Can I use this piece of Cherry for a drawer front?

[KurtB]

Good morning, I'm building a small Shaker table using cherry. I have a piece of cherry that I'm considering for the drawer front. (photo below)

It has some figure to it that I'd be able to center nicely. The drawer is 3 1/2 inches high and the rails above and below are 3/4 inch. All will come out of the same piece of wood to match the grain pattern.

The question has to do with the fact that this particular piece of wood is dead center of the tree as you can see by the end grain photo. I missed it when I picked up the lumber. The red line in the center doesn't extend into the wood. Not sure where it came from.

The rest of the stock winds up pretty much rift or quarter sawn.
The drawer front will be joined to the drawer sides with half-blind dovetails. I'm concerned as to whether the piece will cup, or try to cup and crack due to the joinery used.

So I thought I'd get the opinion of some of you more experienced woodworkers as to whether to use this piece or just head over and pick up another piece of cherry that would be more stable? I'm thinking since it's only 3 1/2 inches and joined with the dovetails, it might not move that much? Also, right behind the figure in the center of the piece is a small, shallow knot on the back side. Probably the reason for the ring in the center on this side. Don't know how that might figure in?

Any input you guys have would be much appreciated. Thanks very much.

 

[JimD]

As long as it's dry I would not hesitate to use it. With a good finish on all sides any moisture variation will be slowed and reduced and I don't see why it should be particularly unstable. I have never had much success predicting which wood will be more stable based upon the growth rings, part of the tree it's from, etc.. I know wood from trees that were leaning and wood from limbs will not be stable but how do you know this looking at the board? Maybe it's wide enough you can see the width of growth rings on both sides of the tree but I rarely have boards that wide.

I just ignore grain patterns and just look for grain direction to be longitudinal in the piece. My drawers work. I seem to get more twist in the drawer sometimes by the way I glue up than from wood movement. I now think it is more important for the drawer to be flat to a flat surface than that all the gaps are completely closed in the dovetails.

 

[BKHam]

structurally it will likely be fine. once you dovetail this board, there will be quite a bit of resistance to cupping.

I pay close attention to grain patterns from a visual standpoint in legs, tops and in drawer fronts of my furniture. aprons may be a place where i'm more flexible. when i first started making furniture, budget decisions led me to ignore or make decisions with grain selection that i almost always regretted. I'm not the biggest fan of this bullseye grain pattern. In cherry and this board in particular, i don't mind it so much. It can be much more prominent in the oaks.

I did a quick google of Christian Becksvoort's projects. he works almost exclusively in cherry and he uses boards like the above.

 

[KurtB]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback.
I'm thinking this piece would work fine now, but my thoughts run along the lines of what you said Bradley. The top and two side aprons are all straight grained. Back doesn't matter. I'm just wondering if the drawer front would clash with the rest or if it would stand out a a feature?

I did see a couple of Shaker tables on Beckvoort's site and he's got straight grain on the drawers.
Could look pretty cool, could also ruin the flow of the whole piece.

 

[BKHam]

I prefer straight grain generally and straight grain cherry is sublime. Context is key though. If you have wide boards then you have no choice then to use boards like this. If the boards are narrower then you can be more selective.

 

[creasman]

Should be fine to use. It's not actually cut through the center. If it were the end grain would show as quarter-sawn. This board is plank sawn.

With the drawer front being only 3-1/2" the likelihood of shrinkage or warpage is very low.

 

[JohnnyR]

You'll be fine as above. If you're concerned about stability on a drawer front, especially with highly figured wood, you can always re-saw it and laminate it on the front of the drawer.