Thank you kind sir - will do!Hank, call me later today. After 6 before 9.
I have a couple of motors laying around and just might have something in the 1740 rpm range. I gotta look.
Band Saw FPM
- Thread starter Hmerkle
- Start date
Just thinking...WWTD ( What Would T Do...
)
I would want to restore - and modernize a classic like that. That would mean finding a motor and VFD - like are commonly found on modern variable speed wood lathes. This would allow you to have a variable speed saw - while maintaining torque at lower speeds - so you could cut virtually all materials - from balsa wood to, to plastics, to metal. Yes, it will cost a little more - but not as much as you might think.
Use Searchtempest.com to do a nationwide search of Craigslist. As well E-bay often has such on it. VFDs can be bought from providers that will program them for your needs.
T
)I would want to restore - and modernize a classic like that. That would mean finding a motor and VFD - like are commonly found on modern variable speed wood lathes. This would allow you to have a variable speed saw - while maintaining torque at lower speeds - so you could cut virtually all materials - from balsa wood to, to plastics, to metal. Yes, it will cost a little more - but not as much as you might think.
Use Searchtempest.com to do a nationwide search of Craigslist. As well E-bay often has such on it. VFDs can be bought from providers that will program them for your needs.
T
GREAT idea, but... I do not have 220 in the garage!!!Just thinking...WWTD ( What Would T Do...
I would want to restore - and modernize a classic like that. That would mean finding a motor and VFD - like are commonly found on modern variable speed wood lathes. This would allow you to have a variable speed saw - while maintaining torque at lower speeds - so you could cut virtually all materials - from balsa wood to, to plastics, to metal. Yes, it will cost a little more - but not as much as you might think.
Use Searchtempest.com to do a nationwide search of Craigslist. As well E-bay often has such on it. VFDs can be bought from providers that will program them for your needs.
T
I know...Well....shucks....
I have had the discussion with a few members and the box is on the inside wall one wall away from the garage, and I am a 24 foot slab away from where I want / need the power!Sounds like a Christmas wish....."Santa....all I want for Christmas is 220 in my shop...." Who knows - if you are a good boy all year......
Do you have the “fiber terrorists” in your neighborhood? Maybe one could moonlight boring a hole under the slab and add orange flex.
I am pretty sure I have scared all of them away.
There was a group selling something - people in the 'hood were complaining the next day or the next week...
But it must be clear that I will not tolerate it - since they walked by the front of the house while I was working and on the other side of the house later, and never stopped, never waived... nearly seemed to find something interesting on their shoes as they walked by?! LOL
Or celebrity : Hannibal Teesquare! LOL
A slower motor and larger pulley would be better, but Hank can use a 2” pulley if he switches to a belt designed for that eg a cogged belt or a flat ribbed belt or…
Note that some belts need a different pulley style other than the ubiquitous v-belt.
-Mark
I ran mine through the ceiling.
I see a comment about start up. Do pay attention to the belt manyfacturer specifications for minimum sheave diameter. A lot of woodworking machines violate the spec and so you have to over-tighten the belt to prevent slippage on startup as well as it not running smoothly and runs a bit hotter while overstressing the bearings. Sometimes this is the only way to get clearance ( table saw, jointer) but no excuse on a drill press. Again, multi-rib belts have an advantage here as well. Unfortunately, buying new multi-rib sheaves is not cheap.
Yea, belt design is a pet peeve of mine. Basic engineering ( read the freaking specifications)
Yea, belt design is a pet peeve of mine. Basic engineering ( read the freaking specifications)
Speaking of specifications ... if you'd like to dive in you can ID the belt cross section here,
then check Gate's recommendation for minimum pulley diameter, shown below. The chart came from here.
then check Gate's recommendation for minimum pulley diameter, shown below. The chart came from here.
Great chart, and also remember the difference between SAE and Metric belts. Most of our newer machines ( read that as Chinese) use metric series. Close but not the same. One big difference is SAE belts size is the "running size" about 2/3 up on the belt. Metric belts measure the outer circumference.
Gates, Goodyear, and Continental are trustworthy. Odd sizes can come from D&D power and though seem a little stiff, run fine. I guess Dayco are OK. Used them on cars but not machines. I could not get cogged (Gates AX series) in the size for my Harvey table saw and had to get D&D. I can really tell the "set" when changing blades as the arbor won't stay where I turn it. I see Harvey switched to multi-rib on their newer saws. Smart. I think Powermatic and Laguna do as well. Saw Stop of course.
There is a lot to belts. Read the Gates WEB. But once you figure it out and write down what you need, easy.
Oh, when I looked at the spec for link belts, it was also around 2 inches, I think that has more to do with torque than flex.
.
Gates, Goodyear, and Continental are trustworthy. Odd sizes can come from D&D power and though seem a little stiff, run fine. I guess Dayco are OK. Used them on cars but not machines. I could not get cogged (Gates AX series) in the size for my Harvey table saw and had to get D&D. I can really tell the "set" when changing blades as the arbor won't stay where I turn it. I see Harvey switched to multi-rib on their newer saws. Smart. I think Powermatic and Laguna do as well. Saw Stop of course.
There is a lot to belts. Read the Gates WEB. But once you figure it out and write down what you need, easy.
Oh, when I looked at the spec for link belts, it was also around 2 inches, I think that has more to do with torque than flex.
.
Well, problem solved...
I found a Marathon motor at Tractor Supply in the clearance section
110 V - 1 1/2 HP - 1725 RPM
So provided Chris' calculations are correct - I just need a 7/8 I.D. pully with a 3.75 O.D.
Oh, and I need to dis-assemble the W-T bandsaw, invert the base, pull the old motor, figure out how to install the new one and get the right belt, and design a belt tensioner... EASY! LOL
I found a Marathon motor at Tractor Supply in the clearance section
110 V - 1 1/2 HP - 1725 RPM
So provided Chris' calculations are correct - I just need a 7/8 I.D. pully with a 3.75 O.D.
Oh, and I need to dis-assemble the W-T bandsaw, invert the base, pull the old motor, figure out how to install the new one and get the right belt, and design a belt tensioner... EASY! LOL
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