Milling question

[tdukes]

Hi Guys!

I have a Dewalt lunch box planer and an old Powermatic 6" jointer.

My question is, when I have to flatten a board wider than 6", is it better to start at the planer or rip the board to fit the jointer? I've been going the planer route, then going back to the jointer to do an edge, since I might mis-figure saw cuts/kerfs and end up with a piece too narrow.

Also, how much waste should be built in when purchasing lumber?

TIA

 

[KenOfCary]

Based on when those were my only planing tools, you've seen to come up with the same solution that I came up with then. I've upgraded my jointer to a 6" x 72" bed and a 15" planer, but I made due with about what you're dealing with for a long time.

You seem to have it figured out. Plane things as flat as possible and then get a 90 on an edge and you are good to go. The rest is just finesse. Good luck.

 

[Fishbucket]

Build a jointing bed/sled for your planer. Then you can flatten any width your planer can handle.

 

[mkepke]

Hi Guys!

I have a Dewalt lunch box planer and an old Powermatic 6" jointer.

My question is, when I have to flatten a board wider than 6", is it better to start at the planer or rip the board to fit the jointer? I've been going the planer route, then going back to the jointer to do an edge, since I might mis-figure saw cuts/kerfs and end up with a piece too narrow.

Also, how much waste should be built in when purchasing lumber?

TIA

Depends - if your project calls for finished stock less than 6" or involves paint, I would rip the boards down and then joint. For wide 'show boards', I wouldn't rip them down.

There are several ways to deal with wide boards:
1 - use a planer sled like Joe described
2 - use a hand plane to knock off the high-spots, then use the planer to take light cuts on alternating faces. You'll get close to flat as long as the board isn't too long or bent to begin with. Not recommended if you need a truly flat (planer) surface- which often is not needed.
3 - remove the jointer guard a la https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/wideboards

Waste - it depends on the project. Small projects like boxes where it will be easy to cut lots of pieces out of common sizes of lumber say 15-20% waste. With large projects like dining tables and full-size doors often only certain boards will fit your Bill of Materials so the waste can be much higher - you should plan to have enough "waste" to cut an extra table leg, an extra table-board, etc rather than trying to hit a % of the board-foot total.

Note that your contingency plan can be "I'm going to drive back to the lumber store and get more material if I need too". It's not a risk-free contingency plan tho

-Mark

 

[Jeff]

I use a 20-30% bf overage for any lumber that I buy and I also pay about $1/bf extra to have it surfaced S4S before delivery.

I have a 12" DeWalt 734 planer but no jointer (no space for one either). A Freud "glue line" rip blade on a table saw does a pretty good job edging a board too, as does a router with a bearing bit and straight edge template.

 

[Henry W]

I have a 12" DeWalt 734 planer but no jointer (no space for one either). A Freud "glue line" rip blade on a table saw does a pretty good job edging a board too, as does a router with a bearing bit and straight edge template.

Sounds like Jeff's setup / workflow is much like mine. I buy S2S lumber mostly, and use a TS to create edge glue surface. I use my planer (floor model, but still only 12" wide) for wider boards (>2-2.5"), but my TS to simply "rip' narrower boards to thickness. Router is used, but rarely, for glue-able edges. Also, like Jeff, I do not own a jointer, and likely couldn't squeeze one in either.

 

[tdukes]

I use a 20-30% bf overage for any lumber that I buy and I also pay about $1/bf extra to have it surfaced S4S before delivery.

I have a 12" DeWalt 734 planer but no jointer (no space for one either). A Freud "glue line" rip blade on a table saw does a pretty good job edging a board too, as does a router with a bearing bit and straight edge template.

I thought about paying the extra for S4S. Have you had good results in the boards you buy that way?

 

[tdukes]

Depends - if your project calls for finished stock less than 6" or involves paint, I would rip the boards down and then joint. For wide 'show boards', I wouldn't rip them down.

There are several ways to deal with wide boards:
1 - use a planer sled like Joe described
2 - use a hand plane to knock off the high-spots, then use the planer to take light cuts on alternating faces. You'll get close to flat as long as the board isn't too long or bent to begin with. Not recommended if you need a truly flat (planer) surface- which often is not needed.
3 - remove the jointer guard a la https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/joinery/wideboards

Waste - it depends on the project. Small projects like boxes where it will be easy to cut lots of pieces out of common sizes of lumber say 15-20% waste. With large projects like dining tables and full-size doors often only certain boards will fit your Bill of Materials so the waste can be much higher - you should plan to have enough "waste" to cut an extra table leg, an extra table-board, etc rather than trying to hit a % of the board-foot total.

Note that your contingency plan can be "I'm going to drive back to the lumber store and get more material if I need too". It's not a risk-free contingency plan tho

-Mark

Removing the guard on my jointer has rolled through my head several times.

Might have to give that a try when its just a little oversized.

 

[Jeff]

Yes the S4S if fine. Most of my wood comes from The Hardwood Store of NC so I can't speak to other suppliers.

 

[CDPeters]

The planer sled is typically the route I choose when I have stock too wide for the jointer and too out-of-flat to use.

 

[tdukes]

Yes the S4S if fine. Most of my wood comes from The Hardwood Store of NC so I can't speak to other suppliers.

How does the S4S come, thickness wise? 4/4=3/4 6/4=1-1/2? Or do you specify when you order?

 

[Jeff]

How does the S4S come, thickness wise? 4/4=3/4 6/4=1-1/2 6Or do you specify when you order?

I specify the finished thickness and minimum width that I want to receive; 4/4 will end up at 3/4" but unlikely to finish at 13/16 or 7/8" so I'd buy 5/4 and accept the 3/8" waste (3/16" planed off of each face) which isn't a big deal to me.

6/4=1-1/2

Yes, it's 1.5" t off of the shelf but won't finish S2S at that dimension.

I have some 8/4 eastern white pine and poplar that was 8/4 and finished S4S at 1 7/8".

 

[tdukes]

I specify the finished thickness and minimum width that I want to receive; 4/4 will end up at 3/4" but unlikely to finish at 13/16 or 7/8" so I'd buy 5/4 and accept the 3/8" waste (3/16" planed off of each face) which isn't a big deal to me.



Yes, it's 1.5" t off of the shelf but won't finish S2S at that dimension.

I have some 8/4 eastern white pine and poplar that was 8/4 and finished S4S at 1 7/8".

Thanks,

Right, 6/4=1-1/2 didn't think before I typed. I guess if you want S4S 1-1/2 you'd have to buy 8/4.

I may look into gong that route next time I buy wood. The lumber folks have much better equipment than I could ever afford or need plus they have more experience.

Thanks!

 

[Cato]

I have a similar set up, 6 inch jointer and 13 inch Dewalt planer. I usually edge joint and then rip to fit the jointer for flattening and then to the planer for surfacing to final thickness. I always figure in enough overage for an extra table leg and/or project boards either for grain matching or to fix a mistake.