Update -user notes on a "flooring saw"?
(Note - content also posted as a new thread in this forum)
Here are two shots of the laminate floor install - 4 rooms total, a few stairs and a landing. One room has the wall base re-installed, the second one not yet.
As to the tools I used - primarily a rubber mallet and a notched 20" piece of wood to distribute the force of the persuasion!
Cutting? For straight cross-cuts and rips I used the Skil flooring saw borrowed from Skymaster (Jack) Hats off and kudos to Jack for the timely and generous offer!. That proved to be a very useful tool indeed. A good jigsaw was also invaluable for the intricate cuts that were not straight rips or crosscuts.
Initially I had the Skil flooring saw on the floor, but quickly realized that meant one more cycle of dropping down and standing up again. Eventually I set up my WorkMate as a bench; the fit wasn't perfect for the saw, but it was very usable.
I found the Skil flooring saw to be quick to use and accurate (enough) for cross cuts (90% of the cuts), both at 90 and 45 degrees. I generally used a Sharpie to mark where the cut should be - and then simply lined that mark up with the kerf in the base table of the flooring saw. Zip the saw across and voila!
- Changing the cut angle was very quick, with presets at many angles; I only need 90 and 45.
- The time to change over between rip and crosscut functions was similar to my TS at home (where I remove TS fence, but have to find a place to put it - then find miter gauge and use it...). I would hate to change over frequently, but ripping is only required for one edge of the room - and a small minority of cuts.
- Rip capacity is presumably up to 9" or something like that, and the cross cut capacity is way more than that (material up to 3/4" thick). The rail mounts for the saw do however severely limit the size of the off cut on a rip cut; you can have a wide piece between blade and fence, but only a narrow (less than 1.5"?) piece being rip/cut off. I could make any cut I needed (the material had 7.5" face, and so about 7.8" with interlocking tongues), but sometimes I had to reverse my piece so the 'off cut' was between the fence and blade, instead of my piece of interest. With a few adjustments to account for the size of interlocking portions of the laminate flooring, it worked out fine. Test cuts on scrap are recommended for rips.
I had the saw and a vacuum plugged into a power bar on the floor, and left the vac on. I could use my foot to turn on the power bar switch with my foot - and therefore not have to find the vac switch each time. Also it meant not forgetting the vac, because the saw would not be powered without the power bar (and hence the vac) being turned on. The vac port on the saw is a relatively small diameter, but I have a mini vac that fit just right; the port is located in line with the blade in the upper blade shroud. Dust collection was quite good for cross cuts, but less so for rips; I'm unsure why that is quite frankly - maybe because for a rip cut I was positioned in front of the saw rather than behind it and I noticed more dust. It does not catch the dust released below the surface of the saw - and why would it? The floor below and around the saw needed a vacuum after moving the setup, but the rest of the horizontal surfaces in the room were just fine.
I found the dust spewing of the jig saw to be much worse - the cut on the up swing brought dust up - and into my face. I had no dust collection on the jig saw, but could envision a clear shield around the front of the saw with a vac port behind the saw - this idea is clearly from a Festool video I saw.
Overall the flooring saw tool performed well - and I am glad to be done! I was able to borrow the saw, but looking back I believe that for the 500-600 SF I installed in 4 rooms, this saw would have rather quickly paid for itself had I paid the $120 or so retail price for it. For one room - maybe not if you have a good jig saw and can rip with it. For larger installs, I would prefer to use this for the many crosscuts and use the jig saw for cuts where it is the only tool that will work.
This flooring is not built for every day pro usage - but I expect that it will survive considerable use before problems arise.
One significant plus to this flooring saw is safety - this is a tool I would have almost anyone use. The saw motor/blade is on rails and the work is held in place. The is very little blade exposure, and I believe you would almost have to try to get your fingers 'in there.' The potential for accidents is
very minimal compared to cross cuts on a small TS, or even a relatively safe hand held jig saw. Rip cuts similarly are very safe, due to the very limited blade exposure. They even provide a push stick (that of course I did not use).
Henry