Can this door be saved? Looking for help in Apex

waitup

New User
Matt
I'll agree with others in recommending replacement. I would actually recommend fiberglass instead of steel though. It won't dent or rust like steel will. Also, pay the extra for composite jambs. The bottom of the jambs always rot and composite will prevent that.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
I'll agree with others in recommending replacement. I would actually recommend fiberglass instead of steel though. It won't dent or rust like steel will. Also, pay the extra for composite jambs. The bottom of the jambs always rot and composite will prevent that.
Replacing with fiberglas is the best option here.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
You could repair that door, but while that’s happening you will be without a door. Or you could just buy a door unit and replace jamb and all.
Oh, I don't know that being without a door would be so bad this time of year. When I was a kid my dad had a neighbor that wanted a 'jalousie' door, one with tempered glass louvers that could be opened, AKA a "Florida Door". We HAD one on our front door until he took it off and installed it on the neighbor's house. Had a bedsheet over the opening for a couple of days.
But back to the issue at hand, You may find prices for an entire door unit make it a very viable option for you.
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
I’ll add my voice to those saying to take a close look at replacing the entire door and frame.

If the door is in really rough shape, the frame and threshold are usually rotted already. Take a thin screwdriver and probe-even if the paint looks good.

I would also encourage you to replace the lock set with a double throw deadbolt. Habitat usually has them used for cheap if you have somewhere to get them rekeyed.

-Mark
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
Corporate Member
If you want a cheap temporary solution you could…
- Use a clamp or ratchet strap to pull and hold the door square.
- Screw a thin sheet of wood or even sheet metal over the window opening (or even the whole door).
This would get you by if you needed time to get a new door. It would also help you figure out if the jamb needs work. The extra weight added to the door will show you how solid the jamb/frame is. If it sags after squaring the door, you have a problem. I would not be surprised if you found the door frame only had one 2x4 on each side.

If you change to a steel door, your jamb will need to be able to support it. I’ve seen entire walls shake when a heavy steel door is closed. Oh, make sure you use at least one 3” long screw in each hinge so it’s anchored to the frame.
 

1075tech

Tim
Senior User
If it were mine, I'd take the door off the hinges to make it easier to put in a dumpster. Then use a flat bar, assuming the frame is nailed into the opening, and take the frame out. Optionally, especially if it's screwed in, a sawzall works well.

Repair any damaged/rotted wood and put a new pre-hung unit in.

When I did this many years ago as a side gig, I almost always used ThermaTru fiberglass doors.

Plumb it, square it, shim it and use 3" deck screws to secure it. Replace the hinge screws with 3" as well. 3" on the strike plates for the lock too.
 
Just an FYI - that is a "half lite" door, and those doors cost at a minimum of $500. Having someone install it would cost between 400-600 dollars. I had a door replaced a few years ago, as I didn't want to do it myself. It was a pre-hung door (inside the jam already). Doors typically come in standard sizes, so I think you have to measure inside distance to find the width, but there are tons of videos on this.
 

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