IBOX purchasers
- Thread starter jhreed
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I was going to say Harbor freight also but I will also say.... that I only got my Ibox a few days ago but I have just been using a Irwin quick grip clamp with it..... maybe Alan will chime in and say that I am going it wrong.... Honestly if you piece is big enough I am really not sure you need to clamp it at all and I assume they are showing the clamping for liability reasons.... so because of liability reason yes you should always use a clamp I am not telling you not too
I think the most important safety thing for the IBOX would be a blade guard for the back side of the jig also so I plan on building a blade guard for the rear as well and I also plan on including dust collection in the rear blade guard
See Amazon for Wooden Clamps- all sizes all prices- nice little 4" ones for $5.87
WOOD CLAMP 4":TZ03-07904
Shhhhh, don't tell anyone, but I don't use a clamp either. Its too slow and I'm too impatient.
The I-BOX comes with an MDF rear blade guard, but if you think it is necessary, it would be easy to add an extension like the front Lexan dust shield to the back. It wouldn't need to be Lexan; hardboard would do since there is no need to see what is going on in the back. I think a better option is to use a miter slot stop like the ones shown below (a featherboard locked in the slot will work also). I think INCRA sells something similar but couldn't find it. Put the jig over the blade just past the the point where the fingers are cut to full depth, then position the stop in the miter slot just in front of the jig's miter bar and lock it in place. Not only will that prevent jig from moving too far forward and keep the blade from exiting the rear, providing additional protection, when it stops the jig it is letting you know the cut is complete- did I say I was impatient?
I can't say if or when these will ever become IBOX accessories, but I designed Lexan guards for the front and rear of the IBOX that would replace the MDF guards. Two benefits- better pin plate visibility in front and dust collection in back!
This prototype should be a bit longer like the SketchUp drawing.
A miter slot stop should be used to prevent the blade from damaging this prototype rear guard. Stock INCRA dust fittings were used.
The rear guard in this drawing allows more jig travel and won't be damaged if you overrun the blade with it.
Alan you are really the man..... a great one for sure.... I also had contemplated using a miter bar stop so I am glad you brought it up.... I had planned to message you about these to things but it worked out being brought up in this thread...
The rear guard with the dust port is totally what I was considering and will make sooner rather then later so I am glad you approve of both ideas of the stop and the rear dust/guard...
and also answered the clamping situation but I am totally forgetting I ever heard that
And this simple idea too
So have you tested this Alan.... does is catch most of the dust.... I figured it would need to be more closed off in the rear to direct the air coming in from the front of the jig and not from the rear....
As far as picking up dust it worked very well. The front and rear openings are the same size. The air and dust want to move where there is least resistance and that is up into the large dust fitting (where there is vac suction), not out the tiny slot in the back. It would be no problem to glue a small piece of wood or MDF over the rear opening if you want.
The biggest issue is the fitting and hose kinda get in the way of hands holding the stock. The hose MUST be routed to the left or right where it can slide along the edge of the table. If the hose exits towards the back the hose coils will catch on the edge of the table in front of the user and make it hard to move the jig forward.
My best design was the wedge shaped Lexan rear guard shown in my earlier post. The fitting mounted at an angle so there was more room for my hands. It had issues, too, however- it requires a miter slot stop to prevent the user from advancing the jig too far into the blade and damaging the guard, and from manufacturing and price standpoints Lexan is expensive, heat bending takes time and adds to that expense, and each additional bend adds more. It is cheaper to manufacture if you can use one part in two places or make them both in the same operation. The MDF guards are mirror images of each other and both cut from a single block at the same time, then separated later. With the exception of the hole for the vac port, my elongated Lexan design (see drawing above) would be the same front and back.
Disclaimer: Please remember I am not an INCRA employee and these ideas and suggestions are not INCRA approved.
Re: IBOX purchasers- UPDATE
I just talked with INCRA- in a few weeks they will be selling American made handscrew furniture clamps in 6" (used by Perry McDaniel in the I-BOX demos), 8", and 10" sizes.
I just talked with INCRA- in a few weeks they will be selling American made handscrew furniture clamps in 6" (used by Perry McDaniel in the I-BOX demos), 8", and 10" sizes.
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