I'm Looking for the Collective Wisdom of the Group!

[tvrgeek]

Actually, I think either Taylor or Woodturners has a powered shield on sale. I should get one.

Normally, vinyl backing with asbestos was gray-ish white, but one never knows. Your risk.
A Diablo destruction blade should do at least a room if you were cutting 12 or so strips. They are amazingly tough.

I just did my master bath floor and the fun of getting thin-set bonded 1/4 Hardy board off. Gad was that tough! At least I am ready for Laticrete liquid membrane now.

Favorite destruction tool: Cat's pawl.

 

[tri4sale]

Daniel, how many blades per room do you recommend? The nails I see look like roofing nails to me.

One per room should be fine, we used about 1 blade for each room sometimes 2 bedrooms, just depends on how many nails you actually hit If hitting a lot, move over 6 inches. most people will nail down in a straight line. Really once the blade stopped cutting easily we swapped them out. I think it was $10 to $15 a blade, so in the big picture of a rehab costs the blades cost doesn't really matter.

 

[tri4sale]

Oh, and go to Dick's Sporting goods and get some volleyball knee braces, so much better then knee protectors you usually find in home improvement stores.

 

[HITCH-]

Since your wife grew up in the home does she know when this floor was installed? Might be an indication of the probability of asbestos

 

[Rick Mainhart]

Wow Rick, sounds like you've done this before! I didn't expect this type of detailed response but I knew this was a wonderful group. My avatar says I'm a new user, but I've been a member for about 15 years, primarily as an observer rather than commenter. On the x-y pattern, is that like a chess board? How many carbide blades would you expect I'd grow through for 1700 square feet?

Hi Kent,

Yes, we've been through this. On the X-Y pattern just cut north-south and east-west (like a tic-tac-toe board), we found 12" squares sufficient to remove, bag, and haul off easier than large and/or oddly shaped pieces. Our job was a 16' x 24' room, and we shared the tearout and bagging chores with little issue.

Others have recommended using the Diablo demo blades ... I'd get two to start with ... you can always get more if the situation requires. I'm STILL using the same blade in my circular saw (DeWalt aftermarket replacement blade) that I used for that job ... admittedly I don't use that saw much, but the few nails we hit didn't damage the teeth. We did have the advantage of seeing where the nails were and avoided them (for the most part).

I'd have a Sawzall handy with a long bi-metal blade in just in case you run into an area where someone emptied their nail gun with 16 penny nails in one spot ... slide the blade between the plywood and the particle board and rip away. The blade will track nicely between the sheets, and unless you twist or angle the blade severely, will do little more than slightly scratch the plywood subfloor.

I do NOT recommend using any alcohol-based paint ... leave that to the pros. Oil-based Kilz (or your favorite heavy-duty stain blocking primer) is still my recommendation.

Good luck,

Rick

 

[FredP]

Thanks Fred! Do you have a recommendation on the brand of saw and blades?

Cheap! Think throw away cheap. The blades will be toast and the saw won't be far behind....

 

[Oka]

Demo out the particle board clean the plywood subfloor, I would spray 2/3 mineral spirits -1/3 BLO mix in a Hudson sprayer, then oil base kilz the entire floor. Then new subfloor. The blo mix treats the wood and helps preserve the wood before applying kilz. Good luck

 

[junquecol]

Demo or the partical board clean the plywood subfloor, I would spray 2/3 mineral spirits -1/3 BLO mix it if a Hudson sprayer, then oil base kilz the entire floor. Then new subfloor. The blo mix treats the wood and helps preserve the wood before applying kilz. Good luck

Instead of pry bar, get a "Razorback" square point shovel, or a "roof bully."

 

[Craptastic]

I think Rick nailed it but I would use 2 coats of Kilz or a skim coat of an epoxy based paint before recovering.

Cat piss can really come back years later with a minor moisture issue.

 

[Kent Adams]

Instead of pry bar, get a "Razorback" square point shovel, or a "roof bully."

What do you think about this? It's 10 gauge, pretty long for leverage. I just wonder if it would withstand the leverage without breaking?

 

[Dreuxgrad]

How about making some long low angle wedges out of hard wood?

 

[Kent Adams]

How about making some long low angle wedges out of hard wood?

Ed, that's very interesting method as well!

 

[walnutjerry]

I have a home I'm trying to remodel. This home has a subfloor of 3/4 inch plywood. On top is 1/2 particle board and then 1970's vinyl on top of that. Prior owner had cats and they sprayed the house so you can imagine the smell. I've determined that the aforementioned spraying didn't penetrate beyond the particle board (vinyl does not go wall to wall). I need to remove the vinyl and its particle board underlayment. The particle board is not glued down, thank god. It's nailed down. However, the vinyl is glued onto the particle board. I need to remove both the vinyl and the particle board so only the plywood is left.

It is not possible to simply peel back the vinyl to expose the particle board. I'm trying to figure out the best method to tackle this job. I have 1700 sq feet to remove. Particle board underlayment is difficult to cut through when its underlayment. I've done a lot of research but have no first hand knowledge on how to accomplish this job. Here are my thoughts.

1. Rent a 400lb floor scraper to remove the vinyl and then use a non-arbor hole saw around each and every nail so I can remove the nails and pull up the particle board.
2. Use my Festool TS-55 tracksaw, cut through both the vinyl and particle board using a 52 tooth laminate/hpl saw blade, cut into strips and then use a crowbar to pull up the individual strips of particle board and vinyl.

It would be wonderful if the 400lb floor scraper could do both (pull up vinyl and particle board), but I fear it won't be capable of that. I can't find any good solution to this problem so I am praying for the collective wisdom of this group to tell me something different I can try or to tell me what is wrong with the two options I have identified.

I look forward to your suggestions and please don't hesitate to tell me I'm wrong or that there is a better way! Thank you!

​

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been there done that. #2 was the method I used but with a circular saw fitted with carbide blade. cut in 2 ft. squares and pried up with crow bar.

 

[Kent Adams]

Here's an update for everyone. I used the methods described here with a $100 plunge saw. Cut in 2 foot squares and remove with a crow bar. I bought some cheap diablo blades and they work just fine. The method works well. Very slow going, but effective. Thank you to everyone whom offered their advice and guidance!

 

[Rick Mainhart]

Glad it worked out Kent ... NOW is the time to carefully check the subfloor for squeaks and run in some construction screws into the joists (yea, don't ask me how I should have done things!).
Regards,
Rick

 

[Gotcha6]

I am a remodeling GC, so I deal with stuff like this on a daily basis in my day job. I would say Fred has good advice. I would try it with a large pry bar/flat bar and some 2x4's. You might be able to get the particle board up in full sheets. The vinyl will often times break or be able to be cut with a razor blade. Do need to be aware of potential for asbestos in the flooring or glue, depending on the exact age though.

The asbestos warning is pretty much a given in any vinyl sold or installed before 1978. You should have it tested if you're planning on DIY removal. Most reputable construction testing companies will do this for a nominal fee if you take them a sample.

 

[spitzerone]

I recently had the same problem. I ended up just using a 2 lb hammer, a long pry bar, and a block of wood to remove the crap. I considered painting over the pee stains left by animals peeing on the carpets and absorbing into the particle board but that wasn't enough. I went back with OSB. Its stronger and more durable and not much more in cost.