Lumber from fb Marketplace

jfynyson

Jeremy
User
Questions regarding facebook Marketplace lumber purchases...
  • Has anyone purchased lumber from the facebook Marketplace consistently vs a one-off (i.e. from a sawyer) ?
  • If so, any suggestions for a source around the Piedmont Triad area ?
  • I understand the risks (insects, case hardening or high moisture, bad warping, etc...) vs a more reliable vendor but are there other watch outs ?
 

zapdafish

Steve
Corporate Member
ive done a few one-offs and they ended up being from sawyers. Can often get really good deals if you have a jointer and planer to clean up the wood. Ive gone for around 20bd ft and come home with much more just because they are willing to deal and might have some wood they just want to get rid of and throw extra stuff in just to make a sale. Ive still got some 12/4 Ash when they guy said $10 a board for anything you see, lol. However, I'd still prefer to buy from a place like the hardwoodstore where its already surfaced so you can see what your getting. It's just a pain too have to drive so far to get to them but the time spent driving means less time cleaning up the wood and alot less wood waste
 

blackhawk

Brad
Corporate Member
I built a Nyle powered kiln last year and have started drying and selling lumber that I saw on my Lucas mill. If you are buying lumber from an unknown source, you need to invest in a really good moisture meter. You need either a pinless meter that will read to 3/4" deep or pin type with a slide hammer. I have both an Orion 930 and Lignomat K (with slide hammer). Most of your inexpensive meters are only going to measure down to 1/4" depth. A good meter is going to tell you the moisture content in the core of the wood which really makes a difference once you go thicker than 4/4.

A lot of folks kiln dry lumber but they don't get it hot enough to sterilize it from bugs. The official guide is that the core of the lumber must reach a temperature of 133°F for at least 30 minutes. If sterilization is important, you should ask for a record of it. I take dated/timed pictures of my kiln control temperature readings for every load as proof of the temperature in the kiln and how long it was held. I also actually insert a temperature probe into the core of a sample piece to be sure the wood reaches the 133°F during the sterilization cycle.

A moisture meter is also important even if the wood was properly kiln dried but was stored afterward incorrectly. If lumber is kiln dried to 6 or 8% then it is stored in a barn or shed, it will gain back moisture to equalize with the environment that it is in.
 

jfynyson

Jeremy
User
I built a Nyle powered kiln last year and have started drying and selling lumber that I saw on my Lucas mill. If you are buying lumber from an unknown source, you need to invest in a really good moisture meter. You need either a pinless meter that will read to 3/4" deep or pin type with a slide hammer. I have both an Orion 930 and Lignomat K (with slide hammer). Most of your inexpensive meters are only going to measure down to 1/4" depth. A good meter is going to tell you the moisture content in the core of the wood which really makes a difference once you go thicker than 4/4.

A lot of folks kiln dry lumber but they don't get it hot enough to sterilize it from bugs. The official guide is that the core of the lumber must reach a temperature of 133°F for at least 30 minutes. If sterilization is important, you should ask for a record of it. I take dated/timed pictures of my kiln control temperature readings for every load as proof of the temperature in the kiln and how long it was held. I also actually insert a temperature probe into the core of a sample piece to be sure the wood reaches the 133°F during the sterilization cycle.

A moisture meter is also important even if the wood was properly kiln dried but was stored afterward incorrectly. If lumber is kiln dried to 6 or 8% then it is stored in a barn or shed, it will gain back moisture to equalize with the environment that it is in.
Curious why, if you're selling lumber, didn't you go with the Orion 950 model that has built in data collection, temp & humidity sensing ? Seems like a good investment/insurance policy if selling lumber. Was it that you already had the 930 or just the 950 price difference ? I only ask as I have the 950 on my wishlist for when I start timbering my lumber when clearly our property one day to build...my aim is to get some white oaks and maples milled up.
 

blackhawk

Brad
Corporate Member
I have a remote monitoring system for my kiln that uses 7 sets of probes. The probes run via cables to my control box outside of the kiln. The cables run into a Lignomat switch box. Then my Lignometer K hooks into the switch box with the same cable used for the slide hammer. This way I can keep a check of the MC via the 7 probes without ever having to open the kiln door. Every time you open the door you let out heat and let in moisture. I check the MC readings 1-2 times per day and input my readings into an Excel file. This allows me to graph the data which is very helpful. The temperature and humidity is controlled by the Nyle unit and the display shows these values. With this, I didn't have a need for data collection, temp, and humidity sensing with the Orion. Plus, I found the 930 on sale. :)

I bought the Orion 930 before I decided to build a kiln. If I could do it over again, I would get the Ligno-VersaTec only. It is both pinless and pin capable with a slide hammer. In pinless mode it can read 1/4" and 3/4" deep. Probes are always going to be the most accurate. Lignomat sells pins for their slide hammer that will reach 2" deep. The only downside is the pins make small holes with every reading, but you can re-use the same holes if you are monitoring a piece while it is air drying.
 

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