Wooden Bathroom Vanity Countertop

[tri4sale]

So I want to replace the vanity countertop in my master bathroom. I was thinking of using the reclaimed mahogany I have, and wondering what finish would be good to use on it to protect the wood from water.

 

[mquan01]

So I want to replace the vanity countertop in my master bathroom. I was thinking of using the reclaimed mahogany I have, and wondering what finish would be good to use on it to protect the wood from water.

Waterlox, 3 coats. I have had this on my kitchen countertops, which are mahogany for 10+ years, still no issues

 

[FredP]

Waterlox marine. Several coats 1-2days apart.

 

[tvrgeek]

I would not. it is going to be wet a lot. Especially around the faucets. A kitchen counter is actually easier. Now, some folks have the patience to dry everything perfectly every time they use it. Not me. Solid surface, Granite, porcelain...

Maybe on a guest bath that is never used it is a worthwhile risk. Or, maybe do a "bar-top" pour over it.

 

[HITCH-]

Another +1 for Waterlox marine. I would opt for the satin finish over gloss.
Stop loss bags are great for Waterlox storage if you have leftover.

StopLossBag, 4 Pack Amazon.com

 

[tri4sale]

Waterlox marine. Several coats 1-2days apart.

website says "Do not use on interior projects or interior wood with direct sunlight." so not sure that should be used interior, wonder why they say don't use for interior projects.

 

[zdorsch]

I used waterlox original for my cherry vanities. One was a half bath that everyone used (pictures below) and the other was for the master bath. Half bath is going on 6+ years and master bath almost 3 years.

Both baths have a healthy lip around them, which has kept down on the direct water contact.

I did have to freshen up the half bath about 2 years ago. I think someone let bathroom cleaner sit on the finish because there were a couple of spots no bigger than a pencil eraser.

 

[FredP]

website says "Do not use on interior projects or interior wood with direct sunlight." so not sure that should be used interior, wonder why they say don't use for interior projects.

A bathroom vanity is going to see a lot of water. It makes sense to me to use a marine grade Finnish. It's not going to get a lot of sunlight in a bathroom.
Both bathrooms in my house are done with waterlox marine. 1 is 2 years old and 1 is 6 years old. Neither have needed touch up yet. I don't know why they said not for indoor use. Maybe just a CYA statement?

 

[rivens]

I used catalyzed varnish on my cherry vanity top. still looks good after 10 years.

 

[Graywolf]

website says "Do not use on interior projects or interior wood with direct sunlight." so not sure that should be used interior, wonder why they say don't use for interior projects.

I’d just use Waterlox original it’ll be fine. I work with several countertop manufactures that use just that type of finish with no issues. I average about 60 to 70 projects a year with about 10% of them using wood tops somewhere in the project. They all seem to be holding up just fine with happy customers.

 

[tvrgeek]

See, that's the difference. I expect my bathroom job to last 50 years or more, not 6 or 7. Not 10.

Post #7 sinks do alleviate one of the main standing water sources. But how much splash gets behind them? Even the Formica counters in my last house, the seal was not perfect and water got under the sink lip blistering, rotting, and molding the substrate. I can't imagine what kind of a cleanup mess things like these vessel sinks sitting on top of the counter would cause. Sopping up a splash from behind them!

 

[Robert LaPlaca]

website says "Do not use on interior projects or interior wood with direct sunlight." so not sure that should be used interior, wonder why they say don't use for interior projects.

Most marine finishes like Waterlox Marine and spar vanishes have a UV protectant and the varnish surface is physically softer and more compliant to allow for expansion and contraction of the exterior wood surfaces.

 

[gfernandez]

There is some very good advice here from members with hands on experience. Based on their recommendations, I would not hesitate to use waterlox if I had a wooden countertop. I know Phil Soper also built a wooden countertop for his house, but not sure what he used as a finish or how it has held up.

 

[Rwe2156]

Total Boat Gleam ++

 

[CJRedd]

I used three coats of ArmorSeal and have no problems

 

[Keye]

I think water is the least of your worries. Curling iron, finger nail polish remover bottle accidentally turned over and a plethora of other things women can not live without.

 

[CJRedd]

@Keye makes a solid point. My countertop is in a guest bath. Not exposed to the same stressors found in a full bath.

 

[Craptastic]

I'd still use waterlox but not the marine grade. Make sure you get all surfaces and edges (including the holes for the faucet and such) before you mount and caulk the top. Silicon caulk works better than any latex one will adhering to it if you rough it slightly with 120 grit where it will need to adhere just before applying. I'd do 3 or 4 coats for sure.

Chemicals may affect the coating down the road but they also affect many stone and artificial tops. But with a good wood top you can refinish it with a little effort and bring it back to new.

 

[Phil S]

Waterlox original Used multiple times over the last 50 years and zero issues