buy one get one free (BOGO) is a good plan!
Mr. Conover uses a #5 or #5 1/2 but a #6 will do double duty.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/qa/shooting-boards-101.aspx
I don't have this one but sure like it overall except for the $. Ouch!
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=47298&cat=1,41182,41187,47298
And an interesting read.
http://www.leevalley.com/newsletters/Woodworking/2/5/article1.htm
Mr. Conover uses a #5 or #5 1/2 but a #6 will do double duty.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/qa/shooting-boards-101.aspx
I don't have this one but sure like it overall except for the $. Ouch!
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=47298&cat=1,41182,41187,47298
And an interesting read.
http://www.leevalley.com/newsletters/Woodworking/2/5/article1.htm
For a shooting board I think a #6, even a #5, would work fine. Aren't you doing mainly the shorter stretches of end grain?
+1 for the veritas LAJ. it has enough mass for shooting and the angle is great for endgrain. It's also just an awesome plane to have on hand. I'd agree that the standard jack is on the small size for the task and a #7 a bit too big for the ramp. The only issue w/ a plane not designed for shooting is the awkward hold Ken mentioned, but I've seen folks fasten a hotdog handle for this. Whatever you choose, make sure the sides are dead square. For wide boards >6" or panels, I plane to a line (no shooting board) w/ either a standard jack, which is probably my go to, or the LAJ.
Gotcha. I'm gonna get a Woodriver just need to decide on a 6 or 7.
I see Cosman and others using large planes say the weight helps.
I see Paul Sellers using a #4 saying thats all you need.
Don't think it really matters its just a 7 seems so big to shoot with.
I sometimes use my grandfather's Bailey #6 for jointing and it works fine. He carried it for decades as a house carpenter in New Jersey--mainly because he literally carried it to the jobsites everyday in his tool box and it definitely weighs less than a #7 or 8. He kept it sharpened like a smoothing plane, with just the tiniest bit of camber, and used it for facing and jointing. He also had an iron rabbet and a block plane. I would have thought that he had a jack or a smoother as well, but as far as I can tell he just used those three planes for everything.
I use an Ohio Tool made KK5 for shooting, but I have been considering using the #6 because of the weight.
I use an Ohio Tool made KK5 for shooting, but I have been considering using the #6 because of the weight.
I have two blade sets for my #6. One is sharpened with a strong camber for use as a jack or scrub plane and the other blade is sharpened like a smoother. But, the sides are not square nor equally out of square so i don't use it as a shooter.
I will get a real shooting plane someday, but for now my #7 does the job.
I will get a real shooting plane someday, but for now my #7 does the job.
If you don't have one I suggest you get a #62 (Bevel Up Jack with an adjustable mouth). It's the most versatile plane I own and has plenty of mass for shooting. Get a 30 degree (smoothing) and a 50 degree (stubborn grain) bevel irons to go with the 25 that it comes with and you have pretty much all planing situations covered. Add a hotdog handle to it and you can shoot all day. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Building the Hotdog Mk II for the LV LA Jack pics.html
I don't know anything about the Woodriver planes, but I do know that the Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen versions come ready to go and they hold their value should you need to sell them.
I don't know anything about the Woodriver planes, but I do know that the Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen versions come ready to go and they hold their value should you need to sell them.
I think it expired today or last night.
I'll get it reposted soon.
I'll get it reposted soon.
Anyone have experience with the WoodRivers planes? I seem to keep going back to them but I also saw a video the other day of Rob Cosman having to stop and fix one (something wrong with mouth) to make it work and he's supposedly a spokesman? The WR no. 6 has high rating and is quite a bit cheaper than LV or LN.
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Well, it's cheaper up front. But the advantage of the bevel-up planes (such as a #62 or the Veritas Low Angle Jack) is that by adding two more blades, you essentially have 3 planes for the price of 1.5. Low-angle for shooting end grain, high-angle for challenging figured wood and the standard angle for most other work. The VLAJ has a number of other features that make it an absolute joy to use. They are little things, like the set-screws to eliminate side-to-side movement of the blade. But at least for me (a relative novice with hand tools), they make a big difference. Before buying the LAJ, my previous experience was all with re-habbed old Stanleys from eBay. IMO you should at least consider a LAJ (WR, Veritas, LN).
Just my 2c.
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