Convert to 220?

[jamie]

Hi All-

I am finally getting around to add some outlets to my shop rather than relying on cord swapping.

My 18" bandsaw and 1.5(?) HP Dust Collector are both pre-wired for 120v, but can be wired and run 220v.

Is there any real reason/benefit to switch them? It is more work, and more cost (outlets cost more, breakers cost more, etc.)

Thanks,

-jamie

 

[Mt. Gomer]

So, the answer is maybe/maybe not.... It won't save you any money on your electricity bills and it won't give you any more power. There's some debate but I think that tools seem to start up a bit quicker and they seem to bog down a bit less. Again, I've got no emprical evidence to prove it, just seems a bit snappier out of the hole if you know what I mean.

The biggest reason I switched my tablesaw/bandsaw and will switch my jointer to 220 is to lower the amout of amps drawn by my tools. My shop has a 60A sub panel. There's probably enough headroom there that I don't have to worry about tripping it however by switching to 220 I pretty much cut the draw of the bigger machines in half. Soo, if I happen to have my dad over and we're doing some assembly line work with two machines running and the DC going with the lights on and the ventilation fan running and while all that is happening the air compressor (which I don't yet own but will have eventually) decides to kick on and top itself off... well, if that were to happen we'd still probably be ok... but now we'll definitley be ok.

Anyway. If it's a not a big deal to run a few outlets 220 I'd personally do it (if you're running new outlets anyway there isn't much cost difference). You'll get the added benefit of already having it in place if, in the future, you decide to by a larger machine that requires it. If for some reason it is a big hassel or larger expense you'll be just fine with 110.

The actual conversion at the tool is quite easy.. just swap a few wires per the diagram and swap out the plug. 15 min per tool tops...

Trav

 

[Bas]

Travis covered most of it. Rewiring a 110V tool to 220 offers no advantage in power, no savings in electricity. Sometimes, people perceive 220 as delivering more power because they're usually using a dedicated outlet, not a shared 110V outlet that has 6 lights, a TV and a toaster on it already and is on the other side of the house from the panel.

If you're out of 110V outlets, then adding a 220V outlet and converting the tool makes sense. You're freeing up a 110V outlet, and if you ever go to a tool that only runs on 220V, you're already set.

 

[junquecol]

Consider using "multi wire branch circuits." With these you get the best of both worlds. From one double pole breaker, you get two 110's, and a 220. I use this system in my shop. One leg of the circuit passes through a sensor that controls DC. This means that one of the 110's, andthe 220 operate the DC automatically. No searching for a remote that I can't find.

 

[ptt49er]

I've been able to recently "test" the difference. I had two identical saws in my shop at the same time. One was stock wired for 110v, the other had been switched over to 220v. Each saw was plugged into a circuit rated for 20amps, with no other loads on that circuit.

The saw running on 220v started up much, much faster than the one plugged into 120v. If I get the chance, while they are still both in the shop, I'll try running them through some rather tough cuts and see if I can tell a difference.

But I do know that any tool I get that can be wired for 220, will be.

 

[jamie]

I've been able to recently "test" the difference. I had two identical saws in my shop at the same time. One was stock wired for 110v, the other had been switched over to 220v. Each saw was plugged into a circuit rated for 20amps, with no other loads on that circuit.

The saw running on 220v started up much, much faster than the one plugged into 120v. If I get the chance, while they are still both in the shop, I'll try running them through some rather tough cuts and see if I can tell a difference.

But I do know that any tool I get that can be wired for 220, will be.

If you get a chance to test that, I would appreciate it.

Thanks for all of the replies!

 

[chesterboyd]

This has pretty well been answered, but let me put in 2 cents more.We wired a one horse shaper from 110 to 220 some years ago and it sure has improved the speed we can feed into it without bogging down.Some people say it doesn't make any difference but We are convinced that it does.Anyway----why not do it?:gar-La;

 

[Mt. Gomer]

The saw running on 220v started up much, much faster than the one plugged into 120v. If I get the chance, while they are still both in the shop, I'll try running them through some rather tough cuts and see if I can tell a difference.

But I do know that any tool I get that can be wired for 220, will be.

See, I knew I wasn't crazy. That's what I thought too but I never was able to have two tools side by side to prove it. Just seemed snappier when I hit the switch.

 

[ptt49er]

See, I knew I wasn't crazy. That's what I thought too but I never was able to have two tools side by side to prove it. Just seemed snappier when I hit the switch.

LOTS snapper!! It's almost like they have different motors in them.

Now to find something thick and dense to cut.

What would be a good test? I know I'll use the same blade. Both will be on a 20amp circuit with no other loads. I'll do my best to use the same feed rate. What else should I consider as to keep this fair? I might even try to find a digital video recorder so you can see and hear the difference at start up.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

lots snapper!! It's almost like they have different motors in them.

Now to find something thick and dense to cut.

What would be a good test? I know i'll use the same blade. Both will be on a 20amp circuit with no other loads. I'll do my best to use the same feed rate. What else should i consider as to keep this fair? I might even try to find a digital video recorder so you can see and hear the difference at start up.

8/4 ro!

 

[ptt49er]

I know I have some 4/4 WO...but I don't think I have any 8/4 left. At least not pieces long enough to do a fair test with.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

I know I have some 4/4 WO...but I don't think I have any 8/4 left. At least not pieces long enough to do a fair test with.

Heh... joint 'em and glue 'em up man! Come on, gotta be a real test!

 

[ptt49er]

Now that's something I might be able to do!

Too bad 2x4's are soo soft!

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Now that's something I might be able to do!

Too bad 2x4's are soo soft!

Yep. but 4/4 ain't gonna cut it if it's a decently powered saw, would sail through in either winding I'd expect. 8/4 at a good tempo might bog it down a bit.

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>> The saw running on 220v started up much, much faster than the one plugged into 120v.

The explanation for that is the reduced amperage draw on 230 volts. The amperage is 1/2 of the 115 amperage. This means there is less voltage drop during the high amp start up phase. Also, relative to the gauge of the wire, in most cases, the wire is greatly oversized for the reduced amperage on 230 volts. This also means there will be less voltage drop under high amperage conditions.

Now the point is that no one is doing any work when the motor is starting up. So, there is no advantage to a faster start, so who cares? Once running, the power is exactly the same under each voltage.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

>>> The saw running on 220v started up much, much faster than the one plugged into 120v.

The explanation for that is the reduced amperage draw on 230 volts. The amperage is 1/2 of the 230 amperage. This means there is less voltage drop during the high amp start up phase. Also, relative to the gauge of the wire, in most cases, the wire is greatly oversized for the reduced amperage on 230 volts. This also means there will be less voltage drop under high amperage conditions.

Good explanation Howard, thanks! So the bog down test should be the same for both saws right? Or will the minimized voltage drop help in recovery?

>>> Now the point is that no one is doing any work when the motor is starting up. So, there is no advantage to a faster start, so who cares? Once running, the power is exactly the same under each voltage.

Probably is none (other than non performance advantages as metioned above), but it sure is satisfying on some gut level when it spins right up and purrs at ya.

Trav

 

[woodnick]

One thing I didn't see dicussed is wire size. To do a side by side test the wire will have to adjusted to the distant vs Amp draw vs size

 

[Mt. Gomer]

One thing I didn't see dicussed is wire size. To do a side by side test the wire will have to adjusted to the distant vs Amp draw vs size

I don't know. I'd bet most of us wiring out shops will use a 20 amp breaker for most of our tool circuits (220 and/or 110) and that requires 12G wire (even if the tool itself is no longer pulling anywhere near that much). So for a real life test you'd want both machines on the same wire size wouldn't you?

 

[Joe Scharle]

If there's any difference in a convertible motor's performance in this scenario it is due to line loss. If the primary drop is so long as to show a difference, then the drop should be 240 to a sub panel in the shop. Running drills, fans, routers with this line loss will create a brown-out situation on these tools too. Since motors will always try to maintain rated RPM, they will draw more and more amps as the voltage goes lower. 120V does not travel well past 50ft, whereas 240V is OK up to 200ft. All this assumes wire size is the same.

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>> So the bog down test should be the same for both saws right?

Not quite, as the motor approaches full amperage draw, the 115 volt motor will slow down first. Again though, the issue is with the gauge of the wire. Relative to the amperage of motor, the wire on the 230 volt motor is significantly oversized so there is less voltage drop as amperage increases. If you oversized the wire for the 115 volt motor to the same extent, there would be no difference in performance.