Need advice on cutting floor molding in place

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BrianBDH

New User
Brian
This is more carpentry than woodworking, but hopefully somebody can give me a good tip.

I am adding a doorway in a wall between two bedrooms. I am good with the framing out of the opening and fitting the pre-hung door. What I need is a good way to cut the floor molding at the correct spot to meet the new door casing.

I don't have one of those reciprocating saws. That seems like the kind of cut it was made for.

What would you guys suggest?

Thanks,

Brian
 
B

BrianBDH

New User
Brian
Bobby - I really appreciate the offer. I am in a bit of a bind as I am trying to do this tomorrow afternoon and I don't have time to run to Pittsboro.

I am thinking I could possibly use my side-grinder and a cut-off wheel, but I'm sure that does more burning than cutting.

I don't even mind cutting through the drywall with a hand saw if i have to. Between a bit of joint compound and the edge of the door casing, it should be easy enough to hide. I could probably use a sharp chisel for the bottom where the 2x4 is behind the drywall.
 
Mark Gottesman

Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
Why not take off the moulding. Locate the nails and punch them through. Take a putty knife and pry it off.

Or drill out a line on the waste side and pare back.
 
B

BrianBDH

New User
Brian
That's what I am trying to avoid. Taking off the moulding always has collateral damage and repair in my history.

The cut-off wheel on my Dremel tool is another option that does an okay job.
 
bobby g

bobby g

Bob
Corporate Member
junquecol said:
Why not remove molding and using a pair of nippers finish pulling them through. Leaves puttied holes in place on front side.
Click to expand...

Be careful, removing the moulding will often mess up the drywall/paint because of the caulk on the top of the baseboard.

bobby g
 
T

tryingtokeepmyfingers

New User
Tat
I second the Multi Tool...... I hated paying for mine but when I need it nothing else will make some things so easy....

i just hate paying for the blades.... Thanks to off brand blades.....
 
ehpoole

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
tryingtokeepmyfingers said:
I second the Multi Tool...... I hated paying for mine but when I need it nothing else will make some things so easy....

i just hate paying for the blades.... Thanks to off brand blades.....
Click to expand...

I use my Fein for detail sanding as well, which helps to offset the investment since I spend a lot more time sanding in tight areas than I do actually sawing. But, when you need make a plunge cut in tight quarters nothing else can beat it.
 
J

jhreed

New User
james
What is wrong with a wood chisel? Mark the cut line. Scribe the cut line. Use the chisel to make the cut.
 
Trent Mason

Trent Mason

New User
Trent Mason
If it were me, I'd pull the baseboard and shoe moulding before I framed out the door and cut it to fit once the casing is in place. It may seem like more work, but I think it makes it quite a bit easier.

If you do decide to go that route, take a utility knife and gently cut the caulk lines between the baseboard and drywall and the shoe moulding (this will prevent the caulk from ripping the paint off of the wall when you pull the moulding). Remove any shoe moulding (or quarter round) first. After that, use a pry bar and starting in one corner, gently try to pry the moulding from the wall by tapping the pry bar underneath the baseboard and prying up from the floor. This will keep you from tearing up the drywall. Once you get one side loose, you should be able to pull the rest by hand.

Once the moulding is out, case in your door and cut the moulding to fit using a miter saw, hand saw, (tons of options there since the cuts are 90 degrees). Then nail your moulding back in, re caulk and paint it.

HTH
 
B

BrianBDH

New User
Brian
Thanks everybody for the input. Special thanks to Bobby G for offering to let me borrow his multi-tool. After all the comments, I went to Northern Tool and bought an oscillating tool for $50. I know it isn't the best out there, but man I am hooked on this tool from now on! I used it for the molding and several other cuts that I am not sure how else I would have made.

This is the best tool I've bought since my Stihl chainsaw you all convinced me to buy about this time last year. That, by the way, is still the best saw I have every used and still runs like a champ. My neighbor lost a Bradford Pear a couple of weeks ago to a big wind-storm. He diddled around with an old Homelite for a couple of days cutting twigs. I went over and withing 30 minutes cut a trailer load of decent sized stove wood. All I do is sharpen it every time I use it by giving each tooth 2-3 strokes. Cuts like a dream.

As always, I appreciate the good advice.

Brian
 
bobby g

bobby g

Bob
Corporate Member
BrianBDH said:
Thanks everybody for the input. Special thanks to Bobby G for offering to let me borrow his multi-tool. After all the comments, I went to Northern Tool and bought an oscillating tool for $50. I know it isn't the best out there, but man I am hooked on this tool from now on! I used it for the molding and several other cuts that I am not sure how else I would have made.


This is the best tool I've bought since my Stihl chainsaw you all convinced me to buy about this time last year. That, by the way, is still the best saw I have every used and still runs like a champ. My neighbor lost a Bradford Pear a couple of weeks ago to a big wind-storm. He diddled around with an old Homelite for a couple of days cutting twigs. I went over and withing 30 minutes cut a trailer load of decent sized stove wood. All I do is sharpen it every time I use it by giving each tooth 2-3 strokes. Cuts like a dream.

As always, I appreciate the good advice.

Brian
Click to expand...


Glad it worked out for you Brian.

bobby g
 
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