Strop leather

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danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member

Mike
That should take care of all your strop needs.

Along the lines of stropping, I have made narrow boards 12" long x 3" wide with the contour of my gouges on the edges. I rub some compound on the edges and use them to burnish my carving tools by hand. It helps to hone the micro burr off and touch up the edge on the straight side of the tools. Quick and easy.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Man that stuff is expensive for cowhide. Is their anything special about it or is it really just dehair and tanned cowhide?
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Man that stuff is expensive for cowhide.

Mike's Amazon link price was $19.95 from Tandy Leather. 50"l x 3"w.

Is this sharpening stuff like a holy grail and sharp can never be sharp enough but the metal is really polished and shiny after a strop?

1. Used the diamond stones, ceramic stones, etc up to 8,000-10,000 grit.

2. Who needs a strop and why? :dontknow:

3. I don't shave with a chisel or plane iron and I doubt that most pieces of wood give a hoot either.
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
Mike's Amazon link price was $19.95 from Tandy Leather. 50"l x 3"w.

Is this sharpening stuff like a holy grail and sharp can never be sharp enough but the metal is really polished and shiny after a strop?
No it isn't.

1. Used the diamond stones, ceramic stones, etc up to 8,000-10,000 grit.
If you bought ceramic stones up to 8k you can skip the strop with compound.

2. Who needs a strop and why? :dontknow:
I use a strop every day. You won't find a ceramic stone with a curve for a carving gauges. If you give it a try for a few dollars not 80 bucks for a stone, you might like it. It works very well for touch up and go.

3. I don't shave with a chisel or plane iron and I doubt that most pieces of wood give a hoot either.
The strop is easy. You pull the chisel across the leather a few times and go back to work. If it wasn't so easy and fast I would pull out my diamond stones and hone. The leather is quicker.

Dan
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
I agree, and your response doesn't promote a discussion about the pros and cons of a strop?

I don't use a strop but I'm curious about why folks use them. Maybe I'm missing an advantage that I should try. :confused:

Try it, you will like it. Running a chisel or gouge or whatever you are using across a strop with a little compound takes no more than ten seconds and keeps you working with a sharp tool. Do it often and you almost never have to go back to the diamond stone
 
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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Mike's Amazon link price was $19.95 from Tandy Leather. 50"l x 3"w.

Is this sharpening stuff like a holy grail and sharp can never be sharp enough but the metal is really polished and shiny after a strop?

1. Used the diamond stones, ceramic stones, etc up to 8,000-10,000 grit.

2. Who needs a strop and why? :dontknow:

3. I don't shave with a chisel or plane iron and I doubt that most pieces of wood give a hoot either.

your statements sounded to me more like dismissal than real questions, maybe because my coffeemaker burned up this morning and my day has been very frustrating. Meaning maybe it is more me than you, so I will try to answer.

Sharpening is not a holy grail, it is simple mechanics/abrasive action to achieve a desired effect.
Really sharp /smooth edges glide through wood easier and cleaner. A highly polished edge lasts longer due to reduced friction and finer teeth on the edge. In use the microscopically fine teeth on the sharpened edge break down, bend over, and generally fail and dull. Super honing with polishing compound in the 20,000 to 30,000 grit range make a finer edge that gives a better, cleaner, smoother cut, makes the sharp edge last longer, etc.

You need a strop if you do very fine work with hand planes, chisels, carving knives, and other edged tools that benefit from an ultra sharp edge for reasons stated above. Stroping often between sharpenings will keep the edge sharp rather than the usual roller coaster ride of sharp to dull to sharp and dull again with variable success in each session.

If you can't shave hair easily and comfortably with your edged tools then you are exerting extra force to make a cut which bends the fibers before they are cut and could even be tearing rather than cutting the fibers. A super sharp chisel will make a polished slick cut on the end grain of softwood. As the blade begins to dull the end grain cut finish will appear matte, dusty, torn, and ragged. No, the wood doesn't care, but you should.
 
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Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I use DMT diamond stones in x-coarse, coarse, fine and x-fine. After I sharpen an iron or chisel to x-fine it will shave hair with a little effort. 8 to 10 swipes across a leather strop and green chrome oxide compound and it will shave noticeably better....truly razor sharp.

After a little bench use, a few quick swipes sharpens it right back up. Saves time on the stones and gives a better result.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
your statements sounded to me more like dismissal than real questions, maybe because my coffeemaker burned up this morning and my day has been very frustrating. Meaning maybe it is more me than you, so I will try to answer.

Sharpening is not a holy grail, it is simple mechanics/abrasive action to achieve a desired effect.
Really sharp /smooth edges glide through wood easier and cleaner. A highly polished edge lasts longer due to reduced friction and finer teeth on the edge. In use the microscopically fine teeth on the sharpened edge break down, bend over, and generally fail and dull. Super honing with polishing compound in the 20,000 to 30,000 grit range make a finer edge that gives a better, cleaner, smoother cut, makes the sharp edge last longer, etc.

You need a strop if you do very fine work with hand planes, chisels, carving knives, and other edged tools that benefit from an ultra sharp edge for reasons stated above. Stroping often between sharpenings will keep the edge sharp rather than the usual roller coaster ride of sharp to dull to sharp and dull again with variable success in each session.

If you can't shave hair easily and comfortably with your edged tools then you are exerting extra force to make a cut which bends the fibers before they are cut and could even be tearing rather than cutting the fibers. A super sharp chisel will make a polished slick cut on the end grain of softwood. As the blade begins to dull the end grain cut finish will appear matte, dusty, torn, and ragged. No, the wood doesn't care, but you should.

Coffee maker broke - oh my God i would.just stay in bed. I gotta have coffee to wake-up. Without coffee in the morning you might as well just #### in my cheerios because you already know Im gonna be a.mean ### SOB.
 
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Jeff

New User
Jeff
Thanks to all for the useful information. I have ordered the strop material and chromium oxide so I'll give it a shot. :icon_cheers

Mike, I wasn't being dismissive but maybe we were both having a bad hair day.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
Coffee maker broke - oh my God i would.just stay in bed. I gotta have coffee to wake-up. Without coffee in the morning you mighy as well just #### in my cheerios but you already know Im gonna be a.mean ### SOB.

I feel Mike's pain. I made a cup of coffee when I got to work yesterday. Finally got to drink it at 2:30. Yeah it was cold. No lunch either. That kind of day.
 

jfynyson

Jeremy
User
I know this thread is a few weeks old but I feel my question is relevant. I've been blessed to be able to get for my birthday and Christmas DMT plates, a honing guide, a set of Narex chisels, and a couple leather strops.

Questions:
1. One strop has the metal hanger thingy on the end. Is it best to cut this off and just wood glue the strop to a piece of hardwood or leave it on and glue to hardwood (so it acts as a true hanger for the wall) ? Does it matter or just get in the way ?

2. I saw a couple videos where the guy sanded the strop to rough it up a bit first then used mineral oil on it and once that soaked in he heated the strop a little and coated it in the green chromic oxide honing compound saying the heat helped open up the leather to accept the compound "better" and he loaded up the strop like this only the first use. Is all of this really worth it or recommended as a best practice ?

Thanks in advance !
 

JackLeg

New User
Reggie
Those of us old enough to remember when barbers used straight razors to shave faces and necks also remember those "razor strops" usually attached to the side of the chair. They weren't there for looks! A good barber would strop that razor almost every time between customers.

Not many on here know more about sharpening than Mike Davis.

:notworthy:
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Most carvers never let their chisels get so dull that they need to go back to the stones. They strop the minute things start to get dull and go back to work.

Chris Pye has good information on sharpening / stropping carving chisels (some of it is not free though.)
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I know this thread is a few weeks old but I feel my question is relevant. I've been blessed to be able to get for my birthday and Christmas DMT plates, a honing guide, a set of Narex chisels, and a couple leather strops.

Questions:
1. One strop has the metal hanger thingy on the end. Is it best to cut this off and just wood glue the strop to a piece of hardwood or leave it on and glue to hardwood (so it acts as a true hanger for the wall) ? Does it matter or just get in the way ?

2. I saw a couple videos where the guy sanded the strop to rough it up a bit first then used mineral oil on it and once that soaked in he heated the strop a little and coated it in the green chromic oxide honing compound saying the heat helped open up the leather to accept the compound "better" and he loaded up the strop like this only the first use. Is all of this really worth it or recommended as a best practice ?

Thanks in advance !

1) I wouldn't stress over the hook. If its handy to have keep it, if not remove it.

2) That sounds a little like ritual. Not sure it will make a big, if any difference to how well the strop works. You can use many compounds to charge the strop. The green stuff is good, jewelers rouge (red) is finer, and if you go to an auto-parts store you can by different grits of valve grinding compound that all work well. I have a few different strops charged with different compounds. Tend to use the green one the most.
 
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