Made to Order

[4yanks]

Jerry,

As with all your work, it looks great. I am also interested in how you did the game board portion.

Willie

 

[LeftyTom]

Looks snap-diggity to me! :icon_thum

 

[cpowell]

Just completed a game table for a client of Wooden Stone Gallery. Pictures are not great but you will see the jist of it.

Hard maple was the wood of choice. The top is 28"x28" with the game board being 16" square with 1/2" cherry banding around the playing field.

Criticism welcome.

Jerry

I don't see anything thing to improve on.

I like the selection of cherry banding. How is the gameboard fastened?

Chuck

 

[DavidF]

Nice table Jerry, Pics don't do it justice I am sure.

 

[walnutjerry]

Nothing to criticize. Looks great to me. How did you do the squares?

Larry and others that have asked questions about the game table-----

The board ia actually one piece face from a good grade plywood. Yea, I know, not the traditional way. But it is more stable than solid wood. I have been using my method for nearly 15 years and have not had a "come back" because of checking, warping, bowing etc.

I call it "my" method because I have not seen anyone else using it. So here I am giving my secrets away.

Accuracy is important from the start. For a board with 2" squares, cut the blank 16" square. Lay off the lines on all 4 sides on 2" centers. Using s straight edge and a dremel tool w/spherical bit to "rout" the lines. The bit is 1/16" diameter. The depth is 1/32" or less. Apply the banding around the board with glue next, paying close attention to being flush on the top. After glue is dry, rout around the perimeter with the bit centered on the joint. Darken the "grooves" with a permanent black marker, I use a fine Sharpie or another brand of fine tip that is nylon or fibrous tip.

Then comes hand painting the alternate squares. After the squares are painted (usually 3 coats of acrylic w/sanding in between) I go over the lines again. The top coat is usually satin urethane sprayed on. Again, about 3 coats with light sanding in between. Allow the finish to cure and buff out lightly with 400 grit, fine woven pad and brown paper.

The top of the table is fastened to the frame with screws through the upside down "L" shaped pieces that serve as drawer slides also. The board is attached with screws also through a 1/2" block that is fastened to the underside of the perimeter of the table top.

That is all there is to it!!

Jerry