One limitation to the radius of a crank or wheel is the table and I didn't want to have to swing it out of the way. I usually keep a laminate covered table on the cast iron one which makes it even wider. That is why I made the center section of the crank so long. Then I was free to make the crank quite wide.
Rick, that link actually shows what I was thinking about last night. I was wondering if old bicycle sprockets could be modified to fit, should be.
I replaced the dinky handle on mine with a fatter larger wood handle and while it requires the same effort to crank, I find it easier because of a better grip.
-- Rick M
I have a 16" Delta as well. While moving the table up and down is a chore using the handcrank, it is MUCH MUCH easier if you support the outboard end as you crank it up and down. Its all that overhung weight causing it to bind on the shaft. Simply exerting a few pounds force underneath the front of the table and its really no issue at all.
I didn't say it would be free. Here is one guy who did it with a DC motor: http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/automate.htm
I'm sure if someone spent time researching it they could find a number of clever solutions.
I guess I had a sticky column or something Chris. After loosening the column clamp at least two full turns I would lift on front of the table with my left hand and crank with my right. Even then, the plastic crank arm would bend and deform. It was like I could turn it a half circle at time but with more effort than is reasonable. I'm going to start searching for a reversible motor now, this should be fun.
That's actually not complicated. But then I've converted two lathes to variable speed with a DC motor so I have some familiarity with them.
Here is the wood handle on my press. I think it's worth the upgrade. It just slips over the original strait steel handle, friction holds it on but it's loose enough to turn as you crank but if you pull away from the column it will come off.
A 1/4 - 1/3 hp DC gear motor and controller would work- that is what I did to convert the conveyor on my Griz 1066Z dual drum sander to variable speed.
My goal for the drill press table, however, is to do it as simply and inexpensively as possible so a manufacturer will really want to add it to their drill press.
In the early 70's I purchased the Craftsman Drill Press. I am now to a point where I can no longer release the handle and manually lift the table. When I am done installing my dust collection system in a couple of weeks I plan on installing a Linear Actuator to do the lifting for me. I saw this years ago in an article somewhere. I have the actuator, a Duff- Norton 14" or 16" stroke I do not recall. I paid $85 for it new in the box off of ebay. These are usually 12V but you can find them rated 110. Basically a bracket on the base and one on the table. Then all you need to control it is a center off switch with two positions up and down. When I get it going I will post the details.
First off, welcome to the forum Bob. That going to be an interesting project. If I had my old Craftsman DP with no lifting mechanism I would definitely give that a try. It would sure beat using the bottle jack which I used before. For sure, let us know how it works out.
My old Craftsman dp had no lift mechanism. I filled a long piece of 1 1/2" tubing with lead, and suspended it in the tube, with a pulley at the top, the line runs down to the table. Works good.
While on a dp thread, here is a pic of a depth stop I made for the same dp. Just an oversize nut (Doesn't have to be a nut. Threads do nothing) with a hole tapped in the side for a bolt with a wingnut head. I hated having to turn the 2 knurled knobs to change height. This stop couldn't be easier to use. Loosen wing nut. Set bit at max depth, and tighten wing nut.
No modifications to machine were done. The pulley bracket just sits there. It was a prototype I made, and it worked so good, I never refined it.