Hand planing: How to avoid rounding the ends of a short board with a No. 7 plane

[jocrawford]

I'm new to using hand planes and I'm having some trouble getting the edges flat on a couple of 2x4s. I am trying to plane down the edge of the 2x4s to remove the rounded edges and end up with a board that is 3 1/8 inches wide. The boards I'm working with are 20 1/2 inches long and will be the feet of a saw bench I'm building.

So far I either end up with a board that is rounded on the ends or one end is wider than the other, one end will be 3 inches and the other will be 3 1/8 inches. I feel like I know what I'm doing wrong but I am having trouble correcting the issue.

I was hoping someone had some tips on how to keep from rounding the ends and keeping the planed surface level and even across the length of the board.

 

[Mike Davis]

Try clamping the boards together and planing both at the same time. The wider reference area will give a better result.

 

[KenOfCary]

Is the wider end where you start or finish the stroke with the plane. Depending on which end it is, you need to modify your technique slightly. If the far end is fat try to concentrate on the follow through, you may be pulling up too quickly. If the near end is fat then concentrate on making a cleaner start to the stroke. What I'm saying is that it is a matter of practice to get the right smooth start to finish - you should be moving your body and not your arms through the stroke.

Not sure about the rounded at the ends problem - maybe just follow through beyond the end of the board.

And what Mike said is a good tip also, as usual.

 

[Mike Davis]

Another thing

are you taking off the full 1/4 inch of thickness with length strokes from end to end with the number 7?

I would get most of it with transverse strokes with a number 5 or 6 using a cambered iron working at 45 degrees across then back the opposite way.

When I got close then I would switch to the jointer and finish from end to end.

this is much faster and gives you a reference such as when the cross grain marks are gone the board should be flat.

 

[Rwe2156]

(Separate issue, but you've got plenty of bearing surface with 2X material but you still need also be careful not to get out of square.)

First, what plane are you using? If a #4 this might explain your difficulty. It is possible but preferred would be a longer plane. I would probably use a #6.

Second, planing technique. More toe pressure at the beginning and more heel pressure at the end will keep/create a flat surface and minimize the sloping. Another technique is to take a few passes through the middle 2/3's of the board and follow up with full passes..

Once you get one edge flat, then strike a marking gauge for the 3 1/8 width desired and plane to the mark.

 

[jocrawford]

Another thing

are you taking off the full 1/4 inch of thickness with length strokes from end to end with the number 7?

I would get most of it with transverse strokes with a number 5 or 6 using a cambered iron working at 45 degrees across then back the opposite way.

When I got close then I would switch to the jointer and finish from end to end.

this is much faster and gives you a reference such as when the cross grain marks are gone the board should be flat.

Hey Mike,

Yes, I am trying to get it flat with the No 7 taking full strokes. I've got a No 5 and a No 4 as well, so I'll try your method and see how well it works.

 

[jocrawford]

Is the wider end where you start or finish the stroke with the plane. Depending on which end it is, you need to modify your technique slightly. If the far end is fat try to concentrate on the follow through, you may be pulling up too quickly. If the near end is fat then concentrate on making a cleaner start to the stroke. What I'm saying is that it is a matter of practice to get the right smooth start to finish - you should be moving your body and not your arms through the stroke.

Not sure about the rounded at the ends problem - maybe just follow through beyond the end of the board.

And what Mike said is a good tip also, as usual.

Hey Ken,

It is the near end that ends up being fat. I think this is due to the fact that I am planing on an old desk, I don't have a dedicated workbench yet, and the desk is a little shorter than I'd like it to be.

so Far I'm having a hard time getting the toe of the plane flat on the start of the cut. but like you mention I think I mostly need to work on my technique.

Thanks for the tip.

-John

 

[Deeptree]

I would find a friend close by with a jointer and a planer

 

[jocrawford]

I would find a friend close by with a jointer and a planer

You know I've been hearing that a lot lately. In fact it's the same thing my dad told me. He has been doing carpentry/woodworking all his life building houses before I came along and then took a job in the Carpentry Shop at the University in our home town for the benefits and steady work. Since then he has built cabinets with our cousin on the side and has access to some nice tools in both the shop at work and at our cousin's. He told me to wait and when he has some time we could run the boards thru the jointer and planner at his work.

I know using a jointer and planner would be easier and faster but that sort of side steps my intentions in woodworking. As I keep telling him, I'm not in a race or have any deadline to meet and I want to use hand tools to do it all even if it means a more time and blisters. Not that I'm one to turn my nose up at power tools and when budget allows I will be adding a few to my "Tools I need" list, but for now I want to learn to walk before I run so to speak

 

[Deeptree]

You know I've been hearing that a lot lately. In fact it's the same thing my dad told me. He has been doing carpentry/woodworking all his life building houses before I came along and then took a job in the Carpentry Shop at the University in our home town for the benefits and steady work. Since then he has built cabinets with our cousin on the side and has access to some nice tools in both the shop at work and at our cousin's. He told me to wait and when he has some time we could run the boards thru the jointer and planner at his work.

I know using a jointer and planner would be easier and faster but that sort of side steps my intentions in woodworking. As I keep telling him, I'm not in a race or have any deadline to meet and I want to use hand tools to do it all even if it means a more time and blisters. Not that I'm one to turn my nose up at power tools and when budget allows I will be adding a few to my "Tools I need" list, but for now I want to learn to walk before I run so to speak

John...sorry...I understand what you meant, I was just trying to add a little humor. There is nothing quite like hearing that beautiful sounding "Sccchhnnniiiiiick" when hand planing.

 

[Mike Davis]

A better description than I can make...

 

[Mike Davis]

Similar work from my #6 Stanley.



By the way, I bought that plane for $30, cambered and sharpened the blade and put it to work.
So much for "there are no planes available on the market" and "you have to spend hours getting old planes ready to work".

Or "you have to spend hundred$ to get a plane that works".



This 16 inch wide red oak board had a 1/4 inch cup, completely planed by hand with old Stanley planes.