New project. Help me spend some money

[Bryan S]

I ask this because I know you guys are real good at helping others spend money. :lol: I want to take advantage of Woodcrafts 10% off Saturday if I can and I've budgeted about $350 for additional tools.

I planning on building an entertainment center based on plans in Woodsmith vol 29 # 169 to hold the new LCD tv and audio eguip. Heres a link to a bigger pic.

I'll be shortening the width a bit to fit the space and will end up looking something similar to this. It will not have doors on the end like in the link.

I'll be using cherry. The plans call for a ply case construction with face frames a solid panel top, and solid wood base frame attached to the cabinet. I,ll probably do 2 drawers at the bottem instead of one.

The top panel will measure about 48" by 20". I have 3 24" woodcraft parallel clamps and I know thats not nearly enough. How many more do I need to glue up a panel this size? I'm guessing at least 4 more.

Jointery for the base calls for pocket hole construction and because its suposedly fairly easy thats what I was thinking of staying with. Of course I've never done pocket holes and dont have any pocket hole jigs. I am considering the Kreg r3 kit. Prolly be good for face frames too.

The shelves will be adjustable so I'll need a drilling jig for shelf pins. Sugestions? The Veritas jig is way out of my price range.

Case joinery calls for dados. I've got that covered with the router and undersize plywood bits. I learned how not to muck those up last time I did this.

I've never done drawer construction so I'm not sure what I'ill need or run into there.

These are a bunch of questions but I know you folks are up to it. I probably haven't coverd everything so if you see any thing or altenatives I'm all ears

 

[Canuck]

The shelves will be adjustable so I'll need a drilling jig for shelf pins. Sugestions? The Veritas jig is way out of my price range.

Bryan,

The last time I drilled for adjustable shelves I order one of these jigs from our friends at Rockler.....

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876&filter=shelf driilling%
20jig

It worked great and came with its own centering bit that fit the pins perfectly. As far as clamps are concerned, "you can never have too many clamps". Seven 24"'s should be fine for the top glueup. (Four on the bottom and three on top. ...... But, then you will have to wait for the top to dry before using the clamps on the faceframe or bottom!:cry2: But wait you are using pocket screws ..............Never mind!:violent1:

Good luck. Looks like it will me a really nice looking setup and very functional!

Wayne

 

[toolferone]

I love my Kreg K3 and would buy it again at twice the price if I had to.

 

[TBone]

I have the Kreg jig without the dust collection and it's worth every penny. I have the same shelf drilling jig as Wayne, picked it up at Klingspor in Raleigh. I would buy both again.

 

[Bryan S]

I would go about completely differently, so don't listen to me.

Ok Mike you left me in suspense here.

 

[Keye]

I also agree the Kreg jig is worth the money.

As for the drilling jig save your money for other things and make your own. Glue three pieces of 3/4 scrap cherry, you only need a small jig for this, and drill your holes on a drill press with a brad point bit. I just wrap a piece of tape around my drill bit as my depth control so I don't drill through the side of the cabinet.

I also use a brad point bit to drill the holes in the cabinet. If you use a little care this home made jig can be used multiple times. I have several made from oak that I have used for years.

Make sure to mark the top and bottom of the jig on both sides. Yep, learned this the hard way.:rotflm:

 

[Shayne]

Bryan,

I recently made an entertainment center as well. I posted some pictures in my photo album if you are interested: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=1097&ppuser=48

Here is one of the completed photos:


I too investigated the plan you referenced however in my case I was trying to match existing furniture in the room already so I designed my own thing. I'd be happy to share specifics about what I encountered/overcame, just let me know. I used all cherry, no plywood.

With regard to clamps, I would suggest buying clamps whenever you can afford them. I remember an article last year in Woodsmith (or maybe Wood) reviewing which bar clamps are "best". I can check my stash later and check to see what they recommended if someone else doesn't remember off the top of their head first. Although from looking at the pictures, they all seem similar enough that is might not matter much. When I buy clamps, I buy the sets where you get 4 clamps as this saves some money. I didn't see any Bessey sets on Woodcrafts web site so I don't know if you can get them there, but Amazon has a good price on this set: http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-KBK244...d_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204132810&sr=8-2

I see there is a Woodcraft set of 4 clamps which is slightly cheaper than the Bessey set, however the Bessey set comes with 2 40" clamps versus the 2 31" clamps that come with the Woodcraft set. Something to consider.


As for the shelf system, I just went with a fixed location on my design being careful to measure the items I wanted to put into the spaces.

As for the draws, I have the PC dovetail jig which worked great and was very efficient. There are other options if you don't have access to a jig which are commonly discussed for draw construction. One other point here, you can buy prefinished drawer parts which I did not use. Looking back I kind of wish I did. I know you can guy them at the NC Hardware store in Gibsonville but I'm sure other suppliers have them too.

Good luck at Woodcraft and if you can go early you will save an extra 5% on non-power tools.

Shayne

 

[Steve W]

I'll vouch for the PC dovetail jig -- it'll only set you back about a c-note.

The Kreg pocket hole guide is definitely worth having as well. I've also used biscuits for face-frames but find the pocket-hole route is easier to get right and somewhat reversible if you make a small mistake.

I'd make the shelves fixed as well. Remember to leave at least an inch over your amplifier/receiver for air circulation.

I can lend you the Kreg or dovetail jig if you don't want to spend the money.

:kermit: Steve

 

[dancam]

You may want to consider some vents on the back of the shelves as well as the back of the cabinet. I would also consider an in-line fan for the electronic components. If you're going to have a DirecTv DVR in there, they run pretty hot. I recently purchased one from Rockler and will be sending it back as it's way too noisy. I'm going to order a 12v model from Crutchfield.

 

[Steve W]

Dan, a couple of quick, dirty and cheap ways to tone down the noise from some AC fans:

1) Put an ac-rated capacitor in series with the fan. You'll need to know the draw of the fan @ 120VAC (probably small) and insert an AC-rated capacitor in series. This will reduce the speed of the fan. Capacitor value will depend on what speed becomes acceptable for noise. 1 uF could be a starting point.

2.) (recommended): Cut a hole for a second fan, purchase an identical (or near-identical -- doesn't have to be exact) fan and wire it in series with the existing fan. Both fans will spin at half speed. The airflow should be nearly the flow of one fan at full speed but a LOT quieter.

3.) Use a speed control to turn down the fan speed until it's not objectionable. Some cooling is better than none at this stage.

4.) Leave the back open to allow full airflow.

My 0.02

:kermit: Steve