Do these thoughts seem viable?
I am using an old Miller Falls 814 jack, so no risk if I screw it up. I am having difficulty keeping it flat on the side. My problem of course. Skill does matter.
I have some 1/2 inch aluminum plate and could screw it to the side for a larger base platform and could shim the half-thou or so as it is not perfectly @ 90. I am also looking at the top rail idea but I think the bigger base is more practical.
I tried a hot-dog handle and was not very happy with it. Thinking about using an old cheap saw handle. Make a steel plate that bolts in place of the tote. maybe some additional stiffening. Position seems to be about right. Force more down than to the side. Pushing more from the rear than a hot-dog.
Third is with a square side base, I could add a guide rail out of some HDPE or Delrin to keep the sole up against the work. Kind of like the old Stanley base.
Is the lack of skew more of a limiting factor? One could maybe get a few degrees with a bit of file work on the frog and base so it does not enter the wood dead on. Even 5 degrees may help.
Is a strip of 600 or so grit on the fence an advantage as the work would not slip, but does it hurt in sliding it over that last thou? 1200?
Or I could win the lottery and buy a L-N 51 but that is not likely to happen.
A big , say 5 x 16 inch plate would slide on melamine OK, but I could even get a slab of Delrin for the base. I figure the extra mass of the plate would be a good thing.
Thoughts? Other ideas? Yes, I know a plain old smoother on a simple board has served for hundreds of years. That is not the point.
PS, I have a Lyon trimmer, but it requires you to get at least a 32nd bite to work due to the play in the ways where a shooting board can take a breath off. The skew does seem to help though.
I am using an old Miller Falls 814 jack, so no risk if I screw it up. I am having difficulty keeping it flat on the side. My problem of course. Skill does matter.
I have some 1/2 inch aluminum plate and could screw it to the side for a larger base platform and could shim the half-thou or so as it is not perfectly @ 90. I am also looking at the top rail idea but I think the bigger base is more practical.
I tried a hot-dog handle and was not very happy with it. Thinking about using an old cheap saw handle. Make a steel plate that bolts in place of the tote. maybe some additional stiffening. Position seems to be about right. Force more down than to the side. Pushing more from the rear than a hot-dog.
Third is with a square side base, I could add a guide rail out of some HDPE or Delrin to keep the sole up against the work. Kind of like the old Stanley base.
Is the lack of skew more of a limiting factor? One could maybe get a few degrees with a bit of file work on the frog and base so it does not enter the wood dead on. Even 5 degrees may help.
Is a strip of 600 or so grit on the fence an advantage as the work would not slip, but does it hurt in sliding it over that last thou? 1200?
Or I could win the lottery and buy a L-N 51 but that is not likely to happen.
A big , say 5 x 16 inch plate would slide on melamine OK, but I could even get a slab of Delrin for the base. I figure the extra mass of the plate would be a good thing.
Thoughts? Other ideas? Yes, I know a plain old smoother on a simple board has served for hundreds of years. That is not the point.
PS, I have a Lyon trimmer, but it requires you to get at least a 32nd bite to work due to the play in the ways where a shooting board can take a breath off. The skew does seem to help though.