Bowl Gouge Grinding Help

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Ed Fasano

Ed
Senior User
I have a sense that I know what I’m doing wrong, but I’d be most grateful for some experienced guidance.

My efforts to put a 50-degree bevel on a new bowl gouge have yielded what I’ll call a scalloped sweep, wherein the bevel is something other than uniform at the leading edge. It almost as if I’ve created some ears on each side of the tip’s center. I’m hoping that the image provides a recognizable depiction of the problem. I think a may be simply letting the middle of the gouge spend too much time on the grinding wheel and that re-grinding the sides (only) will correct it. Am I on the right track?


For the record, I’m using a Wolverine jig with their (original) Vari-Grind with an 8”, 1,750 RPM grinder. The Vari-grind leg is set at 23-degrees (to the gouge shaft) and the protrusion from the jig was 2”. The distance of the V-arm socket from the grinding wheel was set by the Kirk DeHeerprocess for a 50-degree grind, which is about 6".

Thanks!
Bowl Gouge 2.jpg
 

Dee2

Gene
Corporate Member
I have a sense that I know what I’m doing wrong, but I’d be most grateful for some experienced guidance.

My efforts to put a 50-degree bevel on a new bowl gouge have yielded what I’ll call a scalloped sweep, wherein the bevel is something other than uniform at the leading edge. It almost as if I’ve created some ears on each side of the tip’s center. I’m hoping that the image provides a recognizable depiction of the problem. I think a may be simply letting the middle of the gouge spend too much time on the grinding wheel and that re-grinding the sides (only) will correct it. Am I on the right track?


For the record, I’m using a Wolverine jig with their (original) Vari-Grind with an 8”, 1,750 RPM grinder. The Vari-grind leg is set at 23-degrees (to the gouge shaft) and the protrusion from the jig was 2”. The distance of the V-arm socket from the grinding wheel was set by the Kirk DeHeerprocess for a 50-degree grind, which is about 6".

Thanks!
View attachment 21566
Best video I've found on sharpening bowl gouges with the Wolverine is on the Thompson Tools web site. You can print out a template for a 60 degree grind where you lay the vari-grind tool on the page and set the stub's angle. Not hard to draw your own 50 degree triangle and do the same thing. He even talks about grinding down those ears.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
I won't get into the geometry as it sounds reasonable and you have the sources to double check it.

You've guessed at the real answer- take care of the sides first while avoiding the tip.
After you get the sides the way you want, then just touch up the tip, it won't take much at all.

BTW- Do not try to use in the condition you've shown here, even small "ears" will cause you heartache DAMHIK
 

aplpickr

New User
Bill
Definitely spend less time in the center. The opposite problem of a pointed tip can occur when not enough time is spent at the tip.
 

Mike Mills

New User
Mike
This short video by John Lucas helped me a lot.

[video=youtube;M9G16ylEZHQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9G16ylEZHQ[/video]
 
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