Best method to refurb a morse taper

[Phil S]

I have been doing a fair amount of drilling on my lathe. I have a drill chuck attached to a #2 morse taper and that is inserted into the tail stock. The drill chuck spun a few times and has scarred the internal morse taper in the tail stock. Not sure if I just did not have it installed tight or possible the male MT was too soft as it too is scarred.

What is the best way to repair this ??

 

[chris_goris]

http://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n:256295011,p_n_feature_browse-bin:2638841011

 

[nn4jw]

If it's not scored too deeply then an 8-flute no. 2 morse finishing reamer from Grizzly will take care of it. They also carry a 6-flute roughing reamer if the score is too deep for the finishing reamer. T10289 and T10291 are the Grizzly part numbers. If you don't already have it you'll need a 1/2 inch square tap handle too.

 

[chris_goris]

surprisingly, the ones on Amazon are cheaper!

 

[Roy G]

Could you get a new tailstock ram? You have to be careful messing around with reamers. It's too easy to remove to much and find your taper is too deep for your insert. The shoulders of the chuck might hit the end of the ram before the taper is fully seated is the taper is too deep. Also, if the internal taper is scored, the only reaming needed would be to remove any raised areas. You might want to check with a machinist, if you have one handy.

Roy G

 

[KenOfCary]

I'd be interested in your solution to this problem as some of us might encounter it as well. I've had the drill chuck slip slightly on the tail-stock and usually keep a firm grip on it myself (whether that is a good idea or not is also up in the air - Am I trying to protect metal at the expense of a hand?)

You obviously solved the problem as you drilled 150 light saber blanks this weekend with Dirk's help.

Solution (or workaround) please.

 

[Phil S]

I'd be interested in your solution to this problem as some of us might encounter it as well. I've had the drill chuck slip slightly on the tail-stock and usually keep a firm grip on it myself (whether that is a good idea or not is also up in the air - Am I trying to protect metal at the expense of a hand?)

You obviously solved the problem as you drilled 150 light saber blanks this weekend with Dirk's help.

Solution (or workaround) please.

I will be reaming the tailstock and replacing the drill chuck assy. To get thru the crunch I used sandpaper on the male and not so gentle hit with a mallet

 

[Jim Wallace]

Phil, this is what I would suggest: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/90/3651/TaperMate-Morse-Taper-Cleaner?term=no. 2 morse taper

You don't really need to take out all the scratches, you just need to be sure that any burrs or other roughness that would damage another tool are removed. This will do it, or you can wrap a small piece of fine wet or dry sand paper around it and use it the same. I'd avoid taking much metal from the inside of your tail stock ram.

 

[KenOfCary]

I have one of those taper cleaners - it works well for getting sawdust and any grease or finish out of the taper, but I'm not sure it would actually repair any scored metal.

Great for cleaning and de-gunking though.

 

[Glennbear]

No first hand experience but I have heard of folks using valve grinding (lapping) compound. Allegedly a dab provides enough "bite" to make up for a sloppy fit.