Could someone tell me how to go about finishing an oak project so the grain is filled in and smooth to the touch? Lorraine
Looking for smooth surface on oak
- Thread starter lwhughes149
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I think you are going to have to use a grain filler. You can either get a spray on kind, or a wipe on. Either will work and will make for a smooth finish.
I agree with Jeremy - I have used the wipe on and the brush on and I like them both - makes for a good finish
Lorraine,
Woodguy showed us this in a class I took a few years ago and I thought he was joking when he started talking about it but it works really well and you probably have it already in your painting supplies. Here's the schedule:
Start with sanding through the grits to 150 grit then smear drywall spackling tinted with brown acrylic paint (cheap in the craft section of your favorite Wallyworld) close to the tone you're after over the area needing filled. Let it dry for a few minutes. Scrub well diagonally to the grain with a piece of burlap and let dry completely. Sand w/220 and repeat application/rub/dry/ sand until the grain is filled to your satisfaction then apply the finish you want.
Woodguy showed us this in a class I took a few years ago and I thought he was joking when he started talking about it but it works really well and you probably have it already in your painting supplies. Here's the schedule:
Start with sanding through the grits to 150 grit then smear drywall spackling tinted with brown acrylic paint (cheap in the craft section of your favorite Wallyworld) close to the tone you're after over the area needing filled. Let it dry for a few minutes. Scrub well diagonally to the grain with a piece of burlap and let dry completely. Sand w/220 and repeat application/rub/dry/ sand until the grain is filled to your satisfaction then apply the finish you want.
Lorraine,
A high solids filler is the easiest way. Some water based fillers (I use Target) dry quickly and are easy to apply and sand off. Just apply, work it down into the grain by wiping across grain in different directions, then scrape diagonally across grain with a plastic wiper (credit card works well).
When dry, sand surface smooth (220) and check if it needs a second application. Don't be afraid of sanding ALL the filler off the surface leaving it only in the grain pockets.
But if you plan on staining your project, know that some fillers will inhibit the coloring a little bit. Stains, dyes and finishes sometimes don't darken the piece as well as if filler was not used. That's why they always say...."practice on a similar piece of wood first".
Good Luck
A high solids filler is the easiest way. Some water based fillers (I use Target) dry quickly and are easy to apply and sand off. Just apply, work it down into the grain by wiping across grain in different directions, then scrape diagonally across grain with a plastic wiper (credit card works well).
When dry, sand surface smooth (220) and check if it needs a second application. Don't be afraid of sanding ALL the filler off the surface leaving it only in the grain pockets.
But if you plan on staining your project, know that some fillers will inhibit the coloring a little bit. Stains, dyes and finishes sometimes don't darken the piece as well as if filler was not used. That's why they always say...."practice on a similar piece of wood first".
Good Luck
I've used boiled linseed oil on a couple of projects...all you have to do is pour the oil on the surface, sand with a 200 or so grit sandpaper until you get a good slurry going, the sanding action will pack the pores with the slurry. Let it dry overnight and sand off the excess until you get the results that you're looking for.
One of the things I have read about is very near what tarhead mentioned. The author used plaster of paris tinted to fill the grain. Basically the same procedure woodguy presented to tarhead.
Jerry
Jerry
I have used the dust from my ROS and combined it with some of the finish that I plan to use on the project. Use it like a woodfiller, let it dry, and then finish sand it.
>> Laquer sanding sealer FTW.
Only if you are going to use a non-poly finish. Lacquer based sanding sealers contain stearates or soaps to make it easy to sand. But, It also creates adhesion problems for poly varnishes and waterbornes.
Always match your sanding sealer (if used) to the top coat to be sure there are no compatibility problems.
Also, whatever is planned to be used as a grain filler should be tested on scrap from the project. Go through the whole finishing process as some grain fillers do not look good under certain top coats. Also, testing the grain filler will let you learn how to use it. Don't let your project be your learning experience.
Only if you are going to use a non-poly finish. Lacquer based sanding sealers contain stearates or soaps to make it easy to sand. But, It also creates adhesion problems for poly varnishes and waterbornes.
Always match your sanding sealer (if used) to the top coat to be sure there are no compatibility problems.
Also, whatever is planned to be used as a grain filler should be tested on scrap from the project. Go through the whole finishing process as some grain fillers do not look good under certain top coats. Also, testing the grain filler will let you learn how to use it. Don't let your project be your learning experience.
J
jeff...
Heavy boded sanding sealer if your going with a clear finish and want to retain the natural beauty of the wood... block sand lightly inbetween coats.
http://www.moffitt-smith.com/Produc...nding-Sealer---(2)-13oz-cans__M102-04912.aspx
http://www.moffitt-smith.com/Produc...nding-Sealer---(2)-13oz-cans__M102-04912.aspx
M
McRabbet
Lorraine,
I've used Behlen's Pore-o-Pac Natural Grain Filler ($19.95/quart, but it goes a long way) on open pored wood with excellent results. In some ways, it is similar to the dry wall compound that WG uses, but it is formulated for this specific purpose. It is also available in Mahogany and Medium Walnut formulations.
While my application was with African Mahogany (A.M.), I think you should have similar results with Red Oak. This product is a professional quality grain filler that is applied slightly reduced (I reduced it 4 parts P-o-P :1 part reducer) with a rubber squeegee to force the solids into the pores. After the filler dries, the wood is lightly sanded and the sealer coat applied (I used Behlen's Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish reduced 50:50 with reducer).
Here are some pictures showing the results. The first is the finished wood top with an application of reduced P-o-P (note the squeegee on the can at the top of the picture). Note that the filler is white on application and it needs to be lightly sanded after it dries. Before finishing, all of the residue needs to be tacked off and the surface vacuumed.
The second picture is a close-up of the A.M. with just the sealer coat on it -- you can see the pores are dark in color but are filled completely. I put three more coats at full strength after this picture.
And finally, here it is when finished and installed.
I've used Behlen's Pore-o-Pac Natural Grain Filler ($19.95/quart, but it goes a long way) on open pored wood with excellent results. In some ways, it is similar to the dry wall compound that WG uses, but it is formulated for this specific purpose. It is also available in Mahogany and Medium Walnut formulations.
While my application was with African Mahogany (A.M.), I think you should have similar results with Red Oak. This product is a professional quality grain filler that is applied slightly reduced (I reduced it 4 parts P-o-P :1 part reducer) with a rubber squeegee to force the solids into the pores. After the filler dries, the wood is lightly sanded and the sealer coat applied (I used Behlen's Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish reduced 50:50 with reducer).
Here are some pictures showing the results. The first is the finished wood top with an application of reduced P-o-P (note the squeegee on the can at the top of the picture). Note that the filler is white on application and it needs to be lightly sanded after it dries. Before finishing, all of the residue needs to be tacked off and the surface vacuumed.
The second picture is a close-up of the A.M. with just the sealer coat on it -- you can see the pores are dark in color but are filled completely. I put three more coats at full strength after this picture.
And finally, here it is when finished and installed.
We never run out of things to learn, do we? Thank you all for the valuable information, I will put it to use. I never thought about filling the grain when I finished my oak china cabinet. I just finished a childs hutch for my sister and noticed the grain. I am considering going back and finishing her hutch again so I can get a smooth surface. Thanks to all. Happy Thanksgiving as well. Lorraine
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