18 or 16 gauge nailer for trim

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
For household trim, baseboards, crown, casings etc., should I have a 18 or 16 gauge nailer? My 22 is not quite as large as it should be.

Any preferences on brands? PC is what to expect fore the price, but WD, Senco, Bostich etc. ? Only my occasional use, not a full time contractor.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
I have had a PC 15 ga angled nailer for years, itll drive a 2-1/2 nail. and as short as 1-1/4 (I think) 18 is too light for architectural trimwork, not cabinet trim. ( I edited this post, originally said it was 16, havent looked at in a while.)
 
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tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Thanks. I figured that, but wanted to check.

If I go dirt cheap, I might trust the WEN over the ones I have not heard of. "Real" ones are about 5 times the price.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I retrimmed my entire house, base, casing, and crown because it had a mixture of trim and I did not like any of it. This is not all the trim I've done but it is the most extensive. I installed several pre-hung doors during this process. For about 95% of the fasteners I used my cordless 18 gauge brad nailer made by Ryobi. I have a 16 and 15 gauge nailer as well as a 23 gauge pinner. I used all of them at various points. But for the vast majority of fasteners, 18 gauge works well (holds plenty well enough) and makes a smaller hole easier to hide during paint prep. I also paint the trim before installation, touch up the nail holes and any damage, and apply another coat of paint after installation (also filling the gap between casing and jambs with caulk).

To those suggesting 18 gauge is not big enough I suggest you try removing trim installed by with 18 gauge brads and see what fails. I think you will find that the trim almost always fails. The head of the brad pulls through or the trim breaks. 18 gauge pulls the trim as tight as necessary and holds fine for most situations. I used 2 inch 18 gauge brads.

I used 15 gauge nails installing window sills. I used sills that were an inch thick and I noticed the 18 gauge brads were not pulling it in tight enough to the window framing. So I changed to the heavier nails. I could have used a 16 guage, the more pointed nose of the 15 is just easier to get in place sometimes. 15 also holds a little bit better. But if the 16 gauge was handier at the moment, I used it.

On all the windows I put the casing under the sills with returns on it. I've picture framed it before but decided to do it the other way on this house. I used the 23 gauge pinner on the little returns.

I got prehung doors both with the casing installed and split casings and with traditional one piece jambs and separate casing (I prefer the latter but had to wait longer to get them). When the casing was installed it was installed with narrow crown 18 gauge staples. They make an ugly hole in the trim but hold really well. That is another option to using bigger nails where you need more holding. I think they put staples on the pre-hungs because they know most trim carpenters are going to hang the door by the casing without any blocking so it has to hold the door up. I am not that lazy and I don't like the staple holes in my trim so I prefer the traditional jambs.

This is already long so I will make one more point. I have nailers made by Bostitch, PC, Ryobi, Milwaukee, and Harbor Freight. For infrequent use and a pneumatic nailer my more recent purchases have been from Harbor Freight. They are much less expensive and work well. I prefer cordless to eliminate the compressor hassle but I can't justify cordless nailers for everything I do so I just have the 18 gauge and framing nailers in cordless. For a minimum setup, I would get an 18 and 16 gauge nailer from HF. Both would cost less than one nailer made by Bostitch. But if you must have only one, I would agree it should be a 16 gauge (unless you want to spend a little more and get a 15 gauge). I think two is a lot better because it will help make the trim look better but a 16 or 15 will install everything and an 18 won't.
 
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Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
For small, quick use I use the Ryobi Air strike 18ga/18v cordless nailer. Been pretty good and they have a 16ga as well. For bigger jobs I too have PC 16 ga, when I don't mind dragging out the compressor and airing up.Not worth it to me for the smaller stuff. Grab the Ryobi, pop in a battery and no wailing compressor and hose to drag around.
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
For hanging doors, base board, crown, chair rail I use 15 gauge nail gun, for light trim like toe kick, scribe molding, cabinet crown, light bar, skins, furniture base and alike I use a combination of 18 gauge 21 gauge and 23 gauge.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
I use 15ga mostly for heavier trim both interior or exterior. The 15ga gun with the angle head makes it easier to get into areas. I use it on hanging doors on the stile.
I have a 16 ga I use less but (tbh) probably based on what is in my hands at the time.

The 18ga door trim or thinner trim on the interior.
I use the 23 ga mostly to hold things while setting something up or holding something in place that just needs a little help
 
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bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
A factor can be what you're going in to. Remodeling can mean the fastener needs to go deep to get past drywall and other stuff. For this, the 15 gauge is my favorite. If the surface is solid wood, then the lighter fasteners will work fine. Shoe moulding is always a pain because of the angle but usually a long 18 gauge works fine. Having a full array of air driven tools can be a real asset.

1     airtools - 1.jpg
some of my most commonly used air tools above a door. Easily enough to reach the bottom of the tool and remove it from its slot although the older I get, the more I have to stretch a little.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Shoe is just a pain no matter what. I hate it. Band-aid for someone not redoing the base in the first place.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
My son bought a 1930s house. We wanted to keep the original built-up base mould. He absolutely needed shoe. I had to run several hundred feet of custom ogee oak for him to match existing throughout his house. The Senco 18 gauge SLP20 did a great job going through oak and into oak base. If you're punching into big box spongewood, about anything will work.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I usually just pin shoe to base with 23 gauge pins. It doesn't take much to hold this little moulding in place.

I don't like it much. I have it installed in my entire first floor now but I haven't put it in most of my second floor. I put the flooring down on the second floor so the base covers the gap. Doesn't really need shoe. But I will probably do it someday just to be consistent.

I had a 18 gauge and 16 gauge pneumatic for years but wanted a 15 gauge when I was putting in my window stools. Instead of getting a cordless 15, I bought a little cordless compressor. It's Scott's favorite brand, apparently, but there are others. Works very well for little jobs. It has a small tank so I can even drive flooring staples with it -- very slowly.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
...... Instead of getting a cordless 15, I bought a little cordless compressor. ..... Works very well for little jobs. It has a small tank so I can even drive flooring staples with it -- very slowly.
I too bought a 1 gallon cordless compressor: a Ryobi One+ at a clearance at Direct Tools (for about 10% of retail cost). I had the battery system already, as well as the pneumatic nail guns.
It works great for small trim work - without dragging out the big heavy 'portable' compressor that will handle most anything. It is small, light, and easily portable. It offers a lot of the advantages of a cordless gun, but without the cost or weight. It allows use of the much smaller/lighter pneumatic guns, with the dis-ad of the connected air hose.
 

waitup

New User
Matt
Sounds like the ship has sailed, but here's my $0.02 anyway. I have yellow 15 gauge angled and 18 gauge straight battery guns. I am a contractor, but mainly use these on personal stuff. I do doors with the 15 gauge and use the 18 for all else. As has been mentioned it is a smaller hole to fill. Once the piece is caulked in and painted, I haven't had a failure yet. Battery guns shoot plenty fast and not having to deal with the hose is a blessing.
 

LoveTheSmellofSawdust

New User
Cheap Azz
my $0.000001
I have a cheap HF 20 gauge(I think) combo nailer and stapler. I have used it for shoe molding a some ceiling molding. Much easier that hand nailing and quicker, esp at odd angles. My only grip is that it often leaves a slight indent from the metal lock piece. name of this is ???, it keeps the nailer from firing unless on a hard surface.

Speaking of of nailing at odd angles. As a youth I just loved toe nailing a 16 g nail upside down.
My folks decided to add on a 2 car garage with a rec room and loft. They keep the carport and added from there. Being an underage youth I was drafted to do a bunch of the framing and all the T30 siding. I would have loved a nail gun for that project.

Sorry for the long reply.
 

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