Left tilt TS or a right tilt TS?

[Sharp Blade]

I'm trying to sell my motorcycle and would like to buy a new bandsaw ans table saw. In looking at the TS, why would I need a Right tilt over a left tilt arbor? Or vice versa.

 

[jeff...]

I'm trying to sell my motorcycle and would like to buy a new bandsaw ans table saw. In looking at the TS, why would I need a Right tilt over a left tilt arbor? Or vice versa.

Mine tilts to the left and I like it that way - don;t need to be concerned with the blade pinching the wood in between the fence and blade like you do with a right hand tilt.

 

[Bas]

What are you used to? That is probably the most important consideration. All things being equal, left tilt is preferable because of the reason Jeff mentioned. This assumes of course you keep the fence on the right hand side of the blade (which is the most common method).

 

[FredP]

mine is right tilt. if I rip on a bevel I move the fence to the left side of the blade. most bevel rips I do are only 6" wide or less. with the right tilt your fence will read true no mater what blade you use because it is set to the arbor flange side of the blade. dado blades will not require any extra effort to set the fence because...... drum roll please..... the first blade of the dado set is against the arbor flange. both right and left tilt saws have advantages and setbacks. ultimately you gotta decide. my choice was made for me because the realy cheap unisaw I found when I had the $$$ and the stars were aligned was a right tilt. no regrets here.:gar-La;

 

[Ranger Dailey]

Mine is Left tilt. I have always been curious about the pros and cons of a right tilt.

 

[Gofor]

If you get a right tilt, just remember the arbor nut is left-hand thread. Best way to not get confused is to remember the blade tightens with the nut wrench moving toward the back of the table, and loosens by pulling it to the front. That is for left or right tilt.

An argument can be made that the right tilt is a bit safer for a right-hander when cutting bevels, because you have less tendency to stand in front of the blade, where that piece trapped between the table and the beveled blade will come shooting back at you.

Go

 

[BobN]

I have had both. My first 2 saws were left tilt, the saw I am using now is a right tilt Unisaw that I got in 96.

Now that I have used both there's no way that I would go back to a left tilt table saw. The right tilt saw is so much easier to use and more accurate. You don't have to measure every time you used a different blade or a dado.

Bob

 

[Trent Mason]

This is really interesting. I didn't even know they made right-tilt tablesaws. :slap:

 

[Bas]

This is really interesting. I didn't even know they made right-tilt tablesaws. :slap:

I think right tilt used to be the standard. Every blade has markings on the left side (with teeth pointing downwards). On a right tilt saw, that means the markings are readable. On a left tilt saw, the markings go towards the arbor.

Fred makes a good point about the tape measure on your fence system. If you use a dado blade, it's not usable - not unless you do some math and figure out the delta compared to your normal 1/8" blade.

As you can see, there are pros and cons to everything, and it comes down to what you're used to. If you don't have a preference, do like Fred did and buy the first saw that's a good deal. Then declare that your standard

 

[Gotcha6]

If you don't have a preference, do like Fred did and buy the first saw that's a good deal. Then declare that your standard

Yea, verily.:eusa_clap

 

[DaveO]

I have a right-tilt saw, and move my fence to the left of the blade when making beveled cuts. I didn't think anything of that until I was making a cabinet with 45º (22½º bevel cuts) corners. I had planned to use plywood construction. But then it dawned on me that I couldn't cut the bevel width with the fence to the left, and cutting it with the fence to the right would result in the good face of the ply being down on the table. I might have pulled it off with a good blade, but instead I decided to go with frame and panel for the sides as I could rip the narrower frame pieces the way I was comfortable.

That has been the only time I wished I had a left-tilt saw. It was a big enough issue for me (cost me $$) that the next saw I get will be left-tilt.
MTCW,
Dave

 

[WoodWrangler]

Now this statement might not get good agreement, but when I got into woodworking I was lead to believe that woodworkers favored the left tilt saw ... and so that's what I got and have had (on my second one now).

I can see how a right tilt offers some conveniences, but I've never needed those and the safety of a left tilt would seem to send me in that direction.

 

[Travis Porter]

I find yours and Fred's comments interesting. The PM-66 I had for many years was left tilt and all I ever heard was how much better it was for bevels and such. Come to think of it, my Felder is right tilt. The whole tape measure thing is something I never considered was easier on a right tilt saw, but it was DEFINITELY a negative on the PM-66. Every time I changed a blade or tilted it, I had to measure by hand. Thinking about it, I believe the left tilt thing has been more marketing than

I have had both. My first 2 saws were left tilt, the saw I am using now is a right tilt Unisaw that I got in 96.

Now that I have used both there's no way that I would go back to a left tilt table saw. The right tilt saw is so much easier to use and more accurate. You don't have to measure every time you used a different blade or a dado.

Bob