Planer, broke again. Follow up Question??

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
I recently posted for assistance in finding an input roller sprocket that had been discontinued on my Ridgid planer. The part was located and purchased. Installed and everything worked as before. Chain seemed a bit loose, but otherwise all was good. [I have no idea how tight the chain was new, should be now or was prior to the original break]

I started planing some rough cut 2x4 pine. I didn't realize that one end of the board was quite a bit thicker than the other and as it was pulled through it got stuck. I'm now assuming the strain on the input roller may be what broke the sprocket the second time around. The board was thick enough that it actually got caught on the frame of the planer. :mad: I started raising the cutting head as fast as I could, but it was too late and I have another break. This could be what happened the first time, but I honestly don't recall a board getting hung up.

So my question is:

Is this much more likely to be operator error than an issue with the chain and sprocket? The replacement sprocket was only about $30 bucks after shipping/taxes. Don't mind trying to find another set if above is basically operator error. But if it is more likely to be an issue with the machine I"ll just bite the bullet and look for something to replace it.

I'll say that I have ran a LOT of hardwood lumber through this planer in the last year and for it to break on pine was surprising to me, until I realized my own possible error.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:

cyclopentadiene

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User
I have a Dewalt planer but the concept is the same

Do you joint one face before running through the planer? If not, twists etc may be putting some extra strain on your planer.

After jointing, I generally lower the head to just above the piece and slide the entire length through without turning the planer on. I crank it down 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn just judging how much until the planer head touches the board. I generally test each piece before turning on the planer.

I then turn on the planer and run the board through. Sometimes I may need to turn 1/8 of a turn for the rollers to pull the piece through.

When I first started learning to use the planer, I tended to take off too much material. I have little patience but with a 3 head cutter, the finish is much better when removing very little material. I have never worked with pine or anything that soft so you may be able to remove more material with these woods.

Generally with cherry, walnut and hard maple, I only lower the blade 1/8 of a turn with each pass. I will run the upper face the same number of passes as was removed with the jointer. I then alternate sides until both sides are finished.

I also generally work with 8/4 material and these can get really heavy if they are long. I typically cut the piece to a few inches longer than the piece that I need as opposed to planing an entire 8' or longer piece of stock. I also use roller supports on the back end and hold the front, feed end

This may not be proper technique but it seems to work for me.
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
When planing rough boards, I usually check the thickness in multiple places over the length just to avoid this problem. This is my SOP when working with rough cut boards.
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
My $0.02: Sounds like operator error.

I have not heard of broken sprockets being an manufacturing (performance) issue with Rigid planers and the planers themselves get pretty good reviews.

BTW, when you say you 'broke the sprocket', I'm assuming it broke in half versus e.g. shearing off some teeth?

-Mark
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
The boards were tapered from end to end when they were sawn (by you?) so one end is thicker than the other. You started the feed with the thinner end and the planer locked up somewhere after starting. My opinion only.

"The board was thick enough that it actually got caught on the frame of the planer."

What?
 

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
My $0.02: Sounds like operator error.

I have not heard of broken sprockets being an manufacturing (performance) issue with Rigid planers and the planers themselves get pretty good reviews.

BTW, when you say you 'broke the sprocket', I'm assuming it broke in half versus e.g. shearing off some teeth?

-Mark
Yes, they both broke into. Im really leaning this way. My fault. Going to buy another set and be much more careful about checking both ends of the board before sending through.
 

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
The boards were tapered from end to end when they were sawn (by you?) so one end is thicker than the other. You started the feed with the thinner end and the planer locked up somewhere after starting. My opinion only.

"The board was thick enough that it actually got caught on the frame of the planer."

What?
Yes. There was a taper that I didnt notice and unfortunately I sent the thin end through first. The cut became deeper as it progressed through until it just didn't fit, got stuck and before I could raise the cutting head the sprocket snapped. At least that's what I think happened.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
I think it may be operator too.

I have a lunch box planer from delta that has gone though a lot of cherry and oak without issue (besides replacing the brushes—but this isn’t related). I have experienced the same issue with lumber and have yet to break it, but I’ll be more aware following your experience!
 

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