Dust Collection

[SteveColes]

I'm sure everyone is familiar with the "standard" black ABS "Y" connectors , blast gates, etc. that you buy at every woodworking store.

The other day I was buying some pieces and wondering how to connect them easily and quickly. Someone showed me that if I took a piece of sch 40 PVC pipe, the ends of the black pieces would slip in the ends of PVC pipe in good friction fit. They actually had a piece of pipe to demonstrate.

I left the store with my fittings and went direct to HD and pick up a 10' (they wouldn't sell less) piece of 4" sch 40 pipe. Then I went home and cut a length for my first connection. Then I discovered that while the ends of a Y connector and a blast gate slipped right into the pipe. They were very loose. Not a friction fit and certainly not even close to be air tight.:eyeslam: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead:

So what's wrong, does HD's pipe have bigger inside dia. that the rest? Did I make a mistake about it being sch 40? Should I take up crocheting?:eusa_booh

Please help me:crybaby2: :crybaby2:

 

[HardRock]

IIRC, there are a couple diff species of 4" pipe at HD, there's the W&D foam core, solid thin wall and maybe one more. Technical names are probablt diff, but there are different types there.

 

[DaveO]

I think it is the SCH. 40 issue, like Gill said there is many flavors of PVC pipe at the BORGs. I would take your fittings in and see what type fit the best. Also duct tape is great for making a fit tighter. It's like the FORCE, it has a light side and a dark side and holds the world together :-D :-D
Dave

 

[DavidF]

I think it is the SCH. 40 issue, like Gill said there is many flavors of PVC pipe at the BORGs. I would take your fittings in and see what type fit the best. Also duct tape is great for making a fit tighter. It's like the FORCE, it has a light side and a dark side and holds the world together :-D :-D
Dave

Been there, done that!!

 

[Monty]

You probably picked up S&D pipe, which is cheaper and thinner walled. Incidentally, that's what I used. IMHO, you don't need the thicker stuff. It's heavier, harder to cut, and the critical inner diameter is smaller, which will result in a decrease in air flow. Since the ID is larger on the S&D pipe, it won't fit on the black plastic DC fittings. I just cut a small (about 3-4") piece of flex hose to bridge the gap, and use hose clamps.

Or... take a look at this pic:

If you have one of those coupling pieces that has a female friction fit taper on one end and a male threaded connector on the other end, you'll find that the threaded end fits nicely inside a 4" S&D pipe.



OR.... you could try this, and let us all know how it works! :mrgreen:

 

[SteveColes]

After doing a web search, I found out that it is schedule 20 pipe that I should have bought. It has a slightly smaller Inner dia than 40.

So off I went in search of 20 at both Lowe's & HD the ones in apex and the ones in Cary. Nobody had it. Each place I went they told another place they were sure had. So off to ACE and then to a Plumbing supply. No joy.:crybaby2: :crybaby2: :crybaby2: :crybaby2:
Oh, I did take one of the connectors with me to try the fit

So I guess I will take up crocheting :lol:

 

[D L Ames]

Man, that sucks Steve. Sounds like you need to break out the yellow pages and make some calls. I am not sure if I have seen schedule 20 at any of the places here in Fayetteville but I will keep my eyes open for it. In the mean time you may want to check this link for some additional info that might be of help to you.

D L

 

[SteveColes]

Man, that sucks Steve. Sounds like you need to break out the yellow pages and make some calls. I am not sure if I have seen schedule 20 at any of the places here in Fayetteville but I will keep my eyes open for it. In the mean time you may want to check this link for some additional info that might be of help to you.

D L

:neener:

 

[SteveColes]

If you have one of those coupling pieces that has a female friction fit taper on one end and a male threaded connector on the other end, you'll find that the threaded end fits nicely inside a 4" S&D pipe.......

Yes it does, thank you:icon_thum

OR.... you could try this, and let us all know how it works! :mrgreen:

I think I'll take a pass on this technique:lol:

 

[toolferone]

I have bought the sch 20 here at the Lowes near my store. It has been a while, but they did have it at one point.

 

[McRabbet]

Steve, I've used two methods using the white Sanitary & Drain (S&D) grade thin-wall, bell end pipe that you can buy at either Lowes or the BORG. 1) Using a hacksaw, cut a short length of the thin-wall PVC and cut 3" long longitudinal kerfs at right angles (a saw cut every 90 degrees) so pipe will pinch in; fit it over the blast gate and hold with 4" SS tubing clamp; then tape with duct tape. 2) Better solution, make your own blast gates that are self cleaning and use PVC couplings on each side for tight fit.

For an tight fit with flexible lines, I determine inside or outside circumference of gate with a strip of copier paper an inch wide (wrap it inside or outside and mark length of strip where overlapped). Cut strip to marked length and wrap it around a 3-4" length of Schedule 40 "foam core" pipe and mark both ends of strip. Cut this chord section out of the pipe on a band saw, holding the piece vertically on the table. Then, moving the piece around to cut from the inside of the pipe in that vertical position, cut a series of bandsaw kerfs on the inside every 1/4-3/8" around the inside perimeter to a depth of 3/16" (about halfway). Squeeze the pipe until the open chord ends meet, clamp with a tubing clamp and glue with PVC cement and you have the desired connector piece.

Rob

 

[HardRock]

I'm sure you covered this base, but just in case.............


At most all the borg's I've been in, the thin wall pipe has always been in the outdoor section with the garden stuff and not located inside with all the other plumbing stuff. Depending upon which associate may be helping you, they may not know that there is other "pipe" than what's in the plumbing section.

 

[jtdums]

I used the s&d pipe from borg and found that i could create a "gasket" with wraps of electrical tape around my blast gates fitting so they fit snuggly into the s&d pipe without leakage. I used a few self tapping sheet metal screws to afix them to the pipe. The blast gates that I went with were the metal ones that were a bit more expensive, but I didn't like the feel of the plastic. Not a perfect fix, but cheaper and firmer than using flex pipe. I'll try to get a pic soon.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Steve, I don't have a solution to your blast gate problem, because I make my own, but if you haven't purchased your piping yet I recommend you NOT use sched 40. As others have said use S&D (sewer and drain). While S&D pipe is not much cheaper than sched 40 the price of fittings is much different. My mains are 6" S&D and the diff between 6" S&D fittings and 6" sched 40 fittings is enough to take your breath away- for a 6X6X6 wye- $12+ for S&D, but $24+ for sched 40. I haven't updated my web site with my new DC rig but can send you (or post in a few days) some pics of homemade blast gates that work well.

Oh, and what size DC do you have? You may want to think about going with 6" mains, especially if you think you might upgrade to a bigger DC or add more tools someday.

Also . . . I have an old cyclone I built, based on the original Wood Mag plans but which I improved on with the addition of a neutral vane and spriral inlet ramp that is free for the taking- ya gotta pic it up in Washington- free shop tour included:-D. (Pics available). I made new one (Pentz design) for my new shop.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Steve, I've used two methods using the white Sanitary & Drain (S&D) grade thin-wall, bell end pipe that you can buy at either Lowes or the BORG. 1) Using a hacksaw, cut a short length of the thin-wall PVC and cut 3" long longitudinal kerfs at right angles (a saw cut every 90 degrees) so pipe will pinch in; fit it over the blast gate and hold with 4" SS tubing clamp; then tape with duct tape. 2) Better solution, make your own blast gates that are self cleaning and use PVC couplings on each side for tight fit.

For an tight fit with flexible lines, I determine inside or outside circumference of gate with a strip of copier paper an inch wide (wrap it inside or outside and mark length of strip where overlapped). Cut strip to marked length and wrap it around a 3-4" length of Schedule 40 "foam core" pipe and mark both ends of strip. Cut this chord section out of the pipe on a band saw, holding the piece vertically on the table. Then, moving the piece around to cut from the inside of the pipe in that vertical position, cut a series of bandsaw kerfs on the inside every 1/4-3/8" around the inside perimeter to a depth of 3/16" (about halfway). Squeeze the pipe until the open chord ends meet, clamp with a tubing clamp and glue with PVC cement and you have the desired connector piece.

Rob

You can also hang the pipe vertically, attach some weights to the bottom. then heat it with a torch a few inches from the bottom. Once heated the pvc will get rubbery and start to stretch and neck down.