Craigslist Impulse Buy
- Thread starter Gary_C
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One of the myths associated with scroll sawing is that a person has to have a high dollar saw to be able to create a scrolled piece. You can create nice scroll sawed work from a low end saw--it's a good way to get involved in a very rewarding and satisfying form of woodworking that doesn't require a large investment in power machinery and tooling. Many people start out with a low dollar saw, and may eventually upgrade, according to their interest, and desires, to a higher quality saw.
That table will definetly clean up, and you can make nice fretwork pieces on the saw. I can't tell from the picture, but will the saw accept plain end blades, or does it use only pin end blades? Pin end blades require a much larger access hole when doing interior cuts in a fretwork pattern, thus limiting finer detail work, while plain end blades use a very small access hole. That needs to be taken into account when selecting a pattern for the item you wish to make. I bought a Craftsman scroll saw many years ago that took the pin end blades. I made a clock of my own design that resembled an antique one cylinder engine with the cast iron flywheels, and was quite happy with the result. I had no knowledge of blade types or patterns available at that time, I just wanted to make wooden pieces that were best cut on a scroll saw.
The table is cast iron on your Delta saw. I would use a sanding block to sand off the rust, then use a product such as TOP SAVER, or something similar. That an be applied and scoured into the top with a 3M scour pad, then when dry, buffed off with a cloth. You can also use Johnson's Paste Wax. You want the table to be smooth and friction free.
Good luck, and happy sawdusting!
There are quite a few scrollers on the forum who will be happy to lend advice, and help--just give a shout.
That table will definetly clean up, and you can make nice fretwork pieces on the saw. I can't tell from the picture, but will the saw accept plain end blades, or does it use only pin end blades? Pin end blades require a much larger access hole when doing interior cuts in a fretwork pattern, thus limiting finer detail work, while plain end blades use a very small access hole. That needs to be taken into account when selecting a pattern for the item you wish to make. I bought a Craftsman scroll saw many years ago that took the pin end blades. I made a clock of my own design that resembled an antique one cylinder engine with the cast iron flywheels, and was quite happy with the result. I had no knowledge of blade types or patterns available at that time, I just wanted to make wooden pieces that were best cut on a scroll saw.
The table is cast iron on your Delta saw. I would use a sanding block to sand off the rust, then use a product such as TOP SAVER, or something similar. That an be applied and scoured into the top with a 3M scour pad, then when dry, buffed off with a cloth. You can also use Johnson's Paste Wax. You want the table to be smooth and friction free.
Good luck, and happy sawdusting!
There are quite a few scrollers on the forum who will be happy to lend advice, and help--just give a shout.
I found a few helpful comments about the Delta SS200 here:
Delta SS200 Scroll Saw Opinions
OnlineToolReviews.com - Delta 16" Variable Speed Scroll Saw Review
For me, ease of changing blades and low vibration are the most important features of a scroll saw. The Dewalt DW788/Delta 40-690 would be a logical upgrade path, but those are in the $200-300 range at normal used market prices.
So I don't think it is a bad find for $50 including the delivery. Plus you will be able to re-sell it for the same amount, so no harm done. My first scroll saw was also a $50 Craigslist purchase, and you definitely got a better saw than I did!
Delta SS200 Scroll Saw Opinions
OnlineToolReviews.com - Delta 16" Variable Speed Scroll Saw Review
For me, ease of changing blades and low vibration are the most important features of a scroll saw. The Dewalt DW788/Delta 40-690 would be a logical upgrade path, but those are in the $200-300 range at normal used market prices.
So I don't think it is a bad find for $50 including the delivery. Plus you will be able to re-sell it for the same amount, so no harm done. My first scroll saw was also a $50 Craigslist purchase, and you definitely got a better saw than I did!
I noticed the vibration as soon as I turned it on! Well...we'll see how it works. My immediate need is to trim some pen blanks for turning...I was hoping to do this at home without having to drive half an hour to get access to a table saw.
I suppose you don't learn anything if you don't try something...and I've learned something about scroll saws already!
I suppose you don't learn anything if you don't try something...and I've learned something about scroll saws already!
bolt it to the bench. if it still vibrates bolt the bench to the floor.
is the floor stable????? if you have to chase it around the room unplug it and put it back on CL.
One suggestion,
Order some Flying Dutchman blades. They are the same price as the blades at the big box stores, but they are much smoother cutting. I bet some of the vibration you are seeing will go away with good blades. I get mine here:
Mike's Workshop selling Flying Dutchman brand fret and scrollsaw blades
Order some Flying Dutchman blades. They are the same price as the blades at the big box stores, but they are much smoother cutting. I bet some of the vibration you are seeing will go away with good blades. I get mine here:
Mike's Workshop selling Flying Dutchman brand fret and scrollsaw blades
I cleaned up the machine yesterday...and installed a new blade. Cut some blanks from some ash stock I had...cut the blanks about 1/4" thick. I wanted to copy a wooden fork that I like to use when I cook. Three or four cuts...long gentle curves. Should be simple.
The first cut started fine...then all he77 broke loose. The blank stated shaking...noise and rattlling...I hit the kill switch to find the blade pulled out its the housing and was all bent.
I don't think I had the blade installed properly.
Back to the instruction manual to see what I did wrong.
There were supposed to be some special wrenches for blade installation that didn't come with the kit. So I just used allen wrenches....they seemed to work.....not sure what i did wrong...
The first cut started fine...then all he77 broke loose. The blank stated shaking...noise and rattlling...I hit the kill switch to find the blade pulled out its the housing and was all bent.
I don't think I had the blade installed properly.
Back to the instruction manual to see what I did wrong.
There were supposed to be some special wrenches for blade installation that didn't come with the kit. So I just used allen wrenches....they seemed to work.....not sure what i did wrong...
What a nice offer...and I wish I could do it but this is one of those weekends where I won't have a spare minute to breathe. I would enjoy it.. but maybe later in a couple weeks.
I did get the saw back together and did some cutting last night after that first incident. I just held the wood tight to the table and cut slow. I think I was expecting cutting action similar to a table saw...and the ash is hard so slow and steady seemed to be the ticket.
I think I have some softer wood scraps to try which may help me get the feel for the action of this little saw.
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