How to attach handles (scales) to knife tang?

[merrill77]

I was very fortunate to win a Hock 7" knife kit at the picnic. Since I also have several medium quality kitchen knives (JA Henckels) that would benefit from new handles, this seems like the kick I need to get started.

Two things in the instructions surprised me:
#1 the handles are to be glued on!
#2 the pins appear to be ornamental

I guess I always thought the pins were pounded over, forming a slight head that holds the handle (scales) tight to the tang, before grinding flat. I assumed brass was traditionally used for this reason (soft).

The pins included with this kit are steel (possibly the same O1 tool steel as the knife?) - thus too hard for this process. Additionally, they fit the tang holes so loosely, I cant see how they provide any lateral strength.

I already lost one of the little pins so I was going to buy some brass rod to use instead. Then I started wondering if I could skip the pins entirely? Seems redundant after the epoxy.

Any advice appreciated for this first timer...
Chris

Also - I'm planning to use a padauk scrap for the handle...any reason not to? I may do each knife with a different wood - I have scraps of tigerwood, purpleheart, wenge & ipe at hand.

 

[Mike Davis]

If epoxy is hit parallel to the blade it will shear off. The pins help prevent that.

I use stainless steel sometimes as well as brass sometimes, either can be peaned to add some holding strength greater than the friction of the hole.

Glue the scales, pean the pins, then shape and fit the scales to the handle.

 

[Phil S]

I have a ceramic knife with epoxied handles and no pins nor holes to install pins. I have had to reepoxy the handles twice

 

[Barron]

You can use pins, rivets, or screw fasteners. If you go to knife making supplies on the web you can find videos on the process for attaching scales. It is a lot of fun, and a quick way to make a gift. Also, lots of options for scale material. I have used Texas Knifemaker Supplies, but there are others.

 

[merrill77]

Thanks. Looks like I need to find the missing 3rd pin or some 1/4" brass rod. And an anvil...always wanted one of those

 

[mayszs]

I like the look of loveless bolts, creates a cool bullseye affect if you use contrasting metals. You can buy them or make your own for less than $1. I've done a couple different knives using 8-32 SS screws and a pair of 8-32 bronze nuts turned round using a belt sander.

 

[Woodmolds]

These brass rivets can also be used.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40386&cat=3,41306,41327

I own some of the rivets. Also some of these.
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=52_36_622

But have always just used the straight pins.

Tony

 

[Mark Gottesman]

The epoxy helps keep mung and dreck from accumulating under the handle. Hobby shop or Welding supply will have various size metal rod and tube. I have also used heavy copper wire. Like the texture from peening the rivets plus how it ages. Paduk will work just fine. Knifemaking is another slippery slope. All of a sudden small bits of wood are handle stock and all those old jointer and saw blades are now blade stock. Then you need an anvil and away you go. DAMHIK.

 

[mayszs]

I feel better knowing I'm not the only one that slipped down the slope.

 

[merrill77]

The epoxy helps keep mung and dreck from accumulating under the handle. Hobby shop or Welding supply will have various size metal rod and tube. I have also used heavy copper wire. Like the texture from peening the rivets plus how it ages. Paduk will work just fine. Knifemaking is another slippery slope. All of a sudden small bits of wood are handle stock and all those old jointer and saw blades are now blade stock. Then you need an anvil and away you go. DAMHIK.

Thanks - I hadn't considered the sealant benefits.

Yeah, don't get me started. I'm dying to build a small forge

 

[merrill77]

Any advice what kind of epoxy to use? I recall a mention that harder epoxy is recommended. Other than marine epoxy, I could only find quick set epoxy at the hardware store.

 

[Mike Davis]

Don't use quick set, get the two hour kind. It gives you a little more time to work and is much stronger.

i always leave it clamped overnight.

 

[Mark Gottesman]

Any advice what kind of epoxy to use? I recall a mention that harder epoxy is recommended. Other than marine epoxy, I could only find quick set epoxy at the hardware store.

I would look for the slower setting two part types. Stay away from the 5 minutes. Try for at least 20 minute open time. 60 minute is also good and has good adhesion.

Check the auto stores for something like this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...epoxy-.84-oz-84107/7160080-P?searchTerm=epoxy


If the Wenge you have is coarse flat saw grain, try using a wirebrush on it with a heavy hand. Should dig out some of the softer wood and leave a nice grip texture for when your hands a full of chicken grease.

Forges are real easy to build. Bunch of firebrick, a squirrel cage blower and a propane tank and hose. And your off!

 

[mayszs]

Any advice what kind of epoxy to use? I recall a mention that harder epoxy is recommended. Other than marine epoxy, I could only find quick set epoxy at the hardware store.

It all depends on how solid/secure a bond you want. I've used 3M 2216 General Purpose epoxy in a number of different situations and have never experienced a bonding failure.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...sQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNFtihxVo-X9RygBlJXMHExJ6P08Xg

 

[CrealBilly]

Those guys on Alaska the last frontier just use epoxy but they also forge their own blades and use antler as scales.

When I made my knife and sheath I used brass pins and slow set high strength epoxy but I banded aluminum in my scales. I've hacked up quite a few deer and critters with mine, so far so good.

Here is a pic of mine. I put lots of pins in mine. The center pin on the right hand side you see where the punch slipped of the pin and bummed up the wood. I could have fixed it with but I think its character. Just shows I'm not perfect and never will be. I keep mine scary sharp.

Here is the thread for the knife
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?p=460867

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