Help With Steel Wool/Vinegar "Stain"

[The A Train]

So I made some end tables out of what I assume is white pine 2x4's, 2x6's, 2x2's and 1x12's. It came out pretty decent for my first big boy wood project. My wife loved the brownish-grey color you get from the steel wool and vinegar (iron acetate I believe) followed by a light white wash.

This brings me to where I am now. From my research, white pine lacks tannin and it can be applied through a coat of black tea. So I started with a good coating of that and let it dry into the wood. I followed that with my homemade "stain." It went on a nice brown with a hint of grey which was perfect. Now about an hour after I applied that, it has dried to a cloudy poopish color. You heard me cloudy poopish color.

The color is not favorible but I believe can be salvagable. I have yet to apply the whitewash so that will hide some of it. And Im planning on using several coats of Waterlox sealer/finisher which should add a slight amber color.

My main concern is the woodgrain. The stain is cloudy and hidden some of the grain. Is it possible to lightly sand or buff with a 0000 steel wool to bring some of it back out? Should I just leave it and let the Waterlox bring it out?

 

[Henry W]

First rule of wood finishing (Michael Dresdner): Finish Firewood First.
What this means is to test your entire wood finishing protocol on a piece of scrap first. Scrap that is the same species, hopefully a cutoff of your project. This means sanding, grain raising, staining, ..... every step from bare un-sanded wood through the entirely finished surface. Only then will you know what this will look like.

I am assuming that you will 'top coat' this with a clear varnish of some sort (shellac, polyurethane, lacquer etc). That can make a dramatic difference in the way the color shows. You have to see it that way before making any judgements. One way to get a glimpse of what the color will be is to use a wet (water, methanol, or mioneral spirits) rag and give it a quick wipe. That wet color is a decent approximation of the color that it will be when 'top coated' with a clear coat.

You mentioned whitewash - I am not really familiar with that effect, but do wonder why you are concerned about the color before white wash. Is it going to be a 'distressed finish'? Sand through the whitewash on the wear edges to see the color beneath?

Anyways let us know more about your specific plans for the whole finishing prototocol, and maybe others can comment further.

- OK re-read your post. - Wipe down the surface with a 'damp' rag (see above) to mimic the look it will have with the Waterlox applied.
Partial sanding is an option, but not easy to achieve any sort of consistent color - at least not easy for me.


Hope this helps

Henry

 

[Jeff]

Vinegar/steel wool is not a "stain" so how does it work so well on oak wood but pine is is an absolute bust and it looks "poopey".

Tannic acid from oak or tannic acid from tea.

 

[danmart77]

What color are you looking to get? As long as it is not lighter than what you have down, you can move in that direction with water base aniline dye.

Can't suggest anything without some direction on color.

 

[The A Train]

Thanks for the responses. Heres a picture of what our goal was. I know it wont be a perfect match, but as long as its similar wifey will be happy.

 

[Jeff]

Thanks for the responses. Heres a picture of what our goal was. I know it wont be a perfect match, but as long as its similar wifey will be happy.

Ok, now we all have a common basis to work from. Where did your wife get the picture that you posted (with a website)? Ana Young or some other DIY site that describes their process?

If not, we can suggest a few ways to get that lighter look going from your original pictures after the tea and vinegar/steel wool.

1. Do your A-Z test protocols on scrap cutoffs before you try it on your "poopey" tables.

2. Sand as necessary to remove color from the high spots and leave the darker color deeper in the wood. Maybe 100-120 grit on pine and you'll have to be the judge on that. It's way to early for 000/0000 steel wool.

3. What do you and your wife think about the appearance after that? Rethink it, regroup and revise the plan, etc? I don't know about the "whitewash" plan. No Waterlox yet!

 

[Kent Adams]

Thanks for the responses. Heres a picture of what our goal was. I know it wont be a perfect match, but as long as its similar wifey will be happy.

To me this looks like the untreated white pine that has sat outside for a few months in my carport, subject to moisture and lack of good airflow. Is that the look you're going for?

 

[CrealBilly]

Thanks for the responses. Heres a picture of what our goal was. I know it wont be a perfect match, but as long as its similar wifey will be happy.

Pick a sunny spot to stack your pine. Hose down each layer of the stack with water, then dead stack each row (no stickers), cover the entire stack with clear plastic, in a few weeks your beautiful pine will look just like that.

Make sure you wear a good mask when working with your new moldy pine - some people have a real reaction to mold.

 

[The A Train]

Thanks for all the advice. I believe they came out pretty decent. Still curing in the carport, but theyll be moved in tomorrow. The pictures give them a higher gloss than they really are. Overall I am very pleased.

 

[Kent Adams]

I came across this video today and this may be the look your wife found. Its made out of Beetle Killed Pine. I've attached the video and it starts right where the maker shows the table top.

https://youtu.be/G1_IDEvV6Z0?t=8m46s