Best Glue and Wood Filler

[chris_goris]

Now I just need to solve my wood filler problem.

Plastic wood is terrible in my opinion... very hard compared to the surrounding wood when dry. and doesnt take stains very well. If I need to fill something I use Durhams water putty and mix sawdust with it. I use it more as a binder than a filler typically.

 

[koslonc]

A tip I have found useful for filling brad or pin nail holes is to shoot the nails through a small pieces of masking tape. Then fill the hole and remove the masking tape once dry. This ensures that the filler is only in the hole and not on the surrounding wood. I typically use a product called Timbermate wood filler. It's available in several hardwood colors and has a nice working consistency.

 

[JohnnyR]

For most things I use Old Brown Glue, which is hide glue plus urea. This gives it a longer open time and less viscosity at lower temperatures. To liquefy the glue you can just heat the glue in a travel mug with hot tap water, rather than needing a glue pot. Other aforementioned benefits of hide glue still apply, with the exception that I don't think you can make rubbed joints. It's great stuff. Titebond also makes a hide glue/urea mix that I do not have experience with.

Rubbed joints work with HG just fine.

 

[Jeff]

A few thoughts...

1. Don't wipe it off with a damp rag, that just dilutes the glue and smears it around the area so a finish doesn't take very well. Let the squeeze out set up for about +/- 30 minutes and it'll get kind of rubbery. Gently scrape it off with a chisel or scraper. Let it dry some more and repeat, if necessary. Now, maybe a damp rag for a final clean-up if you wish but usually that's not needed.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/hot-to-handle-glue-squeeze-out/

2. I don't know that you need to switch to hide glue but it's an option to consider for specific reasons like authenticity for a reproduction, reversibility for repairs, veneering, etc. Dan's references are a good start and here's a few more to supplement those.

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/index.php/old-brown-glue-videos

3.

I felt I was better not even trying to plug up the holes with filler then filling and trying to stain afterwards and leaving the blotch on the wood.

Now I just need to solve my wood filler problem.

You solved it already. No filler = less hassle and less fussiness = a happy camper. You didn't say how offensive and visually obvious the cosmetic blemishes are to both you and the casual observer wherever they're visible on the piece. How about powder post beetle holes at regular intervals as a design element? :wconfused: