Finishing options for mahogany entry door?

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
I have begun to experiment with Waterlox Marine for my mahogany entry door finish but am quickly seeing that it isn’t very forgiving with regard to brush marks and overlap. It is also quite glossy.

I have finished many pieces of furniture, vanity tops, bar tops with Waterlox original and have knocked down the gloss at the end by wet sanding but the panel and mounding profiles on this door will prevent me from doing that well. For these pieces I have always thinned the material and wiped it on to get a more even application.

I have never used the semigloss version of Waterlox but perhaps that would be a solution here but only if it can be cut with mineral spirits and wiped on thin.

Questions:
Can I cut the semigloss Waterlox marine or will the dulling agent not behave properly?

What other users friendly alternatives are there to the Waterlox products for this application?

Thx!
 

robliles

Rob
Corporate Member
David, I built a mahogany entry door for my home about eight years ago. I finished it with General Finishes Exterior 450 satin finish, six coats, sprayed. I have had no problems with this finish and it is still holding ujp fine after this many years of exposure. It is south facing and only has a 2' overhand to protect it so it has had a lot of sun exposure. It does have a full storm door over it but, again, it has held up fine.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Waterlox recommends against thinning, so I would personally hesitate to thin their product.

I’ve used epifanes marine varnish for a eucalyptus bench that sat exposed to the elements with sun exposure for most of the day and it held up for around 3 years before needing to be redone.
 

Robert LaPlaca

Robert
Senior User
David, I would suggest you try PPG Proluxe Window and door finish (aka Sikkens Cetol). I have this product on one door in my home, one coat of the tinted stain and two coats of the stain top coat. The product has held up very well, the beauty of Proluxe is eventually the top coat wears away, leaving less of a hassle to recoat the product.

My Mahogany front door was finished by me with Epifanes Marine varnish, the door faces south West and has some shade from a small porch. Epifanes is HIGH GLOSS, when first applied it looks so amazing, but it is tons of work and if I had to do the doors finish all over again, I would use Proluxe. Typically with the Epifanes, when the HIGH GLOSS starts to recede, it’s time for recoating..
 
Last edited:

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
Waterlox recommends against thinning, so I would personally hesitate to thin their product.

I’ve used epifanes marine varnish for a eucalyptus bench that sat exposed to the elements with sun exposure for most of the day and it held up for around 3 years before needing to be redone.
I would need to check back with them but I believe that they make that statement from a VOC standpoint and not a physical property standpoint.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
With moulding profiles and panels, I think spraying is the best option.

I finished some deck chairs with Total Boat Gleam and was very happy with it. 2 coats gloss and 2 coats satin. I actually ended brushing it b/c I was having trouble with orange peeling. If you use the brushing thinner it really does well.

You can't tell in the pics, but the finish is very smooth. I did sand between coats.

IMG_1937REDUCED.jpg
 

bphaynes

Parker
Corporate Member
I used Total Boat Gleam Spar Varnish on the Sapele front door I finished and installed last year at my house and I have really liked it so far.
 

mpeele

michael
User
I would stick with the WaterLox because its the only finish I know of that can be can be reapplied without removing the old other that lacquer and shellac . I would not use the semigloss because of the flatteners in it. I remove the gloss with oiled 0000 steel wool. My first coat is always 50/50 cut with turpentine. I call that Danish Oil.
 

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
I would stick with the WaterLox because its the only finish I know of that can be can be reapplied without removing the old other that lacquer and shellac . I would not use the semigloss because of the flatteners in it. I remove the gloss with oiled 0000 steel wool. My first coat is always 50/50 cut with turpentine. I call that Danish Oil.
What kind of oil do you use?
 

hymie123

Jim
Corporate Member
I restored our front doors which were hand carved from Mexico, I chose waterlox marine 11 years ago. The doors see direct afternoon sun. I clean and recoat every year or 2. The waterlox holds up great and can be reapplied as needed. I do not cut the waterlox.
 

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