Fairly terrifying - Stepping back to revaluate what happened

[John Jimenez]

Heath, glad you still have all your fingers. Thanks for sharing with the group so that we can all take your PSA with us out into our own shops.

 

[chris_goris]

Heath, glad you werent hurt from this. I have the same saw. Im guessing the piece caught on the blade retract? Were you simply chopping or sliding?. Either way, If I cut something small like this with mine, I'll cut and drop the trigger (stopping the blade) after the cut and remove the cutoff. The retract motion causes the issues generally, unless your cutoff is somehow trapped against the blade.

 

[Gofor]

The only way I can envision a small piece like that breaking off the entire tooth is for it to have been drawn up into the upper shroud. May want to have a look for damage there, also. I have had a hard knot come loose and strip off a couple carbide teeth (not the base blade), but that was from a lesser quality blade with very aggressive tooth profile.

Point taken on the warning. Thanks.

 

[CaptnA]

First off I am glad you weren't injured. Second thank you for bring this to every one's eyes and attention. I know for me it is easy to get caught up and do something an easy way without considering the safest or even safer way. Lots of thoughts and chance to think and reflect.

 

[HMH]

Thanks again everyone - yea, I'm pretty glad I wasn't injured too!

More great ideas upthread as well - which is exactly what I was hoping would come of the thread, so thanks for all the suggestions/ contributions!

To answer a couple of the other comments/ Q's upthread - the cut in question was a straight "chop", (i.e. no sliding action), and the cut only made it ~3/16" deep into the material before it took off, so it wasn't a matter of pulling the blade out of the cut while it was still spinning. More reinforcement for just use other means for the cut in question for sure!

 

[pop-pop]

Here is another alternative for small parts that I use, a small Ryobi bandsaw with a Carter guide and a simple sled. A nice plus with the pricey Carter guide is that the OE guides are not used so you don't have to fuss with adjusting them. This is a 1/8" blade.

A cut in oak along a pencil line.

A cut along a knife line.

 

[tvrgeek]

A zero clearance fence for the miter makes it far safer for short bits. Just the microscopic wobble in the blade is enough to grab a cutoff. I have had short bits grab even with stopping the blade. Hooked on Wood shows how to make a fence with easy to replace center sacrificial sections.

TS or BS and sled of course safer.

 

[ScottM]

Glad this story has a happy ending. I cut small parts a lot and I use a small parts sled that Rockler sells for the TS.

Rockler Table Saw Small Parts Sled

Zero-clearance support reduces chance of small parts binding in the throat plate—ramp guides the off-cut away from the blade after cutting.

www.rockler.com

 

[Mark Johnson]

Glad this story has a happy ending. I cut small parts a lot and I use a small parts sled that Rockler sells for the TS.

Rockler Table Saw Small Parts Sled

Zero-clearance support reduces chance of small parts binding in the throat plate—ramp guides the off-cut away from the blade after cutting.

www.rockler.com

that is a very interesting design with the "fall off ramp".

 

[iclark]

Thanks for sharing your experience and thanks to those who chimed in analyzing things and giving suggestions. I am storing them all away for future reference.

FWIW, part of my sig on another forum is a quote from a few years back from a different safety thread. It struck home with me and I put it in my sig as a constant reminder to myself:
"The most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

 

[Rwe2156]

I know the thread is dead, but thought I’d add I’m using my bandsaw a lot more these days. The issue is cut quality, but a good blade can do a decent job.

 

[ArtVandelay]

I think the reason that tooth broke off is it's proximity to the expansion slot on the blade. It's right behind it. I think when the small piece moved, it got wedged, just by chance, in just the right place where the blade could flex enough to twist that tooth behind the expansion slot and break it off.

 

[Chaz]

I agree w/Mike that the piece is too small of the tool. I'd also check that dust collection shroud to see if lowering this creates enough suction to actually lift the piece of wood. That could lead to unintended consequences like you describe. Maybe try it with the saw off to see if the vacuum lifts the wood.

And I agree with creasman. That is just too small to be used on a saw like that. Too small for a lot of tools.

I'd put that on a 10" bandsaw - very carefully.

A piece of scrap Purpleheart like that, in my shop, ends up in the burn bin. Just sayin'

 

[Berta]

I wait For the blade to stop spinning before letting it raise. I learned from books. Before internet.