best way to get 1/2 , 3/8 and 1/4 matterial

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

this might sound like a stupid question but I am more looking for workflow information

how can I spend the least amount of time and waste the least amount of material when when needing thinner stock

example needing 1/2 material if 4/4 = 1" then this would not be thick enough to get 2 pieces 1/2" think out of but would I need to use 5/4 or even 6/4 to have enough material to resaw and plane

would you get one side flat and then resaw or resaw and then start flattening

basically what is the best workflow to be the most efficient with the bandsaw jointer and planer to be easy on them and not waste material

thanks for any help

I want to make 1/4" material for cutting Christmas ornaments
I need to make lots of 1/2" cause I am trying to duplicate a portable desk my grandfather had in WWI

thanks

 

[CrealBilly]

this might sound like a stupid question but I am more looking for workflow information

how can I spend the least amount of time and waste the least amount of material when when needing thinner stock

example needing 1/2 material if 4/4 = 1" then this would not be thick enough to get 2 pieces 1/2" think out of but would I need to use 5/4 or even 6/4 to have enough material to resaw and plane

would you get one side flat and then resaw or resaw and then start flattening

basically what is the best workflow to be the most efficient with the bandsaw jointer and planer to be easy on them and not waste material

thanks for any help

I want to make 1/4" material for cutting Christmas ornaments
I need to make lots of 1/2" cause I am trying to duplicate a portable desk my grandfather had in WWI

thanks

Actually 4/4 refers to HARDWOORD 1 1/8" thick rough sawn lumber that will dress out to 3/4" thick. 5/4 will dress out to 1" thick, 6/4 to 1 1/4, 8/4 to 1 3/4 etc....

If you go to the store and buy a SOFTWOOD (SPF) 1x6 it actually measures 3/4 x 5 1/2" dressed. But it's called a 1x6 because that's what it measured when it fell off the sawmill.

In order for a hardwood board to be a 1x6 (3/4 x 5 1/2 dressed) it needs to be cut to 1 1/8" thick and 6 1/8" wide.

Hardwood is cut thicker at the sawmill than softwood because it shrinks more as it dries in turn hardwood logs yield less and the lumber weigh more than softwood.

I would say buy 8/4 or 12/4, joint a face and an edge, then run through a bandsaw and slice off the thickness you want.

 

[Joe Scharle]

My workflow goes like this:
Smooth both sides of whatever thickness that will yield twice my desired thickness, plus 1/8" per side. For 2 - 1/2" pieces, I start with a 1 1/4" piece.
Resaw as closely as possible to my desired thickness plus 1/16" to 1/8" max.
Plane the freshly cut side to desired thickness.

If you don't trust your setup or yourself...just resaw it a little fatter.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

Thanks Jeff that helped me with some of the missing links

so with a piece of 8/4 I should be able to get 2 - 1/2" pieces and if I am lucky maybe 1- 1/4" piece

 

[CrealBilly]

Thanks Jeff that helped me with some of the missing links

so with a piece of 8/4 I should be able to get 2 - 1/2" pieces and if I am lucky maybe 1- 1/4" piece

It's all pretty much depending on the blade kerf of your band saw and how true it cuts after one face and side are jointed. Factoring in blade kerf and with my setup I always cut an 1/8 over my desired thickness and width just to give me myself a little wiggle room for the planer and sander. 3/16 over would be safer, but I like danger, now Joe on the other hand must really like danger re sawing 1/16 ~ 1/8 max over :gar-La; Either Joe lives dangerously or he is one heck of a craftsman - I'm leaning twords the latter.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

yea trying to figure out how much over I should start with is also very helpful.. Thanks

I have the woodslicer blade on my rikon and that is a pretty small kerf

 

[Gofor]

As for work flow, I would suggest you start with the jointer: Get one side flat and one square edge.

From there it is to the bandsaw to slice off your rough thickness, and then to the thickness planer. No need to thickness plane until you have a board close to your final dimensions with a flat side. Thickness planer blades are expensive and hard to sharpen, so I minimize their use where I can.

After making the bandsaw slice, you need to evaluate the surface for the next slice. It may pay to run it through the jointer again to smooth it up and flatten any waviness. If is fairly flat and true, you can just slice the next piece, but need to allow for clean-up of 2 sides instead of just one.

The hard choice is the first one: Which side to flatten first on the jointer. I say this because some boards have dips, twist, cupping, etc. and depending on the sawyer, may be tapered, either length-wise, width-wise, or both.

I do not have a power jointer, and start the process with hand planes. I flatten the face with the least amount of defect(s). If it is not tapered, i will usually flatten the inside of any cupping, as that side is easiest to remove twist and cup. However, if there is a deep dip in the saw cut, I usually start with the opposite face if I can't just cut that section out.

JMTCW

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