I have a 1986 unisaw # 34-802F. I saw a post by a guy with the same saw inquiring about dust collection for this saw. Would like to know what he has come up with, but can't find the post (or don't know how since I'm new to the site).
Dust collection
- Thread starter newshopcharlie
- Start date
I had a similar model when in ENC. I removed the louvered door and built a replacement that included a 4" dust port. Used foam board inside—1/4" plywood would work—and sloped it such that dust would fall towards the port.
I cut a ~3x5 opening in the bottom back and customized a sheet metal floor vent to connect to my DC for a clean-out. This does nothing for the dust coming off the blade and would not do it again if I could turn back the clock. I would just use front door and use a shopvac to clean out the sawdust. You'll need an over blade guard dust collection like the Beisemeyer blade guard or a Shark.
I have a few ideas I don't have time to try and most require lifting the top for the fab.
Now, if just trimming the edge of a board, not much helps. I have a hose with a flair on a magnetic base so it can pick up some of the spray. Some. Even with the overarm, it sprays sawdust.
'
I believe managing the airflow below the table is the critical issue. Remember, your motor needs airflow to keep cool. Also remember it is airflow, not vacuum, so sealing all the leaks is not an advantage.
One idea I have is to take advantage of the blade as a fan by positioning a very close ramp so the blade will "squeeze" the dust from the gullet as it passes.
Another idea is to make a shroud, and connect a source hose close to the blade side with the vacuum directly opposite so the airflow is across the gullets. Most OEM shrouds only pick up the dust the blade has flung from the gullet on edge. Not very effective with a hook angle as the blade hangs on to it too well.
A third idea is a focused ( compressor jet?) directly to the gullets below the top.
Even just moving the port with a large hose closer to the blade may help as it would reduce the airflow not across the blade.
I did put a sloped pan in the bottom of my saw so less dust drops out into the base and goes out the 6 inch port. Yea, big Clear View 5 HP cyclone.
If doing a long rip, and if there is clearance for my push sticks, the large tube SawStop overarm does a pretty decent job. Some of the overarms have too small of ports and hoses so there is not much volume of air.
I was going to put a hood on one of my sleds, but I almost never crosscut on the TS any more. My next idea was a sled with no rear fence and rails that guide the overarm over it. Most of my crosscuts I do in a miter saw so I have not gotten around to it.
Maybe some of this will help creative minds. I am concentrating on my BS as I rarely use the TS any more. Long rips and the overarm does pretty well.
Now, if just trimming the edge of a board, not much helps. I have a hose with a flair on a magnetic base so it can pick up some of the spray. Some. Even with the overarm, it sprays sawdust.
'
I believe managing the airflow below the table is the critical issue. Remember, your motor needs airflow to keep cool. Also remember it is airflow, not vacuum, so sealing all the leaks is not an advantage.
One idea I have is to take advantage of the blade as a fan by positioning a very close ramp so the blade will "squeeze" the dust from the gullet as it passes.
Another idea is to make a shroud, and connect a source hose close to the blade side with the vacuum directly opposite so the airflow is across the gullets. Most OEM shrouds only pick up the dust the blade has flung from the gullet on edge. Not very effective with a hook angle as the blade hangs on to it too well.
A third idea is a focused ( compressor jet?) directly to the gullets below the top.
Even just moving the port with a large hose closer to the blade may help as it would reduce the airflow not across the blade.
I did put a sloped pan in the bottom of my saw so less dust drops out into the base and goes out the 6 inch port. Yea, big Clear View 5 HP cyclone.
If doing a long rip, and if there is clearance for my push sticks, the large tube SawStop overarm does a pretty decent job. Some of the overarms have too small of ports and hoses so there is not much volume of air.
I was going to put a hood on one of my sleds, but I almost never crosscut on the TS any more. My next idea was a sled with no rear fence and rails that guide the overarm over it. Most of my crosscuts I do in a miter saw so I have not gotten around to it.
Maybe some of this will help creative minds. I am concentrating on my BS as I rarely use the TS any more. Long rips and the overarm does pretty well.
Here are a couple of threads to get some ideas:
Scott
The thought of the chips being carried over in the gullets is new to me. Not sure why they would choose to spray back on my shirt rather than up, or carry back down into the cabinet.
I pull the under cabinet sawdust out with a 4” collection hose and a little sheet metal duct inside to pull approximately from the center of the cabinet and just let the uncollected build up in the corners.
I’ve avoided an over arm collection hood as it seems like it would be quite inconvenient. Just been living with the spray.
The thought of the chips being carried over in the gullets is new to me. Not sure why they would choose to spray back on my shirt rather than up, or carry back down into the cabinet.
I pull the under cabinet sawdust out with a 4” collection hose and a little sheet metal duct inside to pull approximately from the center of the cabinet and just let the uncollected build up in the corners.
I’ve avoided an over arm collection hood as it seems like it would be quite inconvenient. Just been living with the spray.
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