Adding Additional Outlets and Lights in Shop

[Trent Mason]

Hello All,

Thought I'd ask the brain trust for some advice on adding some additional outlets and shop lights. To be honest, electricity is not my area of expertise, although I do have some experience in wiring things for work (mainly repairing/resoldering connections). So perhaps, the best advice is to point me to a good book on the basics of electricity and wiring or maybe it's easy enough that I can do it without that.

I just replaced the original light fixture with one of those LED "strip" lights that's supposed to last for 20 years or whatever. While that light is definitely bright, it is still a little dark around the edges of the shop. So I thought about adding at least two more lights (one on each side) and maybe a third along the back wall. As of now, there is only one switch, that operates the main light. I'm not sure if it would be better to add an additional switch for the other lights as sometimes it may not need to be blindingly lit up in there. :gar-La; As for access, the panel is on one of the walls of the garage and there is attic space above the garage, so I could crawl around up there as needed. As of now, I have two outlets, one on each side (plus one above the garage door). I would like to add at least one additional outlet on the back wall (which is an internal wall) and possibly one more outlet on each side. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Trent

 

[Glennbear]

Although I had prior wiring experience when it came time for me to wire my shop and add a sub panel I thought a reference book was needed. I found this one written by a NC electrician. Some of the other ones are written by desk jockeys and contain much misinformation, so much so that in a couple cases the CPSC had them recalled Rex gives thorough directions that are very safe and "above code". http://books.google.com/books/about/Wiring_a_House.html?id=anbv0BWVfeQC

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Trent, I did the same thing Glenn did when I built/wired my shop. I bought a book on basic wiring from one of the BORGs and familiarized myself first. It really wasn't very difficult once I understood the basics.

 

[Roy G]

If you are going to run wire for outlets, I would recommend putting outlets in every 6 feet. It's nice not to have to run an extension cord all over the place. And you could put in a couple 220 outlets for power tools.

Roy G

 

[FredP]

Trent, i have a book you are welcome to borrow. just give a shout.

 

[rcarmac]

I wired up the lights and outlets for my shop. It sounds like it wouldn't be too hard, especially for adding the lights. I would recommend going ahead and adding them on a separate switch. If the new switch is located adjacent to the existing switch, it will be pretty easy. If you are just adding more outlets so you don't have to run drop cords, you should be fine. If you are adding more outlets so you can run more tools all at the same time, you might want to check your breaker, especially if that breaker controls the lights as well. You might look at adding another breaker into the box (if space is available) for your new outlets. If you need someone's opinion on what and how, let me know. I can run over and at least give you my 2 cents.

 

[FredP]

I wired up the lights and outlets for my shop. It sounds like it wouldn't be too hard, especially for adding the lights. I would recommend going ahead and adding them on a separate switch. If the new switch is located adjacent to the existing switch, it will be pretty easy. If you are just adding more outlets so you don't have to run drop cords, you should be fine. If you are adding more outlets so you can run more tools all at the same time, you might want to check your breaker, especially if that breaker controls the lights as well. You might look at adding another breaker into the box (if space is available) for your new outlets. If you need someone's opinion on what and how, let me know. I can run over and at least give you my 2 cents.

good advise here. as a side note.... never wire the lights and outlets on the same circuit. the last thing you want is to be running a tool and have the breaker trip causing the lights to go out too. saws tend to come to a stop slowly. almost like forever when you are suddenly in the dark. I invested in an emergency light so if I loose power I aint in the dark.

 

[Glennbear]

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2010...structions-Shock-or-Fire-Hazard-to-Consumers/

 

[aplpickr]

Do not have all the lights fluorescent. Fluorescent hum or flutter can create strobe effects and stop the action of moving blades. That is why I have a twenty year supply of incandescents squirreled away. Mount some outlets above 48", that way stored plywood will not cover them.

 

[Phil S]

Trent, No need to buy any lights. I just happen to have some extra lights - some very nice t8 fixtures. Just let me know what you need.

 

[Trent Mason]

Trent, No need to buy any lights. I just happen to have some extra lights - some very nice t8 fixtures. Just let me know what you need.

Phil, thanks so much! I'll send you a pm. Glenn, thanks for sharing the link to that book. It looks like I can read it online or print it out. You all have really come through (as always). Thank you all for your advice! :icon_thum

 

[FlyingRon]

Margy had solartubes installed in my shop. I was a bit leary at the time but of course she was right. Having natural light into my otherwise windowless shop has been a great help.

 

[Len]

I just put several LED "Can" lights between the rafters on each side of the garge door in my garage. Makes a big difference in being able to find things at night when the door is in the up position. I'm seriously looking at replacing the original fluorescents with LED fixtures to get rid of the flicker.

 

[judgment]

Thanks for that link. I'm getting ready to add some lighting in my basement and that is just what I needed.

good advise here. as a side note.... never wire the lights and outlets on the same circuit. the last thing you want is to be running a tool and have the breaker trip causing the lights to go out too. saws tend to come to a stop slowly. almost like forever when you are suddenly in the dark. I invested in an emergency light so if I loose power I aint in the dark.

After a mental shudder at the thought of standing in front of a still-running bandsaw in pitch darkness I tattooed this on my forehead. I definitely would have wired everything on the same circuit if I hadn't read this. Thanks.

 

[ehpoole]

Thanks for that link. I'm getting ready to add some lighting in my basement and that is just what I needed.

After a mental shudder at the thought of standing in front of a still-running bandsaw in pitch darkness I tattooed this on my forehead. I definitely would have wired everything on the same circuit if I hadn't read this. Thanks.

I've always advocated taking that advice one step further and install 3-4 emergency lights in the shop (on the same circuit as your lights). This ensures you are never in the dark, even if the power goes out...no fumbling in the dark for the power switch on your tablesaw, etc. It also allows you to safely move about in the shop if power is lost...and avoiding those inevitable trip hazards.

For a night owl like myself, it really is a no-brainier addition since they sell for less than $30 each and are much cheaper even then a few stitches in the ER and well worth the added peace of mind.

 

[rcarmac]

As another option to the emergency lights, you can replace the ballast in most of the standard Fluorescent fixtures to an emergency ballast. They run $40-$50 compared to $30 for the emergency lights, but you don't have an extra light to mount and wire up. All you do is just disconnect the old and install the new ballast in 1 or 2 fixtures depending on the shop size and location. If you are buying new fixtures, you can go ahead and by one with the emergency ballast included.

 

[ehpoole]

As another option to the emergency lights, you can replace the ballast in most of the standard Fluorescent fixtures to an emergency ballast. They run $40-$50 compared to $30 for the emergency lights, but you don't have an extra light to mount and wire up. All you do is just disconnect the old and install the new ballast in 1 or 2 fixtures depending on the shop size and location. If you are buying new fixtures, you can go ahead and by one with the emergency ballast included.

Emergency ballasts are very much an option, particularly where aesthetics matter (enter my my mother!). Just be aware that while the upfront costs are only somewhat greater, and installation nearly the same in terms of ease, replacement batteries (often NiCd packs) tend to cost a good deal more than the batteries (lead acid) in the standalone emergency lights.

I'm not sure as to the typical life of the NiCd battery packs are off hand (I would guess 5-8 years), but the typical replacement interval for the lead acid batteries is every 4-6 years (5 typical, but I have had some last to 8 years).

Whichever way one goes it pays to have multiple emergency lights since they can and do fail when batteries fall flat, but never all of them at the same time since individual battery life tends to vary greatly.